BRZ Price Paid

[BaatLuk]

Originally Posted by ~el~jefe~

It is not possible to find the lowest deal in general. You will get claims that are ridiculous on here and do NOT AT ALL reflect the full deal they did or screwed up. The cost of living in an area and the distributor selling the car to the dealer on order greatly change the "good deal" "bad deal" of the deal.

ordering it form factory?
Live in an ACTUALLY expensive area?
Financing it gives a lot of profit to the place, even "outside financing" gives them instant 500-800 dollars in bonus.
Any warranty add ons or protections?
What point during the year did the forum person buy it? There is no stagnant charge for these cars, always hidden incentives between dealer and distributor and distributor and Subaru.

I agree with Tcoat that much of the severely low prices on here are questionable claims at best. I dont care about upsetting forum posters, so I will say that, I do care about people looking for price and finding questionable and not-full-story quotes on things that you will not see when you negotiate.

Purpose of this thread is to keep potential buyers informed. At the end of the day, it's your money and you decide how much you wanna give to the dealer.

[fierostetz]

There are always things you can do to help yourself.

- Don't go in "needing to buy". Desperation means you're definitely going to get boned.
- Keep feelings out of it. You are here to purchase a vehicle, not adopt a baby. If you exhibit emotional attachment to the vehicle, you are going to pay more.
- No matter how much you like it, act like you wish it had X, but you'll just have to settle. Make sure the thing you're wishing for isn't sitting on their lot :P - like, an impossible color combo, etc.
- Learn to walk away. Don't threaten it, don't get angry, just thank them for their time, wish them a great day, and hit the road. Multiple times I've had a salesman come running across the grass down to the parking area to flag me down and bring me back in. Every.single.time it has been the catalyst to unstick some stalled negotiations.
- Don't discuss payments with the dealership, just the total cost. The payments discussion is where people usually get boned. Each time they throw out a number/numbers, write them down. Make sure they see you write it down. When the numbers change, point at the ones you have written down and ask why they changed.
- I always bring up my trade-in after all the other money stuff is settled and on paper. It keeps them off kilter - like in a fist fight, once you have someone backing up it leaves you open to advancing.
- Bring a pad of paper. Write down the things they say. Refer to the things they said previously when they say something else. People don't like it when you write down what they say, and they don't like having their own words used against them. This may seem adversarial, but tripping you up and getting you to pay more is their function. I don't care who you are, you aren't going to properly keep it all in your head (that goes for waiters, too!!!), and it's the visual impact of you taking notes and the process of referring to your notes and pointing at previously mentioned numbers that makes the difference here.
- Always try to have your own financing lined up, and don't be afraid to call your finance company if the dealership counter offers lower. Remember that the dealerships often add a % or two. That means you get approved at, say, 1%. They tell you 3%, and they pocket the extra 2% they tacked on.
- After all the money stuff is settled, price isn't going any lower, trade in discussion isn't going any higher, discuss any extras you'd like thrown in if they're stuck firm on price. Have gotten a lot of free stuff, oil changes, detailing, tint, etc. this way.
- If it's a dealership you can regularly "see", I like to wait until they have the new model year on a truck being unloaded, then I go in that day and offer on the previous model year. This works exceptionally well at low-volume dealerships. In my case, I drove past the dealership on the freeway every day, so the day I saw the trucks unloading '17's, I went in and dropped an offer on a '16. You know, to help them out and free up lot space
- There are car brokers, people you can pay to do the car purchasing for you. The BRZ/86 twins are probably too downmarket for this to be effective, but brokers will *always* get a lower price than you. It could even be as simple as they know someone at the dealership and funnel all the purchases for that brand through one guy, so that guy makes up on volume what he discounts on margin. Who knows? Brokers have put in the time networking and figuring out the system. It usually costs you 500-700 dollars for a broker, more for upmarket cars. Some investment vehicles I've purchased have been acquired via a broker; I don't know how they do it, but they usually undercut my own best efforts, and I am ridiculous when it comes to price negotiations.
- Truecar is BS. They no longer work for the consumer, they work for the dealerships. Truecar can function as *a* tool for negotiations, but it is not *the* tool for negotiations. USAA car buying service used to be incredible, but now that they use Truecar you wind up paying more than you would if you self negotiated.

The last new car I bought stickered for ~26k. They offered me 3k for my trade in. I wound up paying 17k and got 5500 for my trade in, plus tint, 12 oil changes (the oil is 13-14 bucks a quart). I had to leave twice and it took 7 hours, but I got what I wanted.

[~el~jefe~]

Bubbles knows his crap.

[fierostetz]

Originally Posted by ~el~jefe~

Bubbles knows his crap.

[~el~jefe~]

Originally Posted by fierostetz

hhahha! YES!

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by fierostetz

There are always things you can do to help yourself.

- Don't go in "needing to buy". Desperation means you're definitely going to get boned.
- Keep feelings out of it. You are here to purchase a vehicle, not adopt a baby. If you exhibit emotional attachment to the vehicle, you are going to pay more.
- No matter how much you like it, act like you wish it had X, but you'll just have to settle. Make sure the thing you're wishing for isn't sitting on their lot :P - like, an impossible color combo, etc.
- Learn to walk away. Don't threaten it, don't get angry, just thank them for their time, wish them a great day, and hit the road. Multiple times I've had a salesman come running across the grass down to the parking area to flag me down and bring me back in. Every.single.time it has been the catalyst to unstick some stalled negotiations.
- Don't discuss payments with the dealership, just the total cost. The payments discussion is where people usually get boned. Each time they throw out a number/numbers, write them down. Make sure they see you write it down. When the numbers change, point at the ones you have written down and ask why they changed.
- I always bring up my trade-in after all the other money stuff is settled and on paper. It keeps them off kilter - like in a fist fight, once you have someone backing up it leaves you open to advancing.
- Bring a pad of paper. Write down the things they say. Refer to the things they said previously when they say something else. People don't like it when you write down what they say, and they don't like having their own words used against them. This may seem adversarial, but tripping you up and getting you to pay more is their function. I don't care who you are, you aren't going to properly keep it all in your head (that goes for waiters, too!!!), and it's the visual impact of you taking notes and the process of referring to your notes and pointing at previously mentioned numbers that makes the difference here.
- Always try to have your own financing lined up, and don't be afraid to call your finance company if the dealership counter offers lower. Remember that the dealerships often add a % or two. That means you get approved at, say, 1%. They tell you 3%, and they pocket the extra 2% they tacked on.
- After all the money stuff is settled, price isn't going any lower, trade in discussion isn't going any higher, discuss any extras you'd like thrown in if they're stuck firm on price. Have gotten a lot of free stuff, oil changes, detailing, tint, etc. this way.
- If it's a dealership you can regularly "see", I like to wait until they have the new model year on a truck being unloaded, then I go in that day and offer on the previous model year. This works exceptionally well at low-volume dealerships. In my case, I drove past the dealership on the freeway every day, so the day I saw the trucks unloading '17's, I went in and dropped an offer on a '16. You know, to help them out and free up lot space
- There are car brokers, people you can pay to do the car purchasing for you. The BRZ/86 twins are probably too downmarket for this to be effective, but brokers will *always* get a lower price than you. It could even be as simple as they know someone at the dealership and funnel all the purchases for that brand through one guy, so that guy makes up on volume what he discounts on margin. Who knows? Brokers have put in the time networking and figuring out the system. It usually costs you 500-700 dollars for a broker, more for upmarket cars. Some investment vehicles I've purchased have been acquired via a broker; I don't know how they do it, but they usually undercut my own best efforts, and I am ridiculous when it comes to price negotiations.
- Truecar is BS. They no longer work for the consumer, they work for the dealerships. Truecar can function as *a* tool for negotiations, but it is not *the* tool for negotiations. USAA car buying service used to be incredible, but now that they use Truecar you wind up paying more than you would if you self negotiated.

The last new car I bought stickered for ~26k. They offered me 3k for my trade in. I wound up paying 17k and got 5500 for my trade in, plus tint, 12 oil changes (the oil is 13-14 bucks a quart). I had to leave twice and it took 7 hours, but I got what I wanted.

Keeping in in mind:


An experienced salesperson has seen all this shit a thousand times. They are prepared for it and you are not pulling anything over on them no matter how smart you think you are being.


Stay business like but there is no need to be a jerk. Somebody that works with them in a pleasant manner is much more likely to get a deal than a self important, entitled, douche that thinks they are owed something.


The salesperson job is to get as much as they can for the car. There is a line they can not go below no matter how much you want them to. It is how they make a living. Would you work for free just because the customer asks or tries to pressure you into it?


Good deals can be made but if you go in expecting to save $11,500 and walk away with a shit load of extras on a $26K car you are going to be strongly disappointed about 99.8% of the time.

[mnuttall]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Keeping in in mind:

Stay business like but there is no need to be a jerk. Somebody that works with them in a pleasant manner is much more likely to get a deal than a self important, entitled, douche that thinks they are owed something.

Exactly. I've always been very upfront with car salespeople that if they don't try to screw me, I won't try to screw them, and that I recognize that they need to feed their family the same way I do. I've always been able to come to a deal that I felt was fair for both sides without having to resort to the various tactics described by fierostetz (and others).

[fierostetz]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Stay business like but there is no need to be a jerk. Somebody that works with them in a pleasant manner is much more likely to get a deal than a self important, entitled, douche that thinks they are owed something.

Oh absolutely, treat others as you want to be treated. I thought it went without saying, but in the current environment.. maybe it's good to re-state not to be a donger. You can be "cold" without being a jerk.

I'm just trying to advise the layperson on common pitfalls (don't sign based on payments!!!!!).

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by fierostetz

Oh absolutely, treat others as you want to be treated. I thought it went without saying, but in the current environment.. maybe it's good to re-state not to be a donger.

It should but have you read what some people here write?

[~el~jefe~]

I did not go very far from MSRP on my BRZ 2017 with PP. At the last minute, when my credit was only 690 and 701, not terrible, but not Top tier (it is just about second tier), I was able to negotiate 2.0% financing, real 2.0% financing. I would have gotten 3.5% from other places, but they slammed it to the base and found me a local credit union. The savings was about 800 dollars. That would not have happened if i chewed them to the bone on the deal. Long Island showrooms probably cost about 5x more easily than showrooms in other parts of the state or country. It is really hard to go in all tough when the BRZ is not in stock. Stock items you can dig and dig and dig on, not in stock, the salesperson loses other incentives on the sale.

[fierostetz]

Originally Posted by ~el~jefe~

Stock items you can dig and dig and dig on, not in stock, the salesperson loses other incentives on the sale.

Oh absolutely. When you have to order a vehicle you're really just left with "extras" that you can negotiate. Do they have a partnership with a tint shop? Do they have an agreement with a local vinyl shop? A tire store?

[HSUBLU]

I think my only regret with my purchase was not asking them to put on the PP...

[~el~jefe~]

Originally Posted by HSUBLU

I think my only regret with my purchase was not asking them to put on the PP...

I enjoy the PP. It was worth it to me. The car is immensely more beautiful than anything under 60k without the brakes and pp wheels. (aside from 2 seater like Mazda miata RF, but that's an accessory car).

Tcoat noted that i will get a lot of use out of them as I drive down mountains for vacationing fun. Really, my vacations only involve going into the Catskills or Adirondack mountains of NY and flying around from place to place. The PP brakes NEVER fade. Tested them first time fully this past week. Other than that, the sachs struts are cool, but i totally doubt a person would notice a difference if they did not have them. You save a lot not getting the PP and maintenance is certainly cheaper. Struts are more expensive and the pads and rotors certainly so.

[Veloist]

Originally Posted by fierostetz

There are always things you can do to help yourself.

- Don't go in "needing to buy". Desperation means you're definitely going to get boned.
- Keep feelings out of it. You are here to purchase a vehicle, not adopt a baby. If you exhibit emotional attachment to the vehicle, you are going to pay more.
- No matter how much you like it, act like you wish it had X, but you'll just have to settle. Make sure the thing you're wishing for isn't sitting on their lot :P - like, an impossible color combo, etc.
- Learn to walk away. Don't threaten it, don't get angry, just thank them for their time, wish them a great day, and hit the road. Multiple times I've had a salesman come running across the grass down to the parking area to flag me down and bring me back in. Every.single.time it has been the catalyst to unstick some stalled negotiations.
- Don't discuss payments with the dealership, just the total cost. The payments discussion is where people usually get boned. Each time they throw out a number/numbers, write them down. Make sure they see you write it down. When the numbers change, point at the ones you have written down and ask why they changed.
- I always bring up my trade-in after all the other money stuff is settled and on paper. It keeps them off kilter - like in a fist fight, once you have someone backing up it leaves you open to advancing.
- Bring a pad of paper. Write down the things they say. Refer to the things they said previously when they say something else. People don't like it when you write down what they say, and they don't like having their own words used against them. This may seem adversarial, but tripping you up and getting you to pay more is their function. I don't care who you are, you aren't going to properly keep it all in your head (that goes for waiters, too!!!), and it's the visual impact of you taking notes and the process of referring to your notes and pointing at previously mentioned numbers that makes the difference here.
- Always try to have your own financing lined up, and don't be afraid to call your finance company if the dealership counter offers lower. Remember that the dealerships often add a % or two. That means you get approved at, say, 1%. They tell you 3%, and they pocket the extra 2% they tacked on.
- After all the money stuff is settled, price isn't going any lower, trade in discussion isn't going any higher, discuss any extras you'd like thrown in if they're stuck firm on price. Have gotten a lot of free stuff, oil changes, detailing, tint, etc. this way.
- If it's a dealership you can regularly "see", I like to wait until they have the new model year on a truck being unloaded, then I go in that day and offer on the previous model year. This works exceptionally well at low-volume dealerships. In my case, I drove past the dealership on the freeway every day, so the day I saw the trucks unloading '17's, I went in and dropped an offer on a '16. You know, to help them out and free up lot space
- There are car brokers, people you can pay to do the car purchasing for you. The BRZ/86 twins are probably too downmarket for this to be effective, but brokers will *always* get a lower price than you. It could even be as simple as they know someone at the dealership and funnel all the purchases for that brand through one guy, so that guy makes up on volume what he discounts on margin. Who knows? Brokers have put in the time networking and figuring out the system. It usually costs you 500-700 dollars for a broker, more for upmarket cars. Some investment vehicles I've purchased have been acquired via a broker; I don't know how they do it, but they usually undercut my own best efforts, and I am ridiculous when it comes to price negotiations.
- Truecar is BS. They no longer work for the consumer, they work for the dealerships. Truecar can function as *a* tool for negotiations, but it is not *the* tool for negotiations. USAA car buying service used to be incredible, but now that they use Truecar you wind up paying more than you would if you self negotiated.

The last new car I bought stickered for ~26k. They offered me 3k for my trade in. I wound up paying 17k and got 5500 for my trade in, plus tint, 12 oil changes (the oil is 13-14 bucks a quart). I had to leave twice and it took 7 hours, but I got what I wanted.

Advice here is true but a majority of people don't want to go through the effort of this. It's too much effort for most people who have busy lives to live. I know this for a fact because as a salesperson I tell this advice to my friends and family and when I ask them about it I find out they paid MSRP or got ripped on the interest rate or the extra warranty and maintenance.

Also, I've been in car sales for about 2 and half years at the same dealership since I started at. I've probably only sold a car to somebody like this 2 or 3 times, and that was when I was brand new. As I got more experienced I filtered out people like this and never followed up with them after they left the dealership, since they aren't really worth the time to.

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Keeping in in mind:


An experienced salesperson has seen all this shit a thousand times. They are prepared for it and you are not pulling anything over on them no matter how smart you think you are being.


Stay business like but there is no need to be a jerk. Somebody that works with them in a pleasant manner is much more likely to get a deal than a self important, entitled, douche that thinks they are owed something.


The salesperson job is to get as much as they can for the car. There is a line they can not go below no matter how much you want them to. It is how they make a living. Would you work for free just because the customer asks or tries to pressure you into it?


Good deals can be made but if you go in expecting to save $11,500 and walk away with a shit load of extras on a $26K car you are going to be strongly disappointed about 99.8% of the time.

Everything is true here too.

As salespeople we get the customer satisfaction surveys. My best surveys come from customers who either paid MSRP or at a "half-way" point.

My worst survey was from a customer who got $2600 below dealer invoice because he didn't think the maintenance we sold him for $100 over dealer cost was a good deal. It took me 2 months to recover from that before I got paid again for bonuses.