Flippin Dip Stick!

[cjd]

You're replacing the crush washer in the drain plug? If no, chance that's the cause. First see how much oil drains... But I'm in the camp of "it's low"

[GrantedTaken]

If you weren't planning on changing the oil, just add a qt. and check again.
If same, repeat.

[JeremyR]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

One of these might help? http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/supe...2013-ft86.html

pricey for what it is, but i've been thinking of getting it anyway because reading the stock dipstick kind of sucks

[Mr.ac]

Your low bro.
Or on an unlevel surface.
That's only two (possible) reasons why you can't read your dipstick

[HKz]

..in my experience checking the oil level through the dipstick for the twins is pretty hit or miss, kinda just tells you whether there's oil or not.. if you know how much you put in on the last oil change and you know there isn't a leak then i wouldn't be too worried and take that dipstick reading as good.

[Thorpedo]

Rub dipstick with scotchbrite.

Run engine for 5 min.

PARK ON LEVEL GROUND.

Shut engine off, pull dipstick.

Let sit for 3 minutes.

Insert dipstick, pull out dipstick

Read both sides, lowest side is right.

[mjanmohammad]

Originally Posted by Beachin86

I almost bought that drain valve but I wasn't sure if it was magnetic. I like to see how much metal has built up, so I have a magnetic drain plug (no valve).

As far as FT86SF's dip stick, from what I can tell it just has a button that relieves the pressure caused by the O-Ring. I think unscrewing the oil fill cap has the same effect, but I'm no expert. It also seemed a bit overpriced for a dip stick, so I didn't give into it.

you shouldn't be seeing a significant amount of metal on a magnetic drain plug at all. 90% of the FA20 engine is non-ferrous metals so they aren't magnetic.

My recommendation for you here is to get the Fumoto valve, and send a sample to Blackstone for analysis when you do change the oil.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by mjanmohammad

Fumoto valve

Had to google that and obviously had to buy one. Hahaha.

Thanks for the tip!

[bcj]

If you're really serious about ferrous metals in the oil,
get some neodymium magnets to put on the outside of the oil filter.
It all gets stuck in the filter and you can re-use them on the next filter.

[mjanmohammad]

Originally Posted by ermax

Had to google that and obviously had to buy one. Hahaha.

Thanks for the tip!

I installed one on every single car I owned and it makes oil changes a breeze, and way less messy. Pro tip for the BRZ though, get the one without the nipple, I believe its the "s" designation for short. The nipple sticks out below the metal cover and gets hit by debris.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by mjanmohammad

I installed one on every single car I owned and it makes oil changes a breeze, and way less messy. Pro tip for the BRZ though, get the one without the nipple, I believe its the "s" designation for short. The nipple sticks out below the metal cover and gets hit by debris.

I read a review on Amazon that it sticks out 3-5mm past the engine cover on the FRS. So I went with the SX that has the really short nipple. I thought about going without a nipple but I live right off a river so the wind rips at my house most days and makes a mess when changing the oil. Hopefully the stuby version doesn't come past the cover.

[mjanmohammad]

Originally Posted by ermax

I read a review on Amazon that it sticks out 3-5mm past the engine cover on the FRS. So I went with the SX that has the really short nipple. I thought about going without a nipple but I live right off a river so the wind rips at my house most days and makes a mess when changing the oil. Hopefully the stuby version doesn't come past the cover.

My workaround is a clear flexible plastic tube that fits snugly around the end of the valve without a nipple, and doesn't interfere with the valve switch operation. drain that straight into my oil receptacle.

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by ermax

I read a review on Amazon that it sticks out 3-5mm past the engine cover on the FRS. So I went with the SX that has the really short nipple. I thought about going without a nipple but I live right off a river so the wind rips at my house most days and makes a mess when changing the oil. Hopefully the stuby version doesn't come past the cover.

F108S for the win!

[Beachin86]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

@Tcoat page

Bring in the cavalry! XD

Originally Posted by cjd

You're replacing the crush washer in the drain plug? If no, chance that's the cause. First see how much oil drains... But I'm in the camp of "it's low"

I did do this on the last change but almost forgot those need to be changed as well. Picked one up from the dealer last night. Thanks for the reminder.

Originally Posted by GrantedTaken

If you weren't planning on changing the oil, just add a qt. and check again.
If same, repeat.

The problem with this is not knowing how much was in there. I was scared of overfilling, so I just swapped it out.

Originally Posted by mjanmohammad

you shouldn't be seeing a significant amount of metal on a magnetic drain plug at all. 90% of the FA20 engine is non-ferrous metals so they aren't magnetic.

My recommendation for you here is to get the Fumoto valve, and send a sample to Blackstone for analysis when you do change the oil.

I DID have a bit of gunk buildup on the OEM plug when I swapped it out. I did all my fluid swaps first thing when I got the car. This is now my second oil change, and no gunk on the new drain plug. I would send in the oil but I'm lazy and overwhelmed with work to put in that effort.

Originally Posted by bcj

If you're really serious about ferrous metals in the oil,
get some neodymium magnets to put on the outside of the oil filter.
It all gets stuck in the filter and you can re-use them on the next filter.

Interesting, never heard of this one but it makes sense. Would this restrict the oil flow?

Originally Posted by mjanmohammad

I installed one on every single car I owned and it makes oil changes a breeze, and way less messy. Pro tip for the BRZ though, get the one without the nipple, I believe its the "s" designation for short. The nipple sticks out below the metal cover and gets hit by debris.

That's a shame, I love nipples.


Allright, here's the verdict. I swapped the oil out last night. There was still quite a bit in there, but I'm sure we'd all agree it's considered low for these cars. I had about ~4.8 qt drain out and it was pretty dark. There were no signs of leaks whatsoever. I took off the under panel and there wasn't single drop to be found. I guess these cars just eat oil? My driving habits: DD, no track use, daily stop-n-go commute both ways in LA traffic so I don't even get to open it up all that often, but I do drive "spiritedly" on the weekends when there's less traffic. I could count on one hand how many times I've taken it to redline. I WAS checking my oil often after my first change but will admit it's been a good 4-5 weeks since the last time I looked. I know, I know, shame on me. Life just got in the way.

I guess considering how much oil was missing, I might cut my oil change intervals in half. I was going by the recommended 7500 mile interval, but it was 5k since my last change and it looks like it was overdue. Also going to add the Fumoto Drain Valve to my wishlist for the next change since I'll be doing them more often. I did like the Greddy Mag Plug while I used it, but seeing that there was no gunk on it this time, quicker swaps seem like the better deal.

I also experimented with the dip stick a bit more since I knew it was full. I can get a proper reading now, but it's not consistent. I still get oil only showing on the edge sometimes, following the exact same steps. I'm going to look into reviews before buying FT86SF's dip stick. I usually shop from them the most, but that dip stick just seems way overpriced.

Thanks for all the help everyone! I didn't want to seem like a total noob since this isn't my first oil change, but this flippin dip stick had me stumped.