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| Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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#15 |
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pessimistic skeptic
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I think you were just pushing the throttle more to see if there was more power. There wasn't more power you were just driving to use more power. That is why mpg dropped,
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#16 | |
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[insert cool phrase here]
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Even did my own math not the dash mpg reading. Soon as I went back to oem nice 30mpg. But I do say my butt dnyo felt more power.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Mr.ac For This Useful Post: | Bonburner (08-15-2018) |
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#17 |
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Denso
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#18 |
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I've been using my AVO dry filter for 110k now.
Some things to consider...a higher flow filter will give more throttle response but potentially let more debris into the engine. Does it add power? OFT recommends a high flow filter with their tunes so I'd like to think it does (when tuned). I personally would avoid filters that need to be oiled up. I think the idea is that the oil increases filtration, but apply too much oil and you run the risk of it dirtying/ruining your MAF sensor. Also it's just more of a pain to have to add oil to a filter. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to norcalpb For This Useful Post: | ddevl_86 (02-26-2021) |
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#19 |
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I like better Cosworth's filter and it was used in their stage 1 tune. They were saying that the stock filter was pretty restrictive, but probably you need also the tune to get the most of this change. In general, I don't like oiled filters like the K&N.
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#20 |
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[insert cool phrase here]
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Well, yeah oil filters if not done properly can mess with you MAF sensor.
But... zero problems on my '91 MR2 Turbo with its K&N filter for the last 10+ years. My dads '01 Chevy pick up hads been fine for 6+ years with it. Is it a hassle to clean? Yeah takes about half a day for it to dry properly. Then buying the recharge kit every year, yep. A hassle.
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#21 |
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Thanks everybody for your input on this. From what I gleaned from the comments is that the stock air filter is best, there's no appreciable HP gain and that an oiled air filter is not worth the hassle, expense and could mess up your MAF sensor.
So, I guess I'll stick with my OEM air filter |
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#22 |
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Late entry, but I use HKS dry foam filters. I legitimately felt a power difference, but my oem filter was so full of bugs/twigs that a new oem filter may have just as well rivaled the HKS. I don't really care either way, they aren't expensive products lol.
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#23 |
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I have the TRD drop in. If you drive a lot of miles there is something to be said for a washable or reusable filter. I clean mine about every 10K so it has been done about 12 times now. Not sure what a replacement would cost for each of those times but it seems like a good investment to me. The location of the intake on these cars means they vacuum up way more crap than "normal" cars so the filter plugs up pretty quick.
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#24 | |
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#25 |
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#26 | |
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So far you’ve saved $191 by going aftermarket. Another thing to consider is replacing the cabin air filter with a K&N reusable filter. OEM is $26 online and aftermarket is $50. I’ve cleaned mine 5 times already so I’ve saved $80 and don’t have to deal with crappy cotton filters. My fish tank and house have carbon filters, but my car can’t? Yeah right time to go aftermarket. |
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#27 |
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http://nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
tl;dr Stick with an OEM-style filter unless you're willing to clean it every month.
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#28 |
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I put a K&N in my NA 86 Porsche 944 and ran the old Bridgehampton the next weekend. I don't remember the exact numbers, but always before I had run the short chute from 5 to 6 in 4th all the way. With the K&N I ran out of revs and had to upshift to 5th. I've used them ever since.
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