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| Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
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Well my first proper STX build...
When I first got this car I bought the bling bling (staggered) wheels and the lowering springs and ran it in STX.. My first experience in autox and track.. I enjoyed it so much i went and bought an nb miata to beat on for a year... I then went to square setup with the lowering springs and wasn't competitive.. So I dropped down to stock, tossed on some re71's and a whiteline 22mm adj front bar. That was great I was competitive local, but ... I am now gathering the bits for next year, stage 1 of STX build. I have the same 22mm adj whiteline bar, but to go with it I have whiteline rr lca's, KW clubsport 2 ways and went to rpf1 17x9's.. Now just not sure what I should be doing about rear sway.. I did find the 22 abit too stiff in stock class, but I can't afford to buy 2 bars, so looking to just buy a rear bar for STX. I realize there are a ton of factors and what works for someone else may do the opposite for me, but looking to try and cut a corner here and save myself a few $$ and at least buy something 'in the ballpark' to start.. Anyone else running a similar setup? what rear bar should I be considering? Stage 2 (for 2019) will consist of exhaust and tune..
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WRB MT BRZ Sport Tech Delivered March 21 2013 Its mine now!!
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#2 |
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Typical is a smaller front bar, and some have been running a touch softer rear bar on square springs. Run it, see how it does and what you'd like to change before bothering to put money on a bar. Oh, and... what spring rates? Because that plays a role too.
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#3 |
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btr.life
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The stock (14mm) rear bar will work fine, assuming you are on a pre MY17 car.
If you do want to change it, the Mann engineering 13mm adjustable bar is a great option. There are so many workable combos though, just have to figure out what will work best for you.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
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Put together the car first, test it, then determine what swaybar YOU want.
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#5 |
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Drive the car with the parts you have now and see how your car handles. Get the car dialed in as much as possible, then you can figure out what you need to do (different springs, swaybars, alignment, etc.).
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Drives: 2022 LR Defender, 2015 FRS_ST5/TT5
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Quote:
1) Ran TRD f/r bar on TRD springs on stock shocks. Added -2.3 front camber. Understeer still prevalent. 2) Installed 550/550lbs springs on MCS doubles. Left the bars as is (TRD). Granted I added APR front and rear aero kit. Rear was pinned and I had corner entry to corner exit oversteer (modulated with throttle but not where near neutral). 3) Added 650lbs rear spring. Now it was a fair bit oversteery. Disconnected the rear TRD bar. Back to understeer. Added OEM bar. Much better balance. If I may state something, keep OEM bar and work around spring rates. Just my humble 2 pennies of an opinion. Lutfy
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| The Following User Says Thank You to lutfy For This Useful Post: | G_Ride (11-07-2017) |
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