Spec Twin?

[blkwrxwag]

That's correct. In STX, you want the adjustable arms to dial the camber back a little to around - 2.0. I reckon the Eibach springs are going to put you around that number anyway, so no need for adjustable arms. Of course, we won't know for sure until someone tries.

[tony_r]

Originally Posted by blkwrxwag

That's correct. In STX, you want the adjustable arms to dial the camber back a little to around - 2.0. I reckon the Eibach springs are going to put you around that number anyway, so no need for adjustable arms. Of course, we won't know for sure until someone tries.

Exactly. I'm thinking less than that since, again, soft suspension is going to have you traveling all through the range anyway. IIRC the camber curve on the rear is pretty generous.

[strat61caster]

Most cars are uneven from the factory, my car with stock LCA was off by half a degree left to right on the rear the last time it was on the alignment rack, springs can make it better or worse, it's a crapshoot.

Get the LCA, you can skip the toe arm, factory range is plenty on that, just a pain to diy adjust.

I suppose you'll be able to get initial alignment first to judge if you have an even car or not, but I'd suspect it's worth it for most 86s.

[ApexEight]

Isn't factory rear toe adjustment just turn eccentric and tighten nut once desired toe is reached?

[renfield90]

Originally Posted by blkwrxwag

That's correct. In STX, you want the adjustable arms to dial the camber back a little to around - 2.0. I reckon the Eibach springs are going to put you around that number anyway, so no need for adjustable arms. Of course, we won't know for sure until someone tries.

In CS/TRD trim, my car had perfect rear camber. I have LCAs for STX but still haven't adjusted them any different from OEM length...

[blkwrxwag]

That's good to hear, Manfred.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by ApexEight

Isn't factory rear toe adjustment just turn eccentric and tighten nut once desired toe is reached?

Yup, no big deal if you have an alignment rack or a decent setup for doing the work. I personally don't and the math of throwing several hundred dollars per year at a shop to tweak didn't add up to me. I'm not the norm, I totally understand that, but I know I'm not the only person who has struggled with factory toe adjustment.

So imagine you're in your garage with the car jacked up so you can adjust it. Now imagine there's slop in the bolt so just lining up the marks isn't enough, you have to line up the mark in a consistent fashion (kind of like tuning a guitar from low to high tension) say from clockwise to counterclockwise. Then tighten the bolt, make sure it doesn't slip while tightening, ok now check it. Get out from under the car, if you have wheel mounted alignment tools you can wing it in the air with some confidence, do final torque of 76 ft-lbs (I blew almost an entire season not torquing properly, dynamic toe isn't fun) check it again, now do the other side. Drop the car, drive it around the block, bring it back in and confirm you're good.

Repeat if wrong, add in multiple steps if you're using toe plates and need the car to be on the ground,I haven't figured out reliable ghetto slip plates imo. Then there's the complication of toe link and lca interacting with each other to adjust camber and toe, with spc lca and stock toe link you have two eccentrics to manipulate, torque, check, repeat until you are satisfied. I don't mind being wrong on setup guesses, but not being able to have consistent setup has driven me crazy, having it measure out different every time is my personal hell. Upgrading tools may help with that but it's all procedure and patience to do this on a budget.

That's been the last year and a half of my autox experience. If you're not a perfectionist maybe it's not a big deal, but the number of times I've tightened it down and had it slip and had to crawl back under and do it all again. I'm done, got the SPC links sitting on the shelf right now, they'll go on in a week or two.

There's added bonus with two threaded adjusters (sorry ssc) you can figure out how much to turn both links to get the camber and toe you want, have it all figured out in the garage and go to an event or test and tune and be able to quickly test a wide range of camber and toe settings with confidence. At least that's part of my plan for next year, I bet some will be doing that with their ssc cars as well to hit the ground running and dial in their alignment early on which should pay dividends as you have spec spring rates and tires your steady state cornering can be nailed by the first big events.

Again, this is cake with a decent alignment rack, plenty of access, high quality slip plates and real time feedback on adjustment takes what used to be an afternoon job and reduces it down to fifteen minutes or less once the car is up on the rack.

[Ribface]

Really looking forward to the new class. I am starting to look for an FRS for next season.
Wish there had been a spec class when I started autocrossing years ago.

On top the spec package, beside a lighter exhaust (after cat) and air filter, are there any other street rules modifications worth having?

[cjd]

Originally Posted by ApexEight

Isn't factory rear toe adjustment just turn eccentric and tighten nut once desired toe is reached?

To add to the excellent summary... Fucking miserable to do solo diy. I also need better slip plates, going to try a different grease... If that's not magic, fancy ones go on next year's budget with a bit of cringe. Hoping to stumble on a deal like I found for my scales...

I use the string method and have a setup that attaches to the car so they move with it if I don't bump them... But still a pain. And I bumped them nearly every time I went to adjust something.

[ApexEight]

Originally Posted by cjd

To add to the excellent summary... Fucking miserable to do solo diy. I also need better slip plates, going to try a different grease... If that's not magic, fancy ones go on next year's budget with a bit of cringe. Hoping to stumble on a deal like I found for my scales...

I use the string method and have a setup that attaches to the car so they move with it if I don't bump them... But still a pain. And I bumped them nearly every time I went to adjust something.

Got any links to a cheap and user friendly string set up? I've never attempted anything like this

[Cueman]

Originally Posted by Ribface

On top the spec package, beside a lighter exhaust (after cat) and air filter, are there any other street rules modifications worth having?

Have they actually acknowledged yet that things like a catback or brake pads will be legal?

[blkwrxwag]

Originally Posted by Cueman

Have they actually acknowledged yet that things like a catback or brake pads will be legal?

They said it built on Street rules, so yes.

"For components not specifically listed in the Stage 1 or Stage 2 Packages, the Solo Street Category allowances will apply. Vehicles will be allowed to compete "under prepared" without all permitted modifications being installed."

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by blkwrxwag

They said it built on Street rules, so yes.

"For components not specifically listed in the Stage 1 or Stage 2 Packages, the Solo Street Category allowances will apply. Vehicles will be allowed to compete "under prepared" without all permitted modifications being installed."

Just so you guys don't complain later, I'd wait until actual rules are published and not rely solely on a press article.

I've heard cat-back exhausts will not be open

[blkwrxwag]

Originally Posted by M0nk3y

Just so you guys don't complain later, I'd wait until actual rules are published and not rely solely on a press article.

I've heard cat-back exhausts will not be open

Agreed on the waiting. I hope you're wrong on the cat back stuff. Still, no point in discussing until the rules are actually published.