STX Rules and Setup Questions

[JoeCFRS]

For those of you running the Mann engineering AST 4150, which camber plates are you running? Im have a little difficulty finding which ones will work with them. I just ordered a set.

[conedodging]

In a bit of a pickle. I disassembled my KW V3s without marking which springs belong to which end, and threw all the pieces into a box. I've got 2x 6" and 2x 7" (all 400lb). Does it make more sense to have the shorter spring in front or rear?

[Silver Ignition]

Originally Posted by conedodging

In a bit of a pickle. I disassembled my KW V3s without marking which springs belong to which end, and threw all the pieces into a box. I've got 2x 6" and 2x 7" (all 400lb). Does it make more sense to have the shorter spring in front or rear?

I did 400lb RCE springs on my v3 and all four were the same part number...

[justint5387]

I would run the longer ones in front since you are more prone to binding in the front than the rear.

[conedodging]

Originally Posted by justint5387

I would run the longer ones in front since you are more prone to binding in the front than the rear.

This setup is from Annie's twin from 2014 or so. She told me 6" in the front, and 7" in the rear. They are also using the stock kw helper springs.

Now I'm tempted to get another set of 7" and just run that all the way around...

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by conedodging

This setup is from Annie's twin from 2014 or so. She told me 6" in the front, and 7" in the rear. They are also using the stock kw helper springs.

Now I'm tempted to get another set of 7" and just run that all the way around...

Same as RCE Tarmac 2's right?
I happen to have the front set off the car right now. I could measure and check part numbers when i get home this evening if it helps. pretty sure my front and rear springs are the same.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by conedodging

This setup is from Annie's twin from 2014 or so. She told me 6" in the front, and 7" in the rear. They are also using the stock kw helper springs.

Now I'm tempted to get another set of 7" and just run that all the way around...

I think the reason shorter springs are sometimes used on the front is the lack of shock body length available for threading due to the knuckle mount.

I got a different set of springs to try this year and ordered what I thought was right based on the size I was told to get, and they're longer than the ones that came on my coilovers... Of course, those weren't original so I have no idea what stock spring length actually was.

I haven't put the car on the ground, but I'd guess it will sit about as low as it did on the old springs and there's still some room to go lower... I actually lowered the perches 30mm, and the official height difference should only be 26mm so I probably have to go up. I expect to be doing a bunch of adjusting anyway.

[Simmons]

Getting ready for the season.

Simmons

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by bmacfrs

Same as RCE Tarmac 2's right?
I happen to have the front set off the car right now. I could measure and check part numbers when i get home this evening if it helps. pretty sure my front and rear springs are the same.

@conedodging
My springs are 7 inches. only markings are RCE 70-170 15J15. All 4 marked the same.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by Simmons

Getting ready for the season.

Simmons

Strange post from you, I don't see an asking price...

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by bmacfrs

@conedodging
My springs are 7 inches. only markings are RCE 70-170 15J15. All 4 marked the same.

Correct. T2s are 7" all around.

Having said that, the KW-supplied springs sagged quite a bit, it's something to keep an eye on especially since it will change your effective spring preload, and therefore rake/ride height.

In contrast to that, my Hyperco springs are, after 30k+ miles, the same height exactly as the new pair of springs that arrived a few weeks ago.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by CoolHandMoss

So I'm seeing both options advocated in different threads and I'm wondering if there is a consensus among STX racers on this matter...

Pedal dance or button press for racing? I'm new to racing the twin and so far my limited experiments have indicated that the long button press allows me to drive well beyond the fast angle of slip without detecting any electronic assist and also that the brake bias seems to be much better with the pedal dance. I supposed the preference is a matter of if one's braking techniques tend to trigger ice mode? If not then go pedal dance but if so then go long press?

Originally Posted by Twinz

The long press method still leaves the electronic diff-assist active, but it almost never intervened when I ran in CS trim last year. (Twice over the course of the whole season IIRC) The long press method leaves EBD active which suits me well.

The Pedal Dance apparently kills the diff assist *and* EBD.

Twinz is correct.

As to which is faster, there was a bump on the practice course at nats right on one of the apexes. If I nailed the gas hard enough I'd trigger the e-diff pretty hard, such that you could feel the car throw an anchor out for a full second before it continued accelerating.

Obviously when it intervened, I didn't set fast times. But then I compared several laps with the pedal dance vs just delaying my throttle input a bit there. With the pedal dance I could get within 1 tenth of my fast time with just the 5 second button press, but my times were much more inconsistent and it just seemed like more work to get the car through the course. EBD probably tidies up your driving a bit and makes it easier to place the car where you want. YMMV.

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by bslate3

I’m gonna beat the dead horse. 245 vs. 255 tires.

Last year I started on 255 RE71’s and had decent success. Went to 245 RE71’s for Nationals and struggled for grip the whole time even though the tires had 20 runs on them.

I want to give the Rivals a try and still on the fence with 245 vs 255.

I may have already warned you in PMs but it's worth sharing publicly.

I ran the 255s last season. I developed a tendency to underperform on courses with more than a couple big digs, and in the interest of saving my fragile (yet still oversized) ego I largely blame the tires. Fresh 245s mounted this weekend, time to put up or shut up...

Anyway, I think there's one course type where the 255 does well: a high speed momentum maintenance course where no one is really going to 3rd anywhere so that extra 1-2mph you get is building a small advantage in the fast spots. But this is roughly 3 hundredths of a second advantage over 75 feet; you need a lot of time near/at the rev limiter to make this work. In virtually any other course I think the 245 might be faster.

If not, I'll need to find another excuse to save my ego.

[Simmons]

Originally Posted by renfield90

Strange post from you, I don't see an asking price...

LOL....everything is For Sale