First HPDE day with Perf Pack!

[TheRealBFKR]

Hi all!

I realize that this question has been asked quite a few times, but only one or two seemed to address the PP. I apologize for posting another thread; I am particularly worried about pads and oil temp, so I figured it may warrant a new thread.

I have done about a season and a half of autocrossing, mainly in my old NC Miata.

I recently got Pilot Sport 4Ses on the stock rims on my BRZ. I plan on tracking them since I definitely can't afford race tires right now.

Other than that, the only mods I plan on doing is better brake fluid and 5w30 oil. Will the stock Brembos and pads hold up well for a beginner with just a fluid upgrade? As for the temperature, this is GridLife in October so I don't think the ambient temperature will be very hot (could I even get away with 0w20? That will save me the hassle of switching back to 0w20 when winter comes, but I am by all means open to 5w30 if that's the smarter call)

I am also planning on getting track day insurance, since it's such a new car (and my only car). That will set me back almost 200 dollars. Lockton seemed slightly more expensive than Hagerty for me at least.

For my first time on track, can I get away with just these preparations?

I see that a lot of people don't get the oil cooler until a few weekends in. I am definitely planning on track pads and a JR NA OC for the future but will not be able to really afford those mods until Spring next year.

Another side note: has anyone done the Beginner HPDE sessions with GridLife? How was your experience?

[kch]

Originally Posted by TheRealBFKR

Other than that, the only mods I plan on doing is better brake fluid and 5w30 oil. Will the stock Brembos and pads hold up well for a beginner with just a fluid upgrade?

5w30 is probably a good idea for track use if you don't have an OC. I haven't personally used the PP brakes, but I would still suggest you get a separate set of track pads. I suspect you would outgrow the stock pads within 2-3 sessions.

[14stu]

0w20 is fine, the main benefit from 30 weight is that if it shears down you still have plenty of buffer room, but a good synthetic 20 weight won't shear enough to worry about. Modern oils are pretty impressive. You won't hurt anything going to 5w-30 and oil changes aren't too much of a hassle (I like my Fumoto drain valve, really cuts down on oil change hassle and you don't have to worry about crush washers or dropping the drain plug into your used oil).

Pads are a much bigger concern, the stock pads will overheat and they will be ruined from a trackday (you're going to need them anyway and it's better to spend the money now and save the stock pads for daily use). I'd recommend something like a GLoc R10 or R12 (same as a Carbotech XP10 or XP12), Ferodo DS2500 or DS1.11, or the Hawk Street/Race. None of these are too tough on rotors and should all be enough pad to grow into (they all work well cold too, so you don't have to worry about not keeping enough heat in them or having confidence in them the first few laps).

[CSG Mike]

You need proper pads, and should get an oil cooler.

Stock pads will ruin your day quickly, Brembos or not.

PM me to order.

[D-rek07]

I tracked my 2013 BRZ with stock pads the first time. I didn't reach the limit of the stock pads. I have upgraded since I have more track experience. I did change to RBF600 brake fluid tho. Brake pads are nice and will help you put down faster lap times. I might have experienced brake fade but as a first timer on the track, I didn't notice it. There are plenty of posts of people tracking this car for the first time completely stock. I would hope that the Brembo's would have better heat management than the non-performance brakes. They should fade even less, if at all.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by D-rek07

I tracked my 2013 BRZ with stock pads the first time. I didn't reach the limit of the stock pads. I have upgraded since I have more track experience. I did change to RBF600 brake fluid tho. Brake pads are nice and will help you put down faster lap times. I might have experienced brake fade but as a first timer on the track, I didn't notice it. There are plenty of posts of people tracking this car for the first time completely stock. I would hope that the Brembo's would have better heat management than the non-performance brakes. They should fade even less, if at all.

If you're doing any sort of hard braking and/or threshold braking, you'll find the limits of those stock pads, even on the Brembos, within a lap. There's a big difference between going to the track for the first time, and (relatively) coasting around the track, versus someone like the OP who already has performance driving experience, and will be utilizing the brakes to their potential out of the box.

[D-rek07]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If you're doing any sort of hard braking and/or threshold braking, you'll find the limits of those stock pads, even on the Brembos, within a lap. There's a big difference between going to the track for the first time, and (relatively) coasting around the track, versus someone like the OP who already has performance driving experience, and will be utilizing the brakes to their potential out of the box.

Ahhh, missed that. I'll read the entire thing before posting next time. Agreed, with more experience, better brakes will be helpful to get the most potential out of the car.

[Horrid_Funk]

With the PP brembos it's very easy to switch out pads so definitely do that. It takes me like 20-30 minutes by myself and then you don't have to worry about smearing your street pads.

Check your exclusions on your car insurance, it's possible they cover HPDEs and you don't need track day insurance. I'm with AAA and the only exclusion I found is if it's a timed racing event, which HPDEs are not. I've read online of them covering crashes on track, so it's definitely a thing. I did see on my previous insurance that any high speed event on a racing track isn't covered, regardless if you're actually racing, so it's definitely not all insurance companies. If you're feeling the least bit concerned about the insurance company not paying out definitely get the track day insurance.

[TheRealBFKR]

Originally Posted by Horrid_Funk

With the PP brembos it's very easy to switch out pads so definitely do that. It takes me like 20-30 minutes by myself and then you don't have to worry about smearing your street pads.

Check your exclusions on your car insurance, it's possible they cover HPDEs and you don't need track day insurance. I'm with AAA and the only exclusion I found is if it's a timed racing event, which HPDEs are not. I've read online of them covering crashes on track, so it's definitely a thing. I did see on my previous insurance that any high speed event on a racing track isn't covered, regardless if you're actually racing, so it's definitely not all insurance companies. If you're feeling the least bit concerned about the insurance company not paying out definitely get the track day insurance.

Thanks! I probably won't give my insurance company a call because I have heard people being denied insurance on the next billing cycle once they found out they were tracking.

Did you need a spreader tool to push the pistons back? Do I need to bleed the brakes a little bit after changing the pads? Do I open up the reservoir cap or the bleeder valves to push the pistons back in place?

Thanks!

[TheRealBFKR]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If you're doing any sort of hard braking and/or threshold braking, you'll find the limits of those stock pads, even on the Brembos, within a lap. There's a big difference between going to the track for the first time, and (relatively) coasting around the track, versus someone like the OP who already has performance driving experience, and will be utilizing the brakes to their potential out of the box.

Thanks, Mike. I will be ordering brake fluid pretty soon. Will you hit you via PM.

[TheRealBFKR]

Originally Posted by 14stu

0w20 is fine, the main benefit from 30 weight is that if it shears down you still have plenty of buffer room, but a good synthetic 20 weight won't shear enough to worry about. Modern oils are pretty impressive. You won't hurt anything going to 5w-30 and oil changes aren't too much of a hassle (I like my Fumoto drain valve, really cuts down on oil change hassle and you don't have to worry about crush washers or dropping the drain plug into your used oil).

Pads are a much bigger concern, the stock pads will overheat and they will be ruined from a trackday (you're going to need them anyway and it's better to spend the money now and save the stock pads for daily use). I'd recommend something like a GLoc R10 or R12 (same as a Carbotech XP10 or XP12), Ferodo DS2500 or DS1.11, or the Hawk Street/Race. None of these are too tough on rotors and should all be enough pad to grow into (they all work well cold too, so you don't have to worry about not keeping enough heat in them or having confidence in them the first few laps).

I bought a Fumoto valve too! Will put it on after my first oil change to 5w30 before the event.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by TheRealBFKR

Did you need a spreader tool to push the pistons back? Do I need to bleed the brakes a little bit after changing the pads? Do I open up the reservoir cap or the bleeder valves to push the pistons back in place?

There is enough space to push the pistons in with your fingers. I take off the reservoir cap when I do it. No need to bleed the brakes.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by TheRealBFKR

Thanks! I probably won't give my insurance company a call because I have heard people being denied insurance on the next billing cycle once they found out they were tracking.

Did you need a spreader tool to push the pistons back? Do I need to bleed the brakes a little bit after changing the pads? Do I open up the reservoir cap or the bleeder valves to push the pistons back in place?

Thanks!

I recommend doing it by hand to feel the condition of the seals and see how readily things move.