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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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04-26-2018, 07:00 AM | #1 |
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first maintenance need help!!!!
right now my car is 7k
being on track once and i always heel and toe so here is my maintenance plan 1.engine oil motul b100 ow20 2.oil filter hks 3.air filter k&n 4.transmission oil motul gear 300 5.brake fluid project mu 335 6.brake pad roject mu club racer pad 7.rotor bda 500 8.brake line stoptech stainless steel any suggestion ? am i get everything right ? first maintenance need help!!!! Last edited by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com; 04-26-2018 at 07:12 AM. |
04-26-2018, 07:30 AM | #2 |
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I only see 1 liter of oil in your cart. Spec says 5.4L of oil.
I don't track my car right now so maybe there's some magic there but no way i would spend $110 a liter for brake fluid. ATE type 200 or super blue if you can get it is dot 4 and like $20 a liter. Anything particularly wrong with the oem oil filter? It seems to be the consensus choice around here and I can usually pick one up for $12 or less. I'm out of my league when it comes to pads and rotors for track use. I've not seen anywhere that slotted rotors provide huge benefits. Only thing i've heard is that it can help with bite a bit. Have you had brake issues on the track before? Fade? Personally I would run oem rotors and I can usually find them for <$50 a rotor. Someone will probably come along with more track knowledge and can help you out with some of the details and fill in for my lack of knowledge. |
04-26-2018, 08:18 AM | #3 |
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You may want to pickup a heavier oil since track temps thin the oil too much. IMO its worthwhile to get a baffled oil catch can as well. If you plan on tracking often, pickup a spare coil in case cyl 1 goes (p351 CEL) and put some heat tape or something to protect it from going bad. Also wrap the existing coil (front passenger side = cyl 1). Its good practice to know how to wrench certain items before you get in a bad situation so you aren't twiddling your thumbs at the track. Don't worry its really simple, just remove 3 bolts on the ecu on the passenger side and move it out of the way. The plugs are a bit trickier but really easy if you have a deep socket and a 3" extension.
It seems like you may be new to tracking based on your question. More expensive parts don't always mean its the best. IMO its absurd to spend that much on brake fluid and oil filter. As Firecruiser stated the oem filter and ATE 200 works perfectly, both I also use. Just a thought and I may be anal about this, but I changed my trans fluid pretty early with a few thousand miles just for a peace of mind to ensure no metal shavings were present before driving it hard. When I drained it, I didn't see much foreign matter at all so it should be ok if you don't. Once you start regularly going to the track pickup a spare set of rotors, pads, and calipers as a backup. Have fun, be safe, and keep your ego at home.
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04-26-2018, 08:52 AM | #4 | |
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yea that brake fluid is soooo expensive, would give it try tho! since it is going to be one or two years for another change it was a bad choice for a drill rotor tho, i found a video that says slotted rotors have better performances. but anyway already ordered! |
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04-26-2018, 09:14 AM | #5 | |
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being track 3 times with everything stock scion 2016 frs [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13lZnjhTLsE&t=734s[/ame] and 1 time with everything stock 2017 toyota 86 [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP1EizPUCOM[/ame] [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLkvgboMOw0[/ame] welcome to give some tips on track day !!!!! time to mod the car, i need better tires and brake so that lead me to this mod my brake was no bite at top range will got little bite in middle range bottom was fine tho find it out when i entry the track and waiting for take off after each section, also on the way back to home from the track that is my first time mod brakes tho also the first time for me to maintenance the car hope the best maybe i will just give all the part to Toyota dealer and ask them to do it or i got one of my friend who did maintenance all the time to his nd mx5 still thinking which one is best i am more preferring to my friend which i can study those thing and do it my self next time we did mxp rs ti tip cat back together that was lots of fun!!! already buy the enkei rpf1 wheels with 17x8 +45 with re71 245 40 17 should be a huge improve for my lap times yea i think the oil filter maybe a bad move, already ordered will give it try. next time maybe just back to oem filter yea one of my friends also said that, don't knowing much sooo better keep it factor recommend thx for all the help tho |
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04-26-2018, 10:02 AM | #6 |
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I'll watch the other vids later, just fast fwd'd thru parts of the 1st vid. A few comments on that:
-both hands should always be on the wheel. The only time your right hand isn't, is when you shift. Many times you have your right hand resting before you shift. -the video is a bit washed out and the camera angle is hard to tell whether you are hitting your marks consistently. What I mean by that is the same point to turn in, apex, and track out. You want to achieve inch (or cm in your case... lol) perfect marks in using ALL the track. -hard to tell braking as well, but identify markers that do no move. Most tracks will have countdown signs, but not all turns will have them. In the case where they do not, use for example the start of the rumble strip or a unique tree to gauge where to brake and turn in. Typically the most time to be found is in the development of how and when you brake. It is totally different from street driving. Brake hard and firm and be ready to manually pulse in the event of squirming- ALWAYS in a straight line. Then slowly release the brake, turn in, start to apply throttle around apex, unwind while smoothly going to maximum throttle. As the brake pedal goes up, your gas goes down. -I'm sure you've heard this a million times - look farther ahead and thru the car in front. Nothing should be a surprise by the time you get to it. Most of the 1st vid you were following the miata and on corner exit, it was pulling on you. Why? - his exit speed was much higher. I like to experiment with different lines when following, super late apex (this is NOT the same as late braking) or the traditional line to get a feel for what is better to setup for the next turn. Depending on the radius of the turn, you should either begin application of throttle or already be flat footed. My guess is the combination of the amount of braking and when the miata started throttle is why they were pulling on you. Overall pretty good for only a handful of events. Good to see that your wheel inputs are smooth and constant, not sawing back and forth. If you get a chance have an instructor help you with how to oversteer out of tight turns using your right foot to maximize exit speed. Tires would be the best single item to invest in for quicker laps, but your focus should be on the appropriate lines at this stage. I personally run on 17x8 wheels with 245/40 tires, some do 17x9 with 255 tires. The sky is the limit on compound, but for us mere mortals where cost is always a factor do your research on price vs grip vs durability vs responsiveness. Brakes are a close second - I run WRX fronts since they are super easy to swap pads. If you have a gaming console/computer, I've found that a a driving simulator like project cars and a wheel helped me practice offtrack without risk of physical harm.
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Last edited by hyper4mance; 04-26-2018 at 10:22 AM. |
04-26-2018, 10:45 AM | #7 | |
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also i think nd is a bit fast on acceleration from 60km to 100km nd mx5 has higher rate for weight/power also on the first video where the braking zone l am brake early, i just lift the gas pedal for some safety space, he is down shift where i don't it will be way to close to him if i dont brake early! u should check my second video, i improve my lap time by 3 secs and i was chasing on a evo automatic!!!! still on stock tires but i keep them like new never burnout or drift just for that trackday hoping hear some feed back!!!! Last edited by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com; 04-26-2018 at 11:06 AM. |
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06-16-2018, 02:58 PM | #9 |
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06-16-2018, 06:41 PM | #10 | |
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It’s a common misconception they the ND has a better power to weight ratio than the twins, just do the math and you’ll see that isn’t true: ND Miata 2,332 lbs. / 155 horsepower = 15.05 lbs. for each horse to move Twins 2,774 lbs. / 200-205 horsepower = 13.87-13.53 lbs. for each horse to move |
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06-18-2018, 06:18 AM | #11 | |
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no matter what, i am slower than nd at that time just done some change to my car, really want test them out earliest track day on august tho |
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06-18-2018, 06:39 AM | #12 |
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some feed back on my firstmaintenance
motul 8100 for engine motul 300 for transs motul 300ls for diff have not using the project mu brake fluid yet hawk dtc-60 for front brake pad cause project mu race club is back order 2 months already stoptech rotors and brakeline k&n drop in air filter k&n oil filter refill my coolant it was going sooo fast 10k already used it to half between min and max marks here is my feedback did everything on 10k engine transmission diff much smooth most important is my squeal setup enkei rpf1 17x8 +45 on re71r 245 40 17 for hawk dtc-60 brake pads too much brake dust for daily drive but good feeling tho could use for daily drive without any problem if u can live with brake dust and little bit squeeze sound for me i like that sound first wheel pic is took after i bedding my pad and rotor 20 mins drive 3 time slow 100 to 20 braking follow with 3 time hard braking then 15 mins cursing to compare how much brake dust on that run the second pic is my rear wheel i think i did smell some brake on my second hard braking that curve map is what i am feeling from daily drive it black is the oem pad red is the hawk dtc 60 rush drawing just a idea! overall really enjoy my set up 10 out of 10 Last edited by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com; 06-18-2018 at 06:51 AM. |
06-18-2018, 03:17 PM | #13 |
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I've had leaking issues with the HKS oil filter. The O-ring that was provided on mine was damaged. Just look out for this as it was shipped directly from HKS to me.
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06-18-2018, 11:24 PM | #14 | |
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Hks was back order 2 months lead me change To k&n Last month when I got my rims , one of them was Damaged on lip I did order another one Get my lesson check every thing when I got the item |
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