Failure After J02 Recall - Discussion Threads

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by humfrz

- now THAT is just waaaaaay too simple!





humfrz

You're right. I'm sorry.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by c.klingner

It only happens under load and as mentioned they already said 3-4 of the valves were loose and out of adjustment. A valve can tap a piston and not ruin the motor if it is barely tapping. This could however bend the valve ever so slightly and even though they fixed the valve lash and tightened them up the fact they are slightly bent would maintain the noise, as they could be sticking or not properly sealing the cylinder during compression.

I don't know who told you this(bolded) but I have never in my life heard of this happening without catastrophic failure shortly afterwards. The only way a valve can contact a piston is it is out of time, or they floated.

[RZNT4R]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I don't know who told you this(bolded) but I have never in my life heard of this happening without catastrophic failure shortly afterwards. The only way a valve can contact a piston is it is out of time, or they floated.

Seen it happen with an Audi 3.2 V6, chain tensioner failed on the right head and timing skipped. Under it's own power, struggling, I could hear tapping, turning the engine over by hand without spark plugs I would feel them nudge but the cylinders still had compression, I replaced the timing set and it ran like new for years and is still running today.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by RZNT4R

Seen it happen with an Audi 3.2 V6, chain tensioner failed on the right head and timing skipped. Under it's own power, struggling, I could hear tapping, turning the engine over by hand without spark plugs I would feel them nudge but the cylinders still had compression, I replaced the timing set and it ran like new for years and is still running today.

Yikes! That is crazy lucky though now that you mention it I have heard of a couple people breaking timing belts at an idle and not damaging anything. Don't know if they were interference motors or not.

I had an experience 15 years ago on the MX track where I shifted down in the air over a jump preparing for the next corner. I didn't think it went so I stomped down on the shifter again to make sure I got the gear. Turns out it did shift both times and I floated the valves hard when landing. It didn't give any indication that it touched until half a lap later when it dropped the valve

[maslin]

I snapped a timing belt at 65 on the interstate, felt like the fuel pump went out. VG33ER Nissan engine, supposed to be interference. Towed home, threw a timing belt on it and drove it for another 2 years. Weird stuff happens.

If you bend a valve you won’t have compression on that cylinder. If you’re one tooth of on a cam and the valve is touching the carbon on the piston you got very lucky.

If it’s only noisy at higher RPM a cam or 4 would have to be off the right amount in the right direction that when the cam advances or retards it hits. That’s such a perfect situation.

I’m still counting on wrist pins or pistons. But who knows

[Ultramaroon]

This one time at band camp...

[c.klingner]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Hi ya, c.klingner, we understand your frustration, however, that is not a reason to be lashing out at ol @maslin , who is one of the sharper knives in the drawer.

Have you considered taking your car to a different dealer?

My experience with "floating valves" has been sort of like a woman being "sorta" pregnant - either they are or they are not.

If a piston head touches a valve, to the point where you can hear it - the valve is doomed.

I sure hope you get things sorted out.


humfrz

For the record I was not trying to lash out at maslin, he seems smart enough to know what is probably causing my issue. Most of the explicits I did use were directed at this dealership as they are the source of my frustration. I did feel as though his post was just belittling rather then helping so I got defensive. This dealership has had my car for almost 2 months and still haven’t figured out the issue. It is definitely a metallic sound, it only happens when the engine is under load, and the dealership is the one that said the valves were loose and they had to tighten them. They have said many things that don’t make sense to me. Being I have never tore down a boxer motor I am not familiar with the inner working besides the basic principles of a 4 stroke motor. I do appologize if i came off as upset at anyone in this forum I just want my car back. I feel as though the dealership should pay but honestly, as long as it doesn’t cost me a fortune, at this point I just want my car back.

[c.klingner]

Originally Posted by maslin

I snapped a timing belt at 65 on the interstate, felt like the fuel pump went out. VG33ER Nissan engine, supposed to be interference. Towed home, threw a timing belt on it and drove it for another 2 years. Weird stuff happens.

If you bend a valve you won’t have compression on that cylinder. If you’re one tooth of on a cam and the valve is touching the carbon on the piston you got very lucky.

If it’s only noisy at higher RPM a cam or 4 would have to be off the right amount in the right direction that when the cam advances or retards it hits. That’s such a perfect situation.

I’m still counting on wrist pins or pistons. But who knows

This is what I wish I could have said and not sounded dumb. I feel that the timing is off just enough to make them tap when the timing advances. It doesn’t happen at high RPMs once the car gets moving and is only at a very specific time when the engine is under the most amount of stress, typically at lower RPMs when giving it gas so as to speed up. Can anyone come up with a good solution that doesn’t involve the timing I am all ears at this point.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by c.klingner

For the record I was not trying to lash out at maslin, he seems smart enough to know what is probably causing my issue. Most of the explicits I did use were directed at this dealership as they are the source of my frustration. I did feel as though his post was just belittling rather then helping so I got defensive. This dealership has had my car for almost 2 months and still haven’t figured out the issue. It is definitely a metallic sound, it only happens when the engine is under load, and the dealership is the one that said the valves were loose and they had to tighten them. They have said many things that don’t make sense to me. Being I have never tore down a boxer motor I am not familiar with the inner working besides the basic principles of a 4 stroke motor. I do appologize if i came off as upset at anyone in this forum I just want my car back. I feel as though the dealership should pay but honestly, as long as it doesn’t cost me a fortune, at this point I just want my car back.

No offense taken, I’d be livid after 2 weeks let alone 2 months.

Such a terrible situation that the shop that screws up is the shop that has to fix it. Just so many ways for that to go wrong, including their inability to accept any responsibility. A different shop with an unbiased perspective might be your best bet.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by c.klingner

This is what I wish I could have said and not sounded dumb. I feel that the timing is off just enough to make them tap when the timing advances. It doesn’t happen at high RPMs once the car gets moving and is only at a very specific time when the engine is under the most amount of stress, typically at lower RPMs when giving it gas so as to speed up. Can anyone come up with a good solution that doesn’t involve the timing I am all ears at this point.

It just feels like wrist pins/pistons with that explanation. If you were off a tooth I have to imagine it would set a code. Misfiring often results in a rich mixture in the catalyst, although misfire codes don’t always pop up immediately. Even without a code the timing could be monitored with a scan tool. 2 months in they have to have checked it.

Build an engine, it doesn’t run right, timing is almost literally the first thing you check. Lots of reports of people with timing codes after the recall, if it’s off there should be codes.

I resealed a front cover on an m113 in a 220 s500 back in 2007 or so. Ran rough, hard to start, misfire on all the right cylinders. I swore to my shop foreman I timed it right, he knew I didn’t just listening to it. Right cam was off a tooth.

[c.klingner]

Originally Posted by maslin

No offense taken, I’d be livid after 2 weeks let alone 2 months.

Such a terrible situation that the shop that screws up is the shop that has to fix it. Just so many ways for that to go wrong, including their inability to accept any responsibility. A different shop with an unbiased perspective might be your best bet.

I have asked if I could take it to another dealership and SOA said that the second dealership would not be responsible for the repairs even if it was found the other dealership messed something up and I would have to take the original dealership to court after I paid for it. I was trying to give the dealership the benefit of the doubt and allowing them to fix there mistake but they have seemed to want to push off blame from the moment I brought the car back. I feel even with my limited knowledge I could have torn the engine apart and put it back together twice in the time they have been trouble shooting. Since the 18th of february, all they have told me that has been done so far is a readjustment of the valve lash, and they replaced my exhaust manifold as it was bad due to an earlier issue I had with a stuck injector, and they tested the injectors given the earlier issue. It is also majorly important to note that as soon as the noise developed I pulled over and checked the oil and it wasn’t even on the dipstick. I added 1 and 2/3 a qt of oil to bring it in between the holes.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by c.klingner

I have asked if I could take it to another dealership and SOA said that the second dealership would not be responsible for the repairs even if it was found the other dealership messed something up and I would have to take the original dealership to court after I paid for it. I was trying to give the dealership the benefit of the doubt and allowing them to fix there mistake but they have seemed to want to push off blame from the moment I brought the car back. I feel even with my limited knowledge I could have torn the engine apart and put it back together twice in the time they have been trouble shooting. Since the 18th of february, all they have told me that has been done so far is a readjustment of the valve lash, and they replaced my exhaust manifold as it was bad due to an earlier issue I had with a stuck injector, and they tested the injectors given the earlier issue. It is also majorly important to note that as soon as the noise developed I pulled over and checked the oil and it wasn’t even on the dipstick. I added 1 and 2/3 a qt of oil to bring it in between the holes.

Was this brought up before and I just missed it?




humfrz

[Nivikus]

Signed up for the forums just to thank everyone here for the information and what they're experiencing at the dealerships.

I took my BRZ in and they had no problem doing the recall despite having the Edelbrock supercharger. They either weren't aware of the recall issue or they were playing dumb. Hopefully it just means they've had zero people come back with issues.

I've only had it back a few days and put about 100 miles on it. Engine seems better than ever so far. I'm going to be nervous for the next thousand miles or so.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by c.klingner

For the record I was not trying to lash out at maslin, he seems smart enough to know what is probably causing my issue. Most of the explicits I did use were directed at this dealership as they are the source of my frustration. I did feel as though his post was just belittling rather then helping so I got defensive. This dealership has had my car for almost 2 months and still haven’t figured out the issue. It is definitely a metallic sound, it only happens when the engine is under load, and the dealership is the one that said the valves were loose and they had to tighten them. They have said many things that don’t make sense to me. Being I have never tore down a boxer motor I am not familiar with the inner working besides the basic principles of a 4 stroke motor. I do appologize if i came off as upset at anyone in this forum I just want my car back. I feel as though the dealership should pay but honestly, as long as it doesn’t cost me a fortune, at this point I just want my car back.

Well, after that period of time, I would go get my car and take it to another shop and ask them if they can figure out what the funny noise is.


humfrz