Matching shocks with springs

[Ben_G]

Sorry if this is a basic question.... but I know that if you get stiffer springs, you should get stiffer shocks to match.

However, what I'm unclear about is how do you know that the shocks you get are properly matched to the new spring rates?

Is this why some shocks are adjustable, to accommodate a wider range of spring rates?

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by Ben_G

Sorry if this is a basic question.... but I know that if you get stiffer springs, you should get stiffer shocks to match.

However, what I'm unclear about is how do you know that the shocks you get are properly matched to the new spring rates?

Is this why some shocks are adjustable, to accommodate a wider range of spring rates?

Precisely. Single-adjustable dampers, which most are, adjust rebound (extension). This is so the damper can be adjusted to properly control a wider range of springs.

RaceComp Engineering did some test of the stock dampers and found them to be slightly over-damped for the stock springs. So you can go to a stiffer spring on the stock dampers without worrying about overpowering them. RCE figures their "Yellow" springs which are due out shortly should be right in the stock damper's sweet spot (called 65% Critical Damping).

[Ben_G]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Precisely. Single-adjustable dampers, which most are, adjust rebound (extension). This is so the damper can be adjusted to properly control a wider range of springs.

RaceComp Engineering did some test of the stock dampers and found them to be slightly over-damped for the stock springs. So you can go to a stiffer spring on the stock dampers without worrying about overpowering them. RCE figures their "Yellow" springs which are due out shortly should be right in the stock damper's sweet spot (called 65% Critical Damping).

So generally speaking, any aftermarket shock should be able to handle most aftermarket springs, unless you go stupid stiff (as you can with coilover springs, since they're all the same size)?

[Racecomp Engineering]

One thing a lot of people forget is that the amount of drop has a huge effect too. If you lower the car 1.5 inches, it's going to be difficult for any shock, OEM or aftermarket, to give you a good ride. Spring rates are very important too, but a huge drop (and 1.5 inches is huge) is handicapping things before you even get there.

- Andrew

[Ben_G]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

One thing a lot of people forget is that the amount of drop has a huge effect too. If you lower the car 1.5 inches, it's going to be difficult for any shock, OEM or aftermarket, to give you a good ride. Spring rates are very important too, but a huge drop (and 1.5 inches is huge) is handicapping things before you even get there.

- Andrew

Thanks Andrew... I'm only looking for a minimal drop at the most since I intend to drive my car year round...in the snow.... if my BRZ ever arrives!


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[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by Ben_G

So generally speaking, any aftermarket shock should be able to handle most aftermarket springs, unless you go stupid stiff (as you can with coilover springs, since they're all the same size)?

Generally, yes.

But like anything, there's good stuff, cheap stuff, and crap masquerading as good stuff. The problem with aftermarket dampers and springs (coil-overs mostly) is that people think that a stiff suspension means better handling, and that the stiffer the better. This is false 99.99% of the time, and 100% of the time when the car is street driven.

Unfortunately, it's still the general philosophy of most modders. So aftermarket companies will sometimes design springs and dampers to be as stiff as possible; because bigger numbers are better, right? They certainly sell better. Consider how many coil-over sets were available for this car from companies that never had an actual car to work with.

A problem I think this community is going to run into is a lack of strut options, just like the STI community. It's not very cost effective to develop struts for a single car. Especially when the modders tend to go straight to coil-overs. The good news is that the stock struts seem to be pretty good. So they should cover most sensible spring swaps.

But the coil-over market for this car is going to be a minefield. Stick to companies that use the products they sell, and stick to damper manufacturers that are known to make a high quality product.

Oh and $1K coil-overs are crap.

[ATL BRZ]

Cant wait for my Racecomp Suspension starter pack and I don't even have my BRZ yet! TWO MORE WEEKS!!!

[Echo]

<--- Completely new to tuning and suspension.

If I were to, say, lower my car about an inch, what would I have to do?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Echo

<--- Completely new to tuning and suspension.

If I were to, say, lower my car about an inch, what would I have to do?

A set of springs and an alignment is all you would need, but I would highly recommend a set of the front OEM camber adjustment bolts and something for the rear...either the WL rear camber bushing (cheap) or a set of adjustable rear control arms. You do end up with a little too much camber so it's good to dial it back a bit.

- Andrew

[JoeBoxer]

Where do you get the OEM camber bolts? I'm assuming its a STI part since i haven't seen them for the FR-S anywhere. I'm most likely getting Tein H Techs do you think they will be neccessary?

[Racecomp Engineering]

The subaru dealer has them...

We can include them with our RCE Yellow spring kit. I'm anal about alignment so I think they should be used.

[driver01]

I have a few questions but I am having a hard time wording them.
If you have a set of adjustable coilovers with a set spring. say or example the kw v3 with the springs that come with it. does it mean that there is a setting on the shock that is best for that particular spring, and all the other settings are in case you change the springs?
or still the best settings is subjective and down to driver preference.
Also what is the propper procedure for adjusting compression and rebound on coilovers ?

[atledreier]

Aother thing I though about is the progressive nature of some lowering springs, like the Eibachs. I've gone from linear to progressive on a different car (VW Passat estate) and loved the handling, but I'm far less convinced for a trackable car like the '86. Wouldn't the progressive nature mean that roll stiffness will change with bump and rebound for every corner and play havoc with balance? Seems an awful waste to ruin the incredible balance of the chassis for a 1" drop for aestethics.

[ZDan]

Never a fan of progressives. Once you get to the stiff part of the spring, you've already built up a head of steam on roll rate. Also, only the outside springs stiffen up, so the rates have to go up twice as much to mimic stiffer straight-rate springs. Better to go with a compromise (i.e., stiff for the street, soft for the track) straight spring rate IMO. Unless you aren't tracking it, in which case just stick with soft straight-rate springs anyway.