Spec Twin?

[Imp]

Yeah, that shows up on google maps as closed. I should be going through the area around 6-7pm if all goes well, which is just after peak. The way I look at it when I drive far distances is "it is what it is".


I'll be watching traffic on Waze as I approach and have a few options, best being take 36E to the new St Croix crossing (staying north of the City) and head south on 39 by the docks for a few miles until picking up 94 again. If the city is jammed, then probably head south around on 494. At least there are lots of options in addition to those 2.


Using googlemaps is ineffective now, though, because people are trying to remember how to drive in the snow again after the summer.


--kC

[iLuveKetchup]

Legal to weld the eccentric bolts/washers on the rear LCA? Asking for a friend..

[Imp]

Probably not. Why? Do they keep adjusting on their own? I don't think some loctite Blue would be out of the realm though.

[iLuveKetchup]

Originally Posted by Imp

Probably not. Why? Do they keep adjusting on their own? I don't think some loctite Blue would be out of the realm though.

Rear camber has moves like Jagger.

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by iLuveKetchup

Legal to weld the eccentric bolts/washers on the rear LCA? Asking for a friend..

I would guess not. I have had the SPC arms for 2-3 years. No issues with them moving. Car sees probably 15 autox events a year and 10 track days a year and I use the curbs.

[Imp]

Two other suggestions:


1) Torque them more.
2) Paint a line on bolt and surface once you know it's aligned right. Then at events - check it. If it's moved, you know where it needs to go back to. I used to do this on my RX8. I had 2 lines. One for autox, and one for daily driving.


--kC

[iLuveKetchup]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

I would guess not. I have had the SPC arms for 2-3 years. No issues with them moving. Car sees probably 15 autox events a year and 10 track days a year and I use the curbs.

So the rear camber never deviated from your alignment setting? Stays perfect i.e. -1.5 after 2-3 years? How many times are you checking?

Originally Posted by Imp

Two other suggestions:


1) Torque them more.
2) Paint a line on bolt and surface once you know it's aligned right. Then at events - check it. If it's moved, you know where it needs to go back to. I used to do this on my RX8. I had 2 lines. One for autox, and one for daily driving.


--kC

1) It still moves.
2) yes I do this but it's more of guess work.

I'm going to take the initiative and weld.

[Imp]

Adding paint or a mark should remove any guesswork (and if you're within a 1/16 left or right from the mark, the effect will be unnoticeable/negligible when driving - whereas toe that much would be). How much does it move???


--kC

[Twinz]

There is A LOT of cross-talk between the camber and toe on the back of this thing. I marked mine, but I'm pretty sure the car won't drive straight if the camber moves. (Because I expect it to jack up the toe if/when it moves)

[Imp]

Originally Posted by iLuveKetchup

I'm going to take the initiative and weld.

Like I said, I would avoid doing that unless you've exhausted all other resources, because it's not legal for competition in Solo.


That said, I just want to be sure, as I haven't yet installed or even looked at the underneath of these cars to get familiar with setup...


The eccentrics, are they part of the SPC arms? I mentioned this issue you brought up on another forum, and someone said (about the arms) "if they're the bolts factory says 150, their alignment guy did 180 and they haven't moved."


I wouldn't weld unless you've exhausted all other resources. You don't wanna do it only to find out your out of compliance (and then have to buy new parts).


--kC

[Imp]

Originally Posted by Twinz

There is A LOT of cross-talk between the camber and toe on the back of this thing. I marked mine, but I'm pretty sure the car won't drive straight if the camber moves. (Because I expect it to jack up the toe if/when it moves)

So on the rear, adjusting camber effects toe? Not separate? (Looking at parts install now... I guess so... hmmm)


--kC

[Twinz]

Originally Posted by Imp

So on the rear, adjusting camber effects toe? Not separate? (Looking at parts install now... I guess so... hmmm)


--kC

Front isn't bad in that regard. I picked up more than a degree of camber and my front toe was almost unchanged. The back is a PITA though.

[Imp]

Did you try without the "new" toe arm bushing in the rear? Or did you put both on at the same time?

This adjustable control arm kit is designed to replace the rear lower control arm. A new offset toe arm bushing is included with this kit. Toe bushing installation is not required if desired rear camber and toe can be achieved with the stock toe adjuster. A complete bolt-in rear toe adjusting arm, #67655 is available for easier toe adjustment if desired.

That reads to me that you don't have to run it if you can still get the range you want in the rear with the stock stuff.


--kC

[iLuveKetchup]

Originally Posted by Imp

Did you try without the "new" toe arm bushing in the rear? Or did you put both on at the same time?



That reads to me that you don't have to run it if you can still get the range you want in the rear with the stock stuff.


--kC

That bushing is not used. It is for the OEM LCA which you are removing in place of the SPC LCA.