[Solved] Bought the AT 86, unusually slow. Any ideas?

[mrg666]

11-12 seconds is telling you that your engine is not running efficiently. I would replace spark plugs (maybe coil packs too, ask your dealer) and have an injection cleaning service. I would also check air filter and replace it if dirty. Automatic transmission should be okay, it is a very reliable one. Your mpg should be low too although you might not care about it in Dubai. Good mpg means efficient and powerful engine.

[darksnyder]

Originally Posted by mrg666

11-12 seconds is telling you that your engine is not running efficiently. I would replace spark plugs (maybe coil packs too, ask your dealer) and have an injection cleaning service. I would also check air filter and replace it if dirty. Automatic transmission should be okay, it is a very reliable one. Your mpg should be low too although you might not care about it in Dubai. Good mpg means efficient and powerful engine.

You're correct about the mpg. I noticed reduced mpg as well. which happens to coincide with the date i got the oil changes and the air filter installed. Got it installed on the 17/03 and since then a drop in the mpg can be observed.

I have a doubt on the air filter. Although its relatively new, so shouldn't be dirty, will check it anyways. But it might be possible it is a dud.

[gravitylover]

Originally Posted by darksnyder

Haha yes indeed, they have seperate licenses for AT and MT. Though MT can drive both.

But due to this, buying an MT becomes a very big drawback here. Usually we switch cars with buddies, like if I need practicality I will exchange with my 2 door coupe with my buddy who has a 4 door sedan. So as almost everyone has an AT license, it becomes a handicap if you get yourself a MT. Cant trade with buddies, wife cant drive, and so on. And hence, poor resale values of MT as well.

A used '13 86 MT might run a difference of up to $2,000 as compared to similar AT.

How is it determined which license you qualify for? I assume there's a different road test for each type of license. Can you go from an AT to MT license easily or are you stuck with the AT license once you've gotten it?

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

Off topic I know but it's the same in Australia. I don't see the joke regardless of how poorly it's told..

How is a person supposed to acquire the proper license if they're not able to go out and drive an MT car? Are there special 'training centers' or can you only go on private property? Do you then have to take a special road test that's different than the one for an AT license? The bad joke part is, 35 years ago as a teenager when I started driving, there would have been no way for me to learn to drive a stick in the suburban hell where I lived if I couldn't just go get one and start figuring it out in traffic. I don't think there's any good way to learn other than to throw yourself into the fire and make it happen.

[darksnyder]

[quote]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

How is it determined which license you qualify for? I assume there's a different road test for each type of license. Can you go from an AT to MT license easily or are you stuck with the AT license once you've gotten it?

Actually there is no criteria on how a person is determined if he can drive a MT or AT. It is basically what you apply for. So when you apply for a new license, you have the option to choose AT or MT. Then the classes and the test are scheduled accordingly. Most of the classes are same, apart from the initial ones where they MT have to go through additional classes over clutch control, shifting, stalling, etc. And there are a few additional checks in the final exam for the MT as opposed to AT, like shifting in to the right gear, not stalling, etc.

The main reason for going for AT is that obtaining a license in Dubai is difficult and pretty expensive. It common to hear people failing 3 or 4 times before getting the license. So everyone takes the safe route, just worry about lane change and positioning and not worry about shifting gears. I got mine in first attempt and it cost me around USD 1,500.

And yes, you can shift to AT to MT anytime by taking a few additional classes and giving the road test again.

[darksnyder]

UPDATE: Did another run today with all nannies off, manual mode. Outside temp around 32 degrees C. Fuel tank was full though. Still average around 11 seconds. Talked with the garage owner, have an appointment tomorrow.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

How is a person supposed to acquire the proper license if they're not able to go out and drive an MT car?

It's the same here in the UK. Dubai inherited many road laws/legislation from us I believe so that's why they have the same. Pass your test on an auto, you can only drive an auto. The only reason that people here do that is that they can't deal with changing gears, I know no-one that has an auto license.

[darksnyder]

Update: Went to the garage. The air filter was clean. The guy test drove the car and stated that the issues seems to be the with the DI. Although its not bad as some other cars, but there is slightly something off with the DI. So in short he has recommended changing the injectors before it cause damage to the engine*sigh*. Waiting for the quotation, in the meanwhile just got the MAF cleaned and took the car home.

Noticed one more thing. There is a slight stutter you can call it during the lower RPMs. At the higher RPMs it seems to be fine. Especially cruising at 5th or 6th gear, around 2.5k RPMs and then accelerating, the car would stutter and you can actually see the RPM needle fluctuate +-200RPMs. edit: found a video pretty similar, although not as aggravated as his :
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wKQJfk9qRg"]Toyota gt 86 rpm rev flickering during acceleration brz frs - YouTube[/ame]

My 90,000km major service is also due soon. Further, I am also planning of getting the Borla UEL plus the stage 2 tune as well after a month.

Now the question is the garage owner ruled out the injector cleaning. He says it just BS. However the toyota dealer offers an injector cleaning service for about $100. Is that any good? Can I top that up with changing the spark plugs, leave it as it is for now, defer the inevitable for a month and combine everything with the 90k service + headers + Ecutek?

[DandoX]

Originally Posted by darksnyder

Update: Went to the garage. The air filter was clean. The guy test drove the car and stated that the issues seems to be the with the DI. Although its not bad as some other cars, but there is slightly something off with the DI. So in short he has recommended changing the injectors before it cause damage to the engine*sigh*. Waiting for the quotation, in the meanwhile just got the MAF cleaned and took the car home.

Noticed one more thing. There is a slight stutter you can call it during the lower RPMs. At the higher RPMs it seems to be fine. Especially cruising at 5th or 6th gear, around 2.5k RPMs and then accelerating, the car would stutter and you can actually see the RPM needle fluctuate +-200RPMs. edit: found a video pretty similar, although not as aggravated as his :

My 90,000km major service is also due soon. Further, I am also planning of getting the Borla UEL plus the stage 2 tune as well after a month.

Now the question is the garage owner ruled out the injector cleaning. He says it just BS. However the toyota dealer offers an injector cleaning service for about $100. Is that any good? Can I top that up with changing the spark plugs, leave it as it is for now, defer the inevitable for a month and combine everything with the 90k service + headers + Ecutek?

Not sure in Dubai but the injector cleaning here in the states is BS. They just put some shit in your fuel tank then charge you too much $.

Looking at your video something is clearly off without a doubt. I would get an obd2 adaptor and connect a phone or laptop and check the stats. See if a code is thrown, that may point you in the right direction as to what's causing that rpm fluctuating.

[bcj]

2.5k in 5th or 6th and romping the loud peddle means you're asking too much of it.
Shift down. Geeze. Sure it's going to knock.
That sort of rpm would be fine for a diesel, but that would be knocking too, "Because Diesel".

[HKz]

Originally Posted by bcj

2.5k in 5th or 6th and romping the loud peddle means you're asking too much of it.
Shift down. Geeze. Sure it's going to knock.
That sort of rpm would be fine for a diesel, but that would be knocking too, "Because Diesel".

don't think so, OP is driving an auto & going WOT in 5th or 6th even around 2.5 Ks in either MT or AT shouldn't really do any harm...

[bcj]

Torque converter would be locked up, no different than manual.
It'll lurch and sound weird like any other over stressed machine.
Shift down. Even get the free rev-matching - WOOT!

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by HKz

don't think so, OP is driving an auto & going WOT in 5th or 6th even around 2.5 Ks in either MT or AT shouldn't really do any harm...

This motor knocks a lot around 3k. It's not good to lug it in that range.

OP. I'd have it checked for codes, you have something abnormal going on. Does it pop at idle or anything weird on startup?

[Lantanafrs2]

That thing isn't right. I'm surprised no cel

[shiumai]

Originally Posted by DandoX

Looking at your video something is clearly off without a doubt.

That is not the OP's video.