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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#197 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Drives: 2016 Subaru BRZ Hyperblue
Location: West Hartford, CT
Posts: 8,481
Thanks: 22,744
Thanked 9,441 Times in 4,849 Posts
Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
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Cracked 10k... time for oil change #2Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk |
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#198 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Drives: 2017 BRZ - WRB
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 323
Thanks: 115
Thanked 209 Times in 109 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
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#199 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Drives: 2016 BRZ Crystal White Pearl
Location: Europe
Posts: 4
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 1 Post
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You Americans (I presume) drive quite a bit! I've reached about 6000 miles after one year of ownership.
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#200 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Drives: '13 FR-S Whiteout Pearl
Location: NC
Posts: 4
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
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Almost 130k miles
First, just let me say I plan to own this car until gasoline runs out or is outlawed, and even then I’d probably consider swapping-in an electric powertrain or flintstoning it.
![]() I’m about to crack 130k miles on my mostly stock ‘13 FR-S. Purchased in September 2015 with 20k miles (second owner). I had a 150mile commute for almost three years which really racked up the highway miles. Averaged 34mpg on the built-in meter (not counting speeds below ~5mph). Update, January 2025: I'm still driving this car. I've since gotten a job much closer so the miles haven't racked up as much Strictly Mobil 1 0w-20 EP and M1EP, K&N, or Purolator BOSS oil filters with a 15k mile change interval (yes, 15k), though I’m about try out this Idemitsu Zepro high-moly formula (5qts for under $30 on amazon atm), mostly because I refuse to stand in line at Walmart, even for the only affordably priced Mobil 1 on the market. Replaced the OE spark plugs at 120k with no noticeable issues. I’m on my second set of BFG g-Force Comp-2 A/S high performance all-season tires (highly recommend, huge improvement over OE). Still on the original brakes, clutch, o2 sensor, struts, headlights, and battery. (Get an LED dome light, it will save your battery if you’re like me and occasionally forget to turn it off.) The only thing that has outright failed is a tire pressure sensor on one wheel, and the fact that it happened during a tire change makes me suspect it was the fault of a clumsy technician. Mods include Perrin intake tube, Spectre drop-in panel air filter, Radium brake master cylinder brace, Whiteline rear subframe, differential, and transmission bushings, Perrin shifter bushing, DIF Pawn shift knob, and Cusco throttle pedal. I have Motul brake fluid and gear oil waiting to go in, as well as Stoptech braided steel brake lines and pads. As for the interior, the one item that began to show wear first was the OE shift knob. The leather almost wore through on one seam, so took the opportunity to upgrade and replaced it with a nice delrin piece from DIF. The driver seat is definitely showing some wear, but no holes or rips, just the fabric is thinning in some spots; I’ve been very careful to not squash the bolsters when getting in and out of the car. The steering wheel is peeling at 7 and 12, which only started after bringing it in to a body shop (someone probably moved the car with paint thinner on their hands). Other than that just some light scuffs on the silver door trim, kick panel, and near the ignition switch, but the driver window does squeal sometimes after heavy rain. Shifter and hand brake boots are mint. It continues to surprise me how reliable and economical this car has been thus far. :fingers crossed: Update (January 2025): ~218,XXX miles logged Throw-out bearing (TOB) failed around 180k miles circa 2020 (thankfully on a jaunt close to home) causing damage to the pressure plate and disabling the ability to shift. Limped it home in 1st gear, and I've since replaced the TOB with a "fix kit" that includes a stainless steel snout sleeve to cover the cast aluminum OEM snout, and an oversized TOB to accommodate the sleeve. No trouble since, though I suspect there's another more fundamental engineering flaw that causes these TOB systems to fail prematurely. Clutch feel has definitely not been the 86's strong suit IMO. I may not have mentioned it, but I always choose to use the Purolator BOSS oil filter, overpriced as it may be (it balances capacity to filter and ability to flow so as not to induce the filter bypass valve to trigger and introduce contaminants at high rpm). I've since switched from Idemitsu Zepro Hi-Moly to Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synth High Mileage with Ultra MaxLife upon reviewing results of certain oil tests on BobIsTheOilGuy. When I was commuting 100 plus miles/day I sent oil samples to Blackstone for sampling and all came back excellent, recommending I extend my oil change intervals. This was with 15k miles or more on the oil. Shorter commutes (sub 5 miles) would certainly result in a reduced recommended oil change interval. After changing the clutch (OEM Exedy disk with a no name amazon 13lb chromoly flywheel), not much else has failed, save this: The driver side visor broke at the visor-body mountd, in summer 2024. I've been quite pleased and surprised with the reliability of this Subaru/Toyota monstrosity in and around my now ten years of ownership. We're getting old, guys, but the cars are surviving. It's a win. Last edited by Lemniscate; 01-22-2025 at 11:30 PM. |
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