Oil change intervals America vs Europe

[Roth]

5 years or 100k in Norway too.
I also have a full coverage insurance, which will pay for ALL the mechanical issues until the car is 10yo or 200k km. That's why I'm more than ok, changing the oil every 15k

[NordicGT86]

Originally Posted by JIM THEO

Isn't the viscosity itself that describes a good oil for our engines and so far there aren't big differences in European and USA engine oils and additive packages on them, there are remarkable American oil companies for heavy use say Redline, as European say Motul Fuchs Elf and so on.
Viscosity index, Total base number (longevity/service intervals) and more importantly HTHS (stability on continuous high temp) is what we should search on a good oil no matter if it is 0/20 (ILSAC/fuel economy reasons only) 5/30 (only Mobil1 AFAIK is ILSAC) or higher viscosity!

For heavy street use or track driving an HTHS index less than 3,5 may be detrimental for the engine if we haven't an oil cooler which leads us to an oil of 5W30 and higher viscosity, only repeated UOAs may tell the truth about the oil we use, oil service intervals and driving habits.
Otherwise we should choose a very good >=5W30 oil as the factory oil sensor is in the correct place on the engine block and reads real oil temps not lower than those the oil achieves as other manufacturers do.
So IMHO the answer is NO, 0W20 isn't adequate for heavy street use even in cold climates!

What about the SAPS oil level for heavy street use? mid SAPS oils or high SAPS? A5/B5, A3/B3, C3. What is your opinion?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by NordicGT86

Is 0W20 the adequate viscosity for driving hard a GT86?

0W20 is fine as long as you are running a quality oil.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125178

[JIM THEO]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

0W20 is fine as long as you are running a quality oil.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125178

Factory suggests 0W20 for economy reasons only (ILSAC), why to use such low viscosity oil in 300V series when you track your car, this 0W20 isn't good for economy nor for high protection as a 5W30 that may save your engine in special occasions?
Of course this is your own car but better safe than sorry!

[JIM THEO]

Originally Posted by NordicGT86

What about the SAPS oil level for heavy street use? mid SAPS oils or high SAPS? A5/B5, A3/B3, C3. What is your opinion?

I'll tell you what I do with my cars, I find a very good oil suitable for street and rare track use (I always change it after each track) that I change every 5-7.500 kms maximum, no matter it's API/ACEA specifications but a good oil has many specs, usually high in SAPS for better protection as I never owned a diesel w/DPF and most of us have removed the first catalyst (in every case better have a damaged catalyst than a broken engine), usually higher in viscosity from the factory oil due to hot Greek climate (I always warm my car before rev it) from a known and reliable company, Motul, Redline, Fuchs are some of my favorites!
Oil choice factors for me are HTHS, NOACK evaporation loss, Viscosity index, TBN not API/ACEA classification.

But this is my opinion, my driving style, my car, since now I owned three turbo Subarus the first Impreza GT MY00 after 350.000km still runs fine in it's forth owner except some turbo and peripherals change and the other two as far as I know have not engine problems so far!

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by JIM THEO

Factory suggests 0W20 for economy reasons only (ILSAC), why to use such low viscosity oil in 300V series when you track your car, this 0W20 isn't good for economy nor for high protection as a 5W30 that may save your engine in special occasions?
Of course this is your own car but better safe than sorry!

Not my car.

If you actually read the thread you can see an oil analysis was done and it was recommended to run up to 7k miles on a car that was regularly tracked, boosted, and on e85. If you want to continue to argue against actual evidence, go ahead. They have a term for that. It is called "willful ignorance."

[JIM THEO]

Each car and driver is different I already mentioned it above, it isn't a case one size fits all!
You have an oil cooler which means low oil temps thus no need for a quite high HTHS oil.
Even car mileage, climate conditions, fuel quality, modifications, dust (aftermarket free flowing filters degrade the oil) etc affect oil life and behavior, when running on E85 is completely different story from running 91 or 93 pump gas (95 or 98 RON in Europe), detonation is minimal as fuel deposits that degrade your oil.

I can't see why someone should stay to a non ILSAC 0W20 oil when can have a thicker 5W30 with better safe margins except of the little lower oil temperatures (thinner oil dissipates heat better).

So you are right, IN YOUR CASE 0W20 300V based on evidence is enough, but let me know would you suggest for everyone that track regularly his car to use this viscosity Motul on pump gas without oil cooler?
Have you seen repeatedly UoA of cars heavily used with no oil cooler same as yours?
That's the point!

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by JIM THEO

Each car and driver is different I already mentioned it above, it isn't a case one size fits all!
You have an oil cooler which means low oil temps thus no need for a quite high HTHS oil.
Even car mileage, climate conditions, fuel quality, modifications, dust (aftermarket free flowing filters degrade the oil) etc affect oil life and behavior, when running on E85 is completely different story from running 91 or 93 pump gas (95 or 98 RON in Europe), detonation is minimal as fuel deposits that degrade your oil.

I can't see why someone should stay to a non ILSAC 0W20 oil when can have a thicker 5W30 with better safe margins except of the little lower oil temperatures (thinner oil dissipates heat better).

So you are right, IN YOUR CASE 0W20 300V based on evidence is enough, but let me know would you suggest for everyone that track regularly his car to use this viscosity Motul on pump gas without oil cooler?
Have you seen repeatedly UoA of cars heavily used with no oil cooler same as yours?
That's the point!

LOL I actually run 5W30, but will be checking out some 0W20 later this year as I can now more accurately monitor the car(I have more gauges).

Again you need to read, that example was not my car and is a far more extreme example then my car.

I am not going to search for you but there are plenty of UoA's to look at on the FA20. Pretty sure there is a thread around here dedicated to it.

[JIM THEO]

This is my opinion I don't suggest you to follow my approach, what I am sure for is that a 0W20 oil even 300V or Redline can't withstand continuous very high temperatures if you haven't oil cooler, especially if you have some oil consumption with the thinner oil stay on a 0W30/5W30 with good HTHS >=3, bear in mind Redline/300V are of the thicker 0W20 w/high HTHS oils in this range although they don't cover ILSAC specification that means they don't favor fuel economy.
A Mobil1 5W30 (ILSAC spec) covers both cases fuel economy and engine protection...

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by JIM THEO

This is my opinion I don't suggest you to follow my approach, what I am sure for is that a 0W20 oil even 300V or Redline can't withstand continuous very high temperatures if you haven't oil cooler, especially if you have some oil consumption with the thinner oil stay on a 0W30/5W30 with good HTHS >=3, bear in mind Redline/300V are of the thicker 0W20 w/high HTHS oils in this range although they don't cover ILSAC specification that means they don't favor fuel economy.
A Mobil1 5W30 (ILSAC spec) covers both cases fuel economy and engine protection...

Oil breakdown from temp with a good synthetic is not the issue, it is pressure loss with temp with this motor in particular. This is all common and searchable info on the forum.

[JIM THEO]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Man you Greeks don't give up. No wonder you won at Thermopylae.

Oil breakdown from temp with a good synthetic is not the issue, it is pressure loss with temp with this motor in particular. This is all common and searchable info on the forum.

What is wrong with you?
When we talk about cars and oils stay on this, do you know me, do you know where I am coming from, my past, my experiences, do you want me to talk about countries and wars or what?
You say a 0W20 is ok for all purposes and then that there is an issue with oil pressure, is it ok or not according to you?

[NordicGT86]

Here an interesting thread with data using a good oil Motul 300V comparing 0W20 vs. 5W30 Test Data

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91820

According to the data, as expected, 5w30 manage better the increment of temperature. The conclusion is to use 5W30 without oil cooler. isn´t it?

The more interesting part is the second graph, which includes (green line) new data using 5w30 with oil cooler. The maximum temperature is lower than without cooler, as expected. However the oil preassure in this case behaves like a 0w20.

Is this because the drop of preassure due to the oil cooler?

If I am interpreting the data correctly, even in track use (some laps with your friends) if the oil temperature doesn´t rise to the sky and you don´t pretent to join Gazoo racing team. It seems to be better to use 5W30 without oil cooler.

What do you think?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by JIM THEO

What is wrong with you?
When we talk about cars and oils stay on this, do you know me, do you know where I am coming from, my past, my experiences, do you want me to talk about countries and wars or what?
You say a 0W20 is ok for all purposes and then that there is an issue with oil pressure, is it ok or not according to you?

If you are offended by that, I apologize. It was a joke meant to lighten up the thread. Me>>

Anyway. The original question posted by NordicGT86 that I was answering was

Is 0W20 the adequate viscosity for driving hard a GT86?

I did not interpret this to mean track use and have never claimed 0W20 is good for all purposes. For the most part, it is fine.

Track use is a whole other situation. If you are serious about it, it is up to you to monitor your own car. Climate, session duration, and modifications to the car will dictate what you need to run. If you are doing four 15 minutes at low ambient temp with a car with just bolt on mods, yeah you are probably fine with a good 0W20. If it's hot and you are running 30 minutes, then you should probably consider additional protection.

[JIM THEO]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

If you are offended by that, I apologize. It was a joke meant to lighten up the thread. Me>>

Accepted!

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I did not interpret this to mean track use and have never claimed 0W20 is good for all purposes. For the most part, it is fine.

Track use is a whole other situation. If you are serious about it, it is up to you to monitor your own car. Climate, session duration, and modifications to the car will dictate what you need to run. If you are doing four 15 minutes at low ambient temp with a car with just bolt on mods, yeah you are probably fine with a good 0W20. If it's hot and you are running 30 minutes, then you should probably consider additional protection.

I disagree that is fine for the most part cause at least here you can have spirited driving in mountain roads whenever you want while ambient temps the summer are quite often above 40+C degrees!

I can't see even one reason to have a non ILSAC 0W20 rather a good 5W30, most cars already have aftermarket filters exhaust and remap which degrades more the oil (dust, increased engine heat), what is your gain, lubricity, temperatures, engine protection, economy or what?
Don't tell me about factory recommendations cause I'll answer you stay with factory exhaust and maps...