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Old 08-14-2019, 07:27 PM   #1107
marco1ca
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Originally Posted by NCtoBRZ View Post
I think the takeaway here is that it is likely a waste of time with a false sense of security to do an oil analysis or to drop the pan and check for excess sealant. Even if you find excess metals or silicone in the analysis or if dropping the pan reveals excess sealant... the dealership isn’t going to do anything about it unless the engine fails. Just drive the car and try your best not to stress over it. The work should be warrantied for a year, so just drive the car and if the engine blows... take it up with the dealership and hope for the best. The alternative is to get rid of the car if it is causing you stress worrying about it. It appears that many people are dumping their 13s in the for sale section of the forum...
Thanks for the input, however, definitely not stressing at all about it. It's my second car but I do want a supercharger and we all know where the blame will lie should something happen after that's installed. Therefore, looks like i'm just going to have to drive it a few thousand miles more and decide then.
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Old 08-14-2019, 08:40 PM   #1108
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Hey all! Just got my 2013 BRZ done just below 60k miles. Got the spark plugs changed while they did it. I got it back today and for some reason my car seems to randomly rev about 5000 RPM when shifting anywhere between 3rd and 6th gear and I reach about 2500 RPM. Did anyone gain this problem after they had the work done? E-mailed the service manager and am waiting for a response. Couldn't just turn around because they closed immediately after I left. Thanks ahead of time.
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:05 AM   #1109
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Hey all! Just got my 2013 BRZ done just below 60k miles. Got the spark plugs changed while they did it. I got it back today and for some reason my car seems to randomly rev about 5000 RPM when shifting anywhere between 3rd and 6th gear and I reach about 2500 RPM. Did anyone gain this problem after they had the work done? E-mailed the service manager and am waiting for a response. Couldn't just turn around because they closed immediately after I left. Thanks ahead of time.
I don't understand what you are saying -


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Old 08-15-2019, 04:39 AM   #1110
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Hey,

Having the same problems here after the recall. Drove only 800 miles ( cranckshaft , bearings,...)
Received detail from the garage and notice that the've used the spring-valve eg kit SU00308060. The instructions from Toyota says to use the spring-valve eg kit SU00308062.
Does anyone have any idea if there is a difference betweem them?
They've also used the 1207B seal packing instead off the 1217H sealant.
I have added the details of the work down below and some of the pics i have taken.
Maybe someone can tell me if the garage made a mistake because they wont repair the engine under waranty. And i am pretty sure they made a mistake. They havent even change the motor oil says on detail..
Attached Images
            

Last edited by ducati; 08-15-2019 at 05:18 AM.
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Old 08-15-2019, 05:10 AM   #1111
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Originally Posted by Alfrz91 View Post
The Third party inspection might be a good idea if you're able to. Not sure how you've been traversing the language barrier but there must be some sort of app to help with that. It sounds like they're doing everything they think they can do, which is cool, but definitely smart to have someone else inspect it(though thats likely out of your pocket probably?)
Yeah they are being overly nice now, i think its cause they realized and have admitted that they screwed up the coolant pipe which caused the overheating. Tomorrow they are delivering me a new Loaner (Direct to my house) because i complained about the current one, lol.

I have asked them what tests they have done to check if the engine did not receive any damage from the overheating, and they didn't answer me. Secondly, they refuse to send me pictures and still have not allowed me access to my car to check the engine myself, because it was moved from the dealer to the manufacturing facility in Thailand.

I am fighting for as much as i possibly can, not worried so much about the post recall damage but more worried about what engine damage could have happened due to the serious overheating. I told them the 10k 1 year warranty simply wasn't sufficient for the extra damage and stress caused on the engine.

The only reason i think they are being so nice is cause they realize that this car is almost $100k here, so they probably want to avoid any kind of claims for damage. A new engine i would assume to cost in the $20k range here.

Fingers crossed!

EDIT: I really want the pictures so i can possibly get some expert advice if there can be any visual assumptions of damage from either a Subaru dealer or my friends who own the 86 Garage in Thailand.

Last edited by Nilsd2; 08-15-2019 at 05:13 AM. Reason: More content added.
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:10 AM   #1112
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Originally Posted by ducati View Post
Hey,

Having the same problems here after the recall. Drove only 800 miles ( cranckshaft , bearings,...)
Received detail from the garage and notice that the've used the spring-valve eg kit SU00308060. The instructions from Toyota says to use the spring-valve eg kit SU00308062.
Does anyone have any idea if there is a difference betweem them?
They've also used the 1207B seal packing instead off the 1217H sealant.
I have added the details of the work down below and some of the pics i have taken.
Maybe someone can tell me if the garage made a mistake because they wont repair the engine under waranty. And i am pretty sure they made a mistake. They havent even change the motor oil says on detail..
The engine spun a bearing(s) only 800 miles after they worked on it and your picture shows signs of excess sealant that made it's way into the oil which would cause oil passages to clog. This is the classic scenario of failure outlined in this thread so I would certainly say it is HIGHLY likely that the engine failure is due to the garage who worked on the engine.
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:24 AM   #1113
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Originally Posted by ducati View Post
Hey,

Having the same problems here after the recall. Drove only 800 miles ( cranckshaft , bearings,...)
Received detail from the garage and notice that the've used the spring-valve eg kit SU00308060. The instructions from Toyota says to use the spring-valve eg kit SU00308062.
Does anyone have any idea if there is a difference betweem them?
They've also used the 1207B seal packing instead off the 1217H sealant.
I have added the details of the work down below and some of the pics i have taken.
Maybe someone can tell me if the garage made a mistake because they wont repair the engine under waranty. And i am pretty sure they made a mistake. They havent even change the motor oil says on detail..


Kind of looks like they contaminated the engine while removing the old packing. Toyota is also very specific about the use of TB1217H.

Any pictures of the oil pickup? I bet it’s full of packing.
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:36 AM   #1114
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Originally Posted by ermax View Post
Kind of looks like they contaminated the engine while removing the old packing. Toyota is also very specific about the use of TB1217H.

Any pictures of the oil pickup? I bet it’s full of packing.
Well i think they cleaned out the filters, they sent us the pics but looks like they are cleaned before. And i have no picture of the oil itself but i can ask them monday to check it... i have my doubts that they still have the oil..
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Old 08-15-2019, 11:31 AM   #1115
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Sorry to beat what may be a dead hrose here, but I've been reading about removing the oil pan and it sounds like a major PITA, will a dealer actually just drop it if you ask them to? They won't just drop it on they're own, without me asking, right?

Edit: cars in the shop, I'm about to call and ask if they have any new info, they've had it since yesterday morning, no clue if they've started on it yet or not but when i passed by late yesterday it wasn't in the spot the tow dropped it off at.

Last edited by Alfrz91; 08-15-2019 at 11:31 AM. Reason: add more info
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:56 PM   #1116
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Originally Posted by Alfrz91 View Post
Sorry to beat what may be a dead hrose here, but I've been reading about removing the oil pan and it sounds like a major PITA, will a dealer actually just drop it if you ask them to? They won't just drop it on they're own, without me asking, right?

Edit: cars in the shop, I'm about to call and ask if they have any new info, they've had it since yesterday morning, no clue if they've started on it yet or not but when i passed by late yesterday it wasn't in the spot the tow dropped it off at.
Your engine likely spun a bearing or two, so the dealer should be dropping the oil pan as part of the inevitable inspection/teardown/rebuild process of the engine.
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Old 08-15-2019, 03:31 PM   #1117
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Your engine likely spun a bearing or two, so the dealer should be dropping the oil pan as part of the inevitable inspection/teardown/rebuild process of the engine.
I'm moreso curious if they could possiblydrop it, clean it up and not say anything. they havent contacted me about anything yet. I'm assuming for the more 'thorough' inspection, they would ask me for authorization, right? They wouldn't just start doing a deep dive on the car if they weren't going to back for that. Basically I just wan't to know that I have that smoking gun.

The dealers been very nice thus far, other than trying to get a return call lol
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Old 08-15-2019, 04:05 PM   #1118
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Originally Posted by Alfrz91 View Post
I'm moreso curious if they could possiblydrop it, clean it up and not say anything. they havent contacted me about anything yet. I'm assuming for the more 'thorough' inspection, they would ask me for authorization, right? They wouldn't just start doing a deep dive on the car if they weren't going to back for that. Basically I just wan't to know that I have that smoking gun.

The dealers been very nice thus far, other than trying to get a return call lol
Sure, they could certainly drop the pan and try to cover up the evidence before showing or telling you anything. If you dropped your car off with what is likely a failed engine and you likely signed something when the car was left with them, they aren't under further obligation to notify you before every single step of the process. If the engine is knocking, dropping the oil pan is likely one of the first things that they will do to confirm that a rod bearing has spun. I wouldn't leave anything to assumptions. If you have a way to get to the dealership and they aren't returning your phone calls, just show up and clarify the inspection and repair process.
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Old 08-15-2019, 04:36 PM   #1119
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Sure, they could certainly drop the pan and try to cover up the evidence before showing or telling you anything. If you dropped your car off with what is likely a failed engine and you likely signed something when the car was left with them, they aren't under further obligation to notify you before every single step of the process. If the engine is knocking, dropping the oil pan is likely one of the first things that they will do to confirm that a rod bearing has spun. I wouldn't leave anything to assumptions. If you have a way to get to the dealership and they aren't returning your phone calls, just show up and clarify the inspection and repair process.

Actuuaalllyyyy because of how the process went with my car specifically(they had it towed from 100 miles away), I haven't signed anything. I thought the oil pan was a more complex process since it would have to be removed from sealant, then reattached. I'll be dropping by after work in the next hour for sure. It's entirely possible they haven't even touched the car yet.
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Old 08-15-2019, 05:46 PM   #1120
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I don't understand what you are saying -


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Sorry about the jambalaya of words. What I mean is that about a second after I have shifted into 3rd (or 4th, 5th, or 6th) and have released the clutch, the car revs about 500-700 RPM by itself then goes back to normal. (Apologies for putting 5k to 7k initially. Not sure where my head was at). Any insight?
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