feedback on TWS Motorsport T66-F vs Volk Ce28n, Te37 for dd

[why?]

So I'm closing in on deciding which wheels I want to buy, and I don't see a lot of feedback on the t66f from people. Is it as strong as the Volk wheels? I dd'ed the Ce28n for a decade and it looked just as good at the end as it did the beginning, I didn't have to worry about anything and could drive my car like it was a tank.

How strong is the t66f and will it last for daily driving without having to baby it?

[Racecomp Engineering]

All of the above are just fine for daily driving. We've run all 3 on our various cars at some point. Accidentally curbing them is your biggest concern.

I do worry about many of the very light and less expensive wheels commonly used on this platform, even the flow formed ones.

- Andrew

[WC-BRZ]

Baller status y0!

[why?]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

All of the above are just fine for daily driving. We've run all 3 on our various cars at some point. Accidentally curbing them is your biggest concern.

I do worry about many of the very light and less expensive wheels commonly used on this platform, even the flow formed ones.

- Andrew

Thanks for the feedback. I'm just surprised how little positive comments there are, but I bet its from people enjoying their wheels.

I bought a set of second hand set of lighter weight wheels that lasted all of 3 weeks before the inner rim bent to crap on a pothole that was so small I didn't even see it. I mean it bent like it was a piece of crap steel wheel. That put me off forever on anything that is not forged, because I had such a great experience with the Volks on my Yaris. And frankly some of these non forged wheels are so expensive I'd be furious if I bought them and that happened. I don't want to have to drive my car like a grandmother because I'm afraid a tiny leaf could bend my wheels.

[churchx]

"how little positive comments" are because forged wheels cost fortune, and most buy cast wheels.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by why?

Thanks for the feedback. I'm just surprised how little positive comments there are, but I bet its from people enjoying their wheels.

I bought a set of second hand set of lighter weight wheels that lasted all of 3 weeks before the inner rim bent to crap on a pothole that was so small I didn't even see it. I mean it bent like it was a piece of crap steel wheel. That put me off forever on anything that is not forged, because I had such a great experience with the Volks on my Yaris. And frankly some of these non forged wheels are so expensive I'd be furious if I bought them and that happened. I don't want to have to drive my car like a grandmother because I'm afraid a tiny leaf could bend my wheels.

There are some wheels that are very strong without being forged. They just may not be ultra light. I daily a tarmac rally wheel that's flow formed, strong as heck, and relatively reasonably priced. It's not as light as some others, but the roads I drive on are not very good.

- Andrew

[churchx]

BTW, forged wheels certainly are not the final solution for uber strong wheels that will never get damaged. Nor they give lot of extra performance. They just tend to be around same strength as similar cast wheel of +20-25% heavier, or of same strength but by similar extent lighter. Otherwise no magic or braking physic laws or magic unobtanium material of fairytale strength. As in, imho OE cast wheels of 9.1kg may aswell be as strong if not stronger as those listed in OP forged wheels of ~ 6.2-6.5kg weight. And just +5whp from aftermarket air filter may more then compensate slightly more rotational inertia of reasonably heavier wheels.
Forged wheels might be of choice for two cases, - when one can afford and want no compromise best, even if very expensive and just slightly better, and in competitive motorsports, where every possible extra slight advantage bit may count, where even -0.2s less laptime matters and may separate victor from one lost.
In most other cases with reasonable budget and aim to get most performance per buck, good quality cast wheel should be more then sufficient to get looks, slight performance or slight strength increase. Main bit that should matter - to choose wheels that are strong enough(rest might be redundant for use waste), and then choose by looks/weight/cost from that. For example - wheels like Enkei RPRF1 might do ok. Good compromise of strength/looks/weight/cost. But something like Kosei K4R - lacks main bit. With it's weight like that of most good forged wheels, these are lacking in strength and are overlightened TOO much, easy to damage/bend both on bad daily driven roads and on track.
My own choice is other - forged wheels bought anew imho simply are wasted money with too little to gain for insane sum spent that would net much more spent elsewhere .. so i simply went for used forged wheels set . If whole set of four forged wheels costs me cost of one new wheel price, then forged ones seem considerable alternative to new cast wheels.

[Leonardo]

Originally Posted by churchx

"how little positive comments" are because forged wheels cost fortune, and most buy cast wheels.

Yep. I always dreamed of owning ce28n. My coils, lca, sways, wheels, trailing arms, toe arms, and tie rods cost less than the set I wanted though....


OP, I would love any of the forged wheels you contemplating.

[why?]

Originally Posted by churchx

BTW, forged wheels certainly are not the final solution for uber strong wheels that will never get damaged. Nor they give lot of extra performance. They just tend to be around same strength as similar cast wheel of +20-25% heavier, or of same strength but by similar extent lighter. Otherwise no magic or braking physic laws or magic unobtanium material of fairytale strength. As in, imho OE cast wheels of 9.1kg may aswell be as strong if not stronger as those listed in OP forged wheels of ~ 6.2-6.5kg weight. And just +5whp from aftermarket air filter may more then compensate slightly more rotational inertia of reasonably heavier wheels.
Forged wheels might be of choice for two cases, - when one can afford and want no compromise best, even if very expensive and just slightly better, and in competitive motorsports, where every possible extra slight advantage bit may count, where even -0.2s less laptime matters and may separate victor from one lost.
In most other cases with reasonable budget and aim to get most performance per buck, good quality cast wheel should be more then sufficient to get looks, slight performance or slight strength increase. Main bit that should matter - to choose wheels that are strong enough(rest might be redundant for use waste), and then choose by looks/weight/cost from that. For example - wheels like Enkei RPRF1 might do ok. Good compromise of strength/looks/weight/cost. But something like Kosei K4R - lacks main bit. With it's weight like that of most good forged wheels, these are lacking in strength and are overlightened TOO much, easy to damage/bend both on bad daily driven roads and on track.
My own choice is other - forged wheels bought anew imho simply are wasted money with too little to gain for insane sum spent that would net much more spent elsewhere .. so i simply went for used forged wheels set . If whole set of four forged wheels costs me cost of one new wheel price, then forged ones seem considerable alternative to new cast wheels.

every wheel can break. You can find pictures of every brand of wheel broken on the internet.

I'm not the compromising type. If I buy a wheel I want it to be the lowest weight I can find. Believe me, If I could mod my BRZ to fit 4x100 14x5.5 Ce28n's, I would, because they weigh 6 pounds each. But that really isn't feasible and unfortunately the 14" tire selection isn't what it used to be. It stinks that even miata's now use massive wheels and tires.

[churchx]

My current "no compromise" choice probably would be TWS T66-F then. Also from Volk .. have you considered ZE40 in addition to those listed?

[Yoshoobaroo]

I'm DDing 17" TE37s, they were powdercoated to give them a more durable finish, they look the same after 2 years of DD duty. The wheels themselves are likely over 10 years old as that size has been discontinued for a long time, so they last just fine! They were on a 2nd gen Prius before I found them .

[why?]

Originally Posted by churchx

My current "no compromise" choice probably would be TWS T66-F then. Also from Volk .. have you considered ZE40 in addition to those listed?

ZE40's are designed to be heavier, and only come in massive sizes I'm not interested in.

[CounterSpace Garage]

We're quite familiar with all the different forged wheels listed above. We've been direct with Taneisya for 5 years now and have been the ones to bring over some of the wheels discussed on the forums over the years. To answer your question, they are fine for daily activities and also very strong and light. The only problem is popularity due to the higher pricing compared to Volks, Titan7, etc.

If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to PM us!

[churchx]

why?: ZE40 are heavier, but also stronger.
"Is it as strong as the Volk wheels"
"I didn't have to worry about anything and could drive my car like it was a tank."
"How strong is the t66f and will it last for daily driving without having to baby it?"
Those sentences in OP made me think that you may put strength over lightness, which you didn't mention in OP even once.