STX Rules and Setup Questions

[tony_r]

I'm willing to bet you could find a used torsen, complete unit, for cheaper than anything you find on the aftermarket. And you don't have to open it up, just R&R the old one.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by CoolHandMoss

But when your stock torsen goes out it will still need a rebuild when the quaife goes in. The quaife unit is just the pumpkin. So the bearings and whatever else is broken in the stock diff will run the cost up to more than a stock replacement, and well more than a rebuild of the stock unit.

Pumpkin usually refers to the case, not the differential unit itself that sits inside the case.

When I hear 'differential rebuild' I think about the thingy that does the magic of transferring the power, not the bearings and seals that keep it protected.

@tony_r is right, $500 or less gets you a lightly used differential that you can bolt right up to the rear end, just make sure you grab the right model (unless you want to cheat and end up with a gearing change out of it )

$500 on fleabay: (I bet you can find a used one from someone more reputable for $400 or less though, hey maybe an autoxer/track rat that's gone to aftermarket has a unit laying around or casually for sale)



vs. $1.2k + labor & other parts

[BE4VER]

Originally Posted by CoolHandMoss

But when your stock torsen goes out it will still need a rebuild when the quaife goes in. The quaife unit is just the pumpkin. So the bearings and whatever else is broken in the stock diff will run the cost up to more than a stock replacement, and well more than a rebuild of the stock unit.

I thought I was comparing case to case like number 9 in the exploded diagram. Wouldn't all the same stuff be needed anyway? If the case is not rebuildable then you save $350 for that one main part and the rest would be the same any way no?

[BE4VER]

Originally Posted by tony_r

I'm willing to bet you could find a used torsen, complete unit, for cheaper than anything you find on the aftermarket. And you don't have to open it up, just R&R the old one.

I know you guys are right about what you're saying with that and I am aware I'm being hypothetical AF

[tony_r]

When rebuilding a broken diff, you have no idea what is able to be saved and what isn't without cracking the case and inspecting. Metal shards have a way of traveling all through the carrier and damaging all the moving parts. You could have teeth sheered off the ring, pinion, or spider gears; and bearings that have pitting/excessive wear. Or you could have all of that.

With any replacement mechanical unit, you're paying for #9 only, basically. Some might come with #10 & #11 as well.

[smg1138]

What do you guys think about my new alignment? I was still getting noticeable outside tire wear at -2.5 Front -2 Rear so I decided to go all out. From what I've read these specs should give even wear and maximum grip. Will check with a pyrometer at next event to see if any tweaks are needed.

[CoolHandMoss]

That's right about where mine is set. It's pretty good but I do find the outside edges getting hot on high grip surfaces.

[smg1138]

So, I really need to pull the trigger on some camber plates. I tried using camber bolts to get more camber up front, but they ended up slipping. I can get up to -2.8 with just the 14mm crash bolts in my RCE T2's, but that still isn't enough for Autox. Getting noticeable outside wear in the front tires after every event.

What are some good plates to look at? Is anyone using the GroundControl plates? Seems like those would be optimal since the design actually adds more suspension travel. Definitely don't want anything that raises ride height.

[justinco]

I like the Raceseng camber/caster plates. Easy to adjust and install.

[AFRichZC6]

Originally Posted by smg1138

So, I really need to pull the trigger on some camber plates. I tried using camber bolts to get more camber up front, but they ended up slipping. I can get up to -2.8 with just the 14mm crash bolts in my RCE T2's, but that still isn't enough for Autox. Getting noticeable outside wear in the front tires after every event.

What are some good plates to look at? Is anyone using the GroundControl plates? Seems like those would be optimal since the design actually adds more suspension travel. Definitely don't want anything that raises ride height.

I have the GC camber plates. I haven't gotten close to the bumpstops in front. There's plenty of camber adjustment (at least -4.5 degrees with camber bolt adjustment at the strut). However, there's not much caster to be gained. IIRC, I only got about 0.5 degree more caster.

I also really like the Raceseng plates. They also do not take away compression travel or raise ride height compared to stock or other bottom-mounted camber plates. I believe they also provide a bit more caster than the GC plates.

I think you're still going to get more outside tire wear with -3.5 degrees of camber in front if you're on RE71R and on concrete.

[smg1138]

Originally Posted by AFRichZC6

I have the GC camber plates. I haven't gotten close to the bumpstops in front. There's plenty of camber adjustment (at least -4.5 degrees with camber bolt adjustment at the strut). However, there's not much caster to be gained. IIRC, I only got about 0.5 degree more caster.

Yeah, I was wondering about how much more positive caster they offered. Is the caster adjustable or fixed on the GC plates? For whatever reason I get uneven caster left to right with the stock mounts.

[kinghurl]

Originally Posted by smg1138

So, I really need to pull the trigger on some camber plates. I tried using camber bolts to get more camber up front, but they ended up slipping. I can get up to -2.8 with just the 14mm crash bolts in my RCE T2's, but that still isn't enough for Autox. Getting noticeable outside wear in the front tires after every event.

What are some good plates to look at? Is anyone using the GroundControl plates? Seems like those would be optimal since the design actually adds more suspension travel. Definitely don't want anything that raises ride height.

I've used the raceseng and a couple others. The billet aluminum hats from Ditech have been on my car for over 18 months now and in terms of fit, finish and function, are the best I've used. They are quiet, easy to adjust and easy to lock into final settings. I can get over 5 degrees camber and almost 6.5 caster. Good quality pieces. Autox/street car.

https://diftech.com/collections/susp...=8186838220904

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[kinghurl]

Originally Posted by kinghurl

I've used the raceseng and a couple others. The billet aluminum hats from Ditech have been on my car for over 18 months now and in terms of fit, finish and function, are the best I've used. They are quiet, easy to adjust and easy to lock into final settings. I can get over 5 degrees camber and almost 6.5 caster. Good quality pieces. Autox/street car.

https://diftech.com/collections/susp...=8186838220904

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Diftech, not ditech. Autocorrect!

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[AFRichZC6]

Originally Posted by smg1138

Yeah, I was wondering about how much more positive caster they offered. Is the caster adjustable or fixed on the GC plates? For whatever reason I get uneven caster left to right with the stock mounts.

The GC plates have caster adjustment, but the range of adjustment isn't much.