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Old 07-04-2012, 11:00 PM   #29
Spaceywilly
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I'm hoping to use the signals before the oem amp and remove that amp entirely. If those signals don't work with my amp I'll use the speaker level signals.
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:53 PM   #30
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Let me know. Thanks.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:56 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceywilly View Post
I'm hoping to use the signals before the oem amp and remove that amp entirely. If those signals don't work with my amp I'll use the speaker level signals.
Did you finish this project? If so, do you have any pictures of the setup / finished product? I plan on adding a subwoofer this weekend using this method. Last night I ran the power cable from the engine bay to the rear, and I hope to finish this weekend.
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:49 AM   #32
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Not yet, I'm waiting to run the power cable as you did. I think instead of removing the front speaker amp as I mentioned in that post I'm just going to add the subwoofer using a 2ch amp that I had. The downside of this is that I can't cut the low frequencies out of the front door speakers, so I might have to get a 4ch amp at some point, but I think just adding the sub will make a huge difference. So this way, I will just use the left channel + and - signals and the remote signal from that connector.
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:08 PM   #33
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Here is my current setup. It took me about 1.5 hrs on Thursday evening to route the power cable through the firewall and car. On Friday afternoon, I took about 1 hr and 45 mins to finish the rest of the setup. However I am not done yet, I rushed it because I had dinner plans and a soccer game later that evening. I would work on it now, but it's too damn hot in Houston,TX right now. My next step is to clean it up and make it look pretty.
The current setup is;
-760 watts max Sony xploid amp
-10" Infinity sub dual voice coil, (4 or 2 ohm, I forgot) - 500 watt rms / 1000 max
-ported sub enclosure
-low pass filter

I am using the left / right speaker signal and remote on signal coming into the factory amp.

My future plans are similar to spacewilly's idea. Get a space and power efficient 4 CH Amp, a smaller subwoofer and enclosure, run the door speaker off 2 ch's, and the sub from 2 ch bridged into one.

My current sub and enclosure is too damn loud, it rattles the whole car and the bass is too much.. lol. I didn't know it was going to be like this, I have the amp about 1/4 way turned on the gain, and the bass bumps super hard... anyways it'll do for now.

INFINITY 10" SUB + SONY AMP

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LOW PASS FILTER

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CABLE RAN UNDERNEATH REAR PASSENGER SEAT

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CABLE RAN THROUGH FIREWALL FRONT PASSENGER FOOTWELL

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CABLE RAN THROUGH FIREWALL - EXISTING GROMMET FOUND REAR LEFT OF BATTERY

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Last edited by fmsida; 07-14-2012 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:54 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcelir8brz View Post
I ran the power cable on the passenger side through the stock grommet to the passenger foot well from the engine compartment behind the battery.

Here is the head unit pin outs:

10-pin power/speaker harness
1 2 - - 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

Code:
1 RF+ (SUBWOOFER)
2 LF+
3 +12V Accessory (AMPLIFIER)
4 +12V Battery/Constant
5 RF- (SUBWOOFER)
6 LF-
7 Ground
8 Power Antenna (provides power to Subaru's antenna booster amp)
9 [NC] {amp remote turn-on signal on Toyota HUs, not Subaru}
10 Illumination+


6-pin power/speaker harness
1 - - 2
3 4 5 6
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

Code:
1 RR+
2 LR+
3 RR-
4 [NC]
5 Dimmer (Illumination-)
6 LR-


28-pin SWC/aux/mic harness
1 .. 14
15 .. 28
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

Code:
1 [NC]
2 Reverse Gear
3 Illumination Dimmer Cancel (Bright mode)
4 Mic ? (separate, possibly ground)
5 Mic ? (twisted w/ 19)
6 Ground (not connected to mic)
7-14 [NC]
15 [NC]
16 [NC]
17 VSS
18 [NC]
19 Mic ? (twisted w/ 5)
20 [NC]
21 SWC Audio (Seek, Volume)
22 SWC Mode + Phone
23 SWC Common
24 [NC]
25 Aux enable
26 Aux audio Right
27 Aux audio shield/ground
28 Aux audio Left


16-pin rear camera socket
1 ... 8
9 ... 16
(orientation: viewing pins on car's factory plug, wires pointed away from you)

Code:
4 ?
5 ?
6 Parking brake (CUT AND PUT RADIO SIDE ON GROUND TO 28 PIN HARNESS GROUND)
7 Camera +6V supply (HU sends power to OEM Camera)
8 Camera Video In
15 Camera Detect (connect this to chassis ground)
16 Shield/ground
This is the plugs on the back of the Head Unit correct. Wanna make sure its that and not the amp in the back you are talking about. Either way thanks I was tryn to find the amp remote turn on!
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:02 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruzinbill View Post
This is the plugs on the back of the Head Unit correct. Wanna make sure its that and not the amp in the back you are talking about. Either way thanks I was tryn to find the amp remote turn on!
These plugs are the ones found behind the Head Unit.
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:07 AM   #36
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sweeeT ill throw a meter on there today to confirm the toyota amp turn on!


Verified today that is the amp turn on for toyota or umm scion I mean.

Last edited by cruzinbill; 07-19-2012 at 03:09 AM.
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:32 PM   #37
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Spaceywilly,

Do you know what fuse is linked to that amp in the trunk? Thanks.

Jeff
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:39 PM   #38
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I will take a look later, looking at the wiring diagrams it looks like a 15A fuse labelled (possibly) ANP in the Instrument panel J/B assembly. I think it's in the bottom right of the fuse box inside the car.
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:34 AM   #39
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If you are going to add a sub.. just use the RCA outs. No point in giving up sound quality and running a line out converter or tapping into those little front door speaker wires, when even the stock base model HU gives you sub RCA outputs.

That being said, finding a harness for a facroty sub could make running a remote amp wire a little easier.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:57 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRAZYK View Post
If you are going to add a sub.. just use the RCA outs. No point in giving up sound quality and running a line out converter or tapping into those little front door speaker wires, when even the stock base model HU gives you sub RCA outputs.

That being said, finding a harness for a facroty sub could make running a remote amp wire a little easier.
That's only the case for the FR-S HU, not the BRZ's.

I still wonder how they are going to be hooking up the OEM sub that's listed in the BRZ's accessories catalog without the RCA outs.
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:47 AM   #41
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I bought a all in one 8" sub/amp 600 watt 300 watt RMS combo just for a little extra boom in my BRZ limited. I used the passenger side rear speaker to draw the RCA signal i needed for the amp. Works great. sounds good. not to loud as to wake the neighbors, but sounds good for anyone in the car or near the car.
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:39 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate219BRZ View Post
I bought a all in one 8" sub/amp 600 watt 300 watt RMS combo just for a little extra boom in my BRZ limited. I used the passenger side rear speaker to draw the RCA signal i needed for the amp. Works great. sounds good. not to loud as to wake the neighbors, but sounds good for anyone in the car or near the car.

Hey Nate, can you post pictures, name/brand of the sub/amp combo? I am trying find something smaller and not as loud as my current setup. As you can see in the above post, the subwoofer alone almost takes up half the trunk space.
Thanks.
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