Oil system mods for more pressure and flow.

[Calum]

What's the purpose of making the plate removable aside from initially casting the ports? What would be the ramifications of welding the plates on?


Thanks so much to the guys that are sharing their findings.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Calum

What's the purpose of making the plate removable aside from initially casting the ports? What would be the ramifications of welding the plates on?


Thanks so much to the guys that are sharing their findings.

It always comes down to $$$. Making the timing cover a weldment would kick it into a whole new category because of the added prep work. The rough casting would have to be machined to prep for the weld. Then, after it was done warping, it could go for final machining.

For the record, I'm not convinced that the gap is a big deal. Same goes for the flat head cap screws. One is and the other is

[sam69]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

This may sound stupid, but has anyone tried to tighten down those Phillips head screws with an impact screwdriver? I found it was the best way to tighten/loosen stubborn screws without stripping them.

Doesn't matter how tight you make the screws it is not going to make any difference to the areas that aren't sealing .


Showed the guy who is building my motor and he reckons it would lead to cavitation at high revs as it only takes a small amount of air to help make it happen and we need to fix it .

[ermax]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I would not worry so much with the suction side of the pump. The vacuum should pull the plate down tight. I used gasgacinch on mine to seal the plates and oil pump cover. I also machined a new plate for the driver side which is 10mm thick, this is the maximum or it will hit the chain guides. I had no air leaking from the oem passenger side plate. I did get the engine in and started just haven't hooked a oil pressure gauge up, but the oil light goes out before it fires so that's a good sign. Another trick to help prime a new engine is fill the outside hole up with oil, underneath the oil filter in the front cover. This hole leads directly to the oil pump.

Switching the hubs to 114.3 on 5 so its not drivable.

I did this on mine. I also filled the filter up and then I turned it over with the throttle pressed all the way down (which disables fuel so it will not start) for about 10 secs. When I fired it up it sounded nice and smooth. It can be nerve wracking on first crank when it’s all dry for the first few secs and sounds like it wants to come apart. It’s was easy to combat this on this engine.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

the oil light goes out before it fires so that's a good sign.

This is truly impressive.

[Trust86]

Bump, any update?

[chipmunk]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Cavatation also has a side effect of heating the fluid. Seems Fa20 cooks the oil pretty fast when its pushed hard.

What oil weight were you using that caused cavitation & metal erosion?

[churchx]

cavitation .. wasn't it more of boiling/evaporating of fluids due low pressure that lowers boiling temp of fluid, not rising temps themselves or my memory fails me?
At least IIRC it was that way for boat propellers, especially high speed ones, with water evaporating for fast spinning propeller, thus high pressure gradient on one side of blade ..

[ermax]

Originally Posted by chipmunk

What oil weight were you using that caused cavitation & metal erosion?

I don't think oil weight is the cause, it's a shit design causing it.

[fika84]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I would not worry so much with the suction side of the pump. The vacuum should pull the plate down tight. I used gasgacinch on mine to seal the plates and oil pump cover. I also machined a new plate for the driver side which is 10mm thick, this is the maximum or it will hit the chain guides. I had no air leaking from the oem passenger side plate. I did get the engine in and started just haven't hooked a oil pressure gauge up, but the oil light goes out before it fires so that's a good sign. Another trick to help prime a new engine is fill the outside hole up with oil, underneath the oil filter in the front cover. This hole leads directly to the oil pump.

Switching the hubs to 114.3 on 5 so its not drivable.

Thanks for this. I just took my engine apart due to a spun bearing. It's a 2013 BRZ (I was hoping a valve spring broke!). The engine has less than 35k on it, but I've been tracking it and it has an OFT tune and header back.

Is it OK to use the gasgacinch on all of those plates? Subaru put SO MUCH SEALANT everywhere that I would expect they would've put some here too!









Sealant galore

[Trust86]

Originally Posted by remhex

On the topic of oil stuff, I just tried a mod to my sandwich plate that helped out. I had a pressure drop after my oil cooler install. The manufacturer assured me the loss was normal and they have way more experience than me. Anyways, I drilled a hole through the sandwich plate. I started small and kept increasing the size of the hole until my redline oil pressure was close to where it was prior to the oil cooler install. I don't know a thing about thermodynamical stuff but the idea was that at all rpm's, some oil could bypass the cooler to increase flow but not enough to reduce cooling significantly. Max temps are 10° hotter but I gained 8psi even with the slightly higher temperatures. I started with a 3/16 hole and ended up with 5/16. Oil lines are an10.

I’m interested in this, you just drilled right through the sandwich plate? Any specific area? Also what oil cooler kit are you running? I’m going to get my feed for turbo from another location and cap off the feed by the a/c compressor, relocate my own oil temp sensor to oil pan and since I’ll have it off, add the killer bee pick up tube. I already have a blue moon lower oil pan baffle.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I would not worry so much with the suction side of the pump. The vacuum should pull the plate down tight. I used gasgacinch on mine to seal the plates and oil pump cover. I also machined a new plate for the driver side which is 10mm thick, this is the maximum or it will hit the chain guides. I had no air leaking from the oem passenger side plate. I did get the engine in and started just haven't hooked a oil pressure gauge up, but the oil light goes out before it fires so that's a good sign. Another trick to help prime a new engine is fill the outside hole up with oil, underneath the oil filter in the front cover. This hole leads directly to the oil pump.

Switching the hubs to 114.3 on 5 so its not drivable.

Is this thing on the road yet? Any updates on how effective your modifications are?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by churchx

cavitation .. wasn't it more of boiling/evaporating of fluids due low pressure that lowers boiling temp of fluid, not rising temps themselves or my memory fails me?
At least IIRC it was that way for boat propellers, especially high speed ones, with water evaporating for fast spinning propeller, thus high pressure gradient on one side of blade ..

I always understood it to be that the fast spinning propeller causes sufficient vacuum at the leading edge to cause the cavitation.


Source: 20 years of the Canadian Navy

[Captain Snooze]

I've always thought vacuum cleaners were an oxymoron.