Dustin's UltraMarine FR-S (Engine Blew - LS3 Time)

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by MJones_RB

Are those front turn signal LEDs those switchback ones from Diode Dynamics?

Yes They are. Keep falling apart and they are too heavy for the socket. They are duct taped into the socket and still don't always stay in place.

[MJones_RB]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Yes They are. Keep falling apart and they are too heavy for the socket. They are duct taped into the socket and still don't always stay in place.

I had the same problem. There was a small tab in the center of the bulb that I had to shave off in order to get it to actually SNAP into place. Once it did, it was in for good.

(not this bulb but this tab)

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by MJones_RB

I had the same problem. There was a small tab in the center of the bulb that I had to shave off in order to get it to actually SNAP into place. Once it did, it was in for good.

I will definitely try this. Thanks!

[DustinS]

Testing out an air box around the filter. Final product will be built with either ABS Sheet, or aluminum. Leaning towards ABS to help with any heat soak issues. Also very easy to work with. With the box/scoop in place Air temps are generally the same as outside temps or a few degrees less. I will be testing the temps without the airbox and with the scoop today on the way to the bank. Testing without both on my way back to work. Will be interesting to see.





With the Airbox and Scoop. Intake temps were within a degree of outside temps. Idling temps were about 20-30 degree over ambient.

With airbox removed scoop still in place, intake temps were about 20 degree higher than ambient. Idling temps were outrageous at 150-170 depending on how long the car sits.

Scoop removed temps jumped to about 30 over ambient while moving.

Air Box is a definite must in this case.

[DustinS]

Currently trying to figure out wheel/tire package for some street radials so I can hook while having fun in Mexico and the occasional fun at the drag strip. Kind of hoping jumping to a 315 street tire may fix the traction issue as well.

Maybe a Weld S71 17x11 with a 315/35/17

[DustinS]

Gauges Came in. Not sure I like them as much as I was expecting. They will work though.



SpeedHut Sensor wiring was a lot heavier duty than the Tanabe.





So the bad news. Second oil change. I have been checking the oil level every once and awhile at the gas station with nothing looking wrong. Though When I drain the oil. I only get 3-4 quarts out on a 6 quart oil change. Not sure what the heck is going on there, but I will just keep a look out on the level more regularly. Wonder if a cam bearing is eating oil or something.



So new oil Pressure Gauge in. Oil Pressure all fixed!!... Not. Old Pressure gauge read the same. Oil is about 45psi cold. Once over 190 it idles around 20psi. Somewhat cold oil pressure gets to about 52 psi as RPMs rise and drops to low 40s. Once the RPMs drop it jumps back up into the 50s and then continues to come down. I'll throw a go pro on see if I can get a good video of it. Got the oil above 200 and went to do a pull to see what the pressure gauge read. went to about 6000 RPM. Oil never went above 45psi.... Definitely think I have an issue.

Called Texas-Speed. They told me it was fine and to run a 10w-40 oil.

few days later:

That Oil Pressure though...


Definitely think something is wrong. Or I was spinning extremely bad (though no one said they really saw me spin or anything)

Playing with a friend making ~460whp in a 350z. He was almost pulling me...

[ImAdopted]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Gauges Came in. Not sure I like them as much as I was expecting. They will work though.



SpeedHut Sensor wiring was a lot heavier duty than the Tanabe.





So the bad news. Second oil change. I have been checking the oil level every once and awhile at the gas station with nothing looking wrong. Though When I drain the oil. I only get 3-4 quarts out on a 6 quart oil change. Not sure what the heck is going on there, but I will just keep a look out on the level more regularly. Wonder if a cam bearing is eating oil or something.



So new oil Pressure Gauge in. Oil Pressure all fixed!!... Not. Old Pressure gauge read the same. Oil is about 45psi cold. Once over 190 it idles around 20psi. Somewhat cold oil pressure gets to about 52 psi as RPMs rise and drops to low 40s. Once the RPMs drop it jumps back up into the 50s and then continues to come down. I'll throw a go pro on see if I can get a good video of it. Got the oil above 200 and went to do a pull to see what the pressure gauge read. went to about 6000 RPM. Oil never went above 45psi.... Definitely think I have an issue.

Called Texas-Speed. They told me it was fine and to run a 10w-40 oil.

few days later:

That Oil Pressure though...


Definitely think something is wrong. Or I was spinning extremely bad (though no one said they really saw me spin or anything)

Playing with a friend making ~460whp in a 350z. He was almost pulling me...

i just stumbled across your build now but would you be able to direct me to the page where you talked about your interior dash lights?! that blue is amazing and i really wanna change mine up lol. if not i'll just have to go through all 42pages lol (i will regardless )

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by ImAdopted

i just stumbled across your build now but would you be able to direct me to the page where you talked about your interior dash lights?! that blue is amazing and i really wanna change mine up lol. if not i'll just have to go through all 42pages lol (i will regardless )

Gauge Cluster LED Swap

There you go!

I apologize for all the dead pictures. I still need to go through, save the pictures and re-upload them to flickr.

[ImAdopted]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Gauge Cluster LED Swap

There you go!

I apologize for all the dead pictures. I still need to go through, save the pictures and re-upload them to flickr.

perfect thanks man, gotta look into this build more

[DustinS]

Front Sway Bar issues.

[ame="http://youtu.be/2QVkV5rQNAU"]http://youtu.be/2QVkV5rQNAU[/ame]

[DustinS]

Early Apology if things don't make sense. I was just kind of rambling. TLDR - Fixed some things - Car responded by running worst. Until it ran sort of fine.

My friend/old Boss let me toss my car up on the lift Saturday to give the car a once over and try to figure out the vibration I was having. I wouldn't have found it had he not done that. Turned out to be passenger rear wheel bearing had the smallest amount of play, only noticeable if you were really paying attention. Got it replaced with a local autopart store replacement. See how long that one last haha. I want to swap out the studs, not sure how
strong they are.

I also melted ANOTHER plug wire.... Noticed the hesitation and hick-ups under WOT. Didn't notice the sparking till the next night. Did my best to try and prevent it. Used up the last of my metal heat shielding. Trying to get the plug wire plugged in is a total nightmare.

Changed the Diff Fluid and checked the trans fluid while the car was in the air. Transmission still has a tiny fluid leak, but not enough to cause issues. The fluid was still right at the fill plug. Transmission makes all sorts of gear rattle noise and shifts are super notchy and don't feel good. That is what prompted me to check the fluid level, but seems fine. Going to switch from Mobil 1 ATF to Amsoil that has been recommended and hope it gets better. It could very well be the pretty much solid bushings that come with the Vorshlag mounts. I am thinking about making custom mounts to use a factory mount to make it a little nicer.

Diff Drain Plug - Not Bad


New Hub


Old Boss was looking over the car with me and noticed the driveshaft had a lot of "drag". Thinks that might be an issue. Also found one of the e-brake bolts has been rubbing the driveshaft. Guess I didn't use enough washers.

Had a car strapped on the dyno for tuning come monday so I couldn't dyno my car, but we are going to set some time aside for that. Really interested in getting it on the dyno more for data than Number. I want to make sure fuel pressure is staying good. Need to check what temps the headers are getting to. Cause I have a feeling they get too hot/hotter than expected. Haven't got my replacement wideband 02 sensor in yet, and currently don't know the AFRs. Car smells SUPER rich though, and the exhaust pipes are black and even when cleaned/polished don't stay that way longer than a day.

Got all that done and took a trip ~45 minutes away to meet my family and hang out. On the way home had a honda trying to play with me, I got fed up, down shifted to 5th and eased into it. Car felt a little underpowered, but I was also in 5th gear. Pulled away hard at 3/4 throttle until ~4200-4500 rpm where the car fell on it's face. I clutched in and the car acted as if nothing happened. Car would run great until heavy throttle to about 4000 rpm or so. That was Saturday, Did more testing yesterday with same results, except eventually it cleared up. I had an issue in second gear at 2500 rpm and again in third gear. Car was fine until the throttle was 100% and then it would cut out. After a couple times, I didn't have an issue. Tried to not push my luck as I didn't REALLY want to break anything. I'll fill up at a known good gas station to try and rule out poor gas. I did get the car past the 1/4 tank mark though. I haven't been brave enough to go till the light comes on without a 5 gallon tank in the trunk. Need to get the testing done before the honeymoon.

The Car has also developed a squeak. Sounds exactly like a little animal living under the car, something to do with the exhaust. Get that checked out when it's in the air again.

Because I have had so much issue with the throttle body plug, falling apart and water leaking past the seals. Getting a new one ordered and hoping that helps with the throttle issues. I believe the stalling at 4500 rpm was related to water in the throttle body plug.

Griffin Radiator

Looking at this radiator. Wanting something with the inlet/outlet in the correct place for the LS. Not much larger than the Full Blow one, just Thicker at 3" thick haha.

[DustinS]

Preliminary Radiator ducting and fresh air for Filter. Hopefully it helps with the intake temps.

[DustinS]

Well I went to fill up yesterday and noticed the pump shut off after only 4 gallons. I was super confused and turned it back on, Heard the fill tube fill up and then pump shut off. I proceeded to pump fuel slowly and it work for a bit and eventually came back up and shut the pump off. I went ahead and just quit. Only 3/4 tank. So I believe my filler neck has finally collapsed. Going to try again today and see what happens. Trying to decide between taking it to the dealer (should still be covered under warranty lol), or just buying it and doing it myself.

[sirsol66]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Well I went to fill up yesterday and noticed the pump shut off after only 4 gallons. I was super confused and turned it back on, Heard the fill tube fill up and then pump shut off. I proceeded to pump fuel slowly and it work for a bit and eventually came back up and shut the pump off. I went ahead and just quit. Only 3/4 tank. So I believe my filler neck has finally collapsed. Going to try again today and see what happens. Trying to decide between taking it to the dealer (should still be covered under warranty lol), or just buying it and doing it myself.

If you do it yourself, please post how difficult it was. I have the same issue and could get it warrantied, but I hate the local dealers. I've been curious how bad it would be; it doesnt look too complicated to drop the tank on these cars.