CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Christianb]

Originally Posted by cjd

Spring rates? Stock swaybars?

Alignment looks generally good for good grip while turning, etc - it's where I'd recommend people start for a performance oriented setup. What do you want the car to do differently?

6k front and 7k rear. TRD Sway Bars front and rear. Ive noticed that on tighter corners it understeers pretty hard, I just wanted to correct that. I know that it can probably be lessened by my driving, but suspension would help.

Side question, the person doing my alignment was having trouble dialing the rear camber with the SPC LCAs due to lack of toe bearing installed. Also, he is having trouble lowering it anywhere near 1 inch in the rear. Anyone else run into this with FA500's?

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Christianb

6k front and 7k rear. TRD Sway Bars front and rear. Ive noticed that on tighter corners it understeers pretty hard, I just wanted to correct that. I know that it can probably be lessened by my driving, but suspension would help.

Side question, the person doing my alignment was having trouble dialing the rear camber with the SPC LCAs due to lack of toe bearing installed. Also, he is having trouble lowering it anywhere near 1 inch in the rear. Anyone else run into this with FA500's?

My experience: the slower you need to be, the more likely its driver alone. Tires and pressures are missing. Autocross, which favors slow/tight maneuvers, seems to favor setups that would be pushier on a road course... Transition speed is the reason, but... So much can be driver transferring weight early away from the front or just running too fast. Or driving a bad line. On the street, the line isn't a!ways as flexible.

[Christianb]

One more question. Lost one of my two SPC toe bushings, should I contact SPC to buy a bushing or wait and buy a whole toe arm from them/ another company? Input is appreciated.

Thank you.

[Christianb]

Originally Posted by cjd

My experience: the slower you need to be, the more likely its driver alone. Tires and pressures are missing. Autocross, which favors slow/tight maneuvers, seems to favor setups that would be pushier on a road course... Transition speed is the reason, but... So much can be driver transferring weight early away from the front or just running too fast. Or driving a bad line. On the street, the line isn't a!ways as flexible.

True, it did get better when I bumped stock tires to around 40 psi rear 45 front. Gonna install these eagles and see if it gets better haha

[churchx]

Originally Posted by Christianb

One more question. Lost one of my two SPC toe bushings, should I contact SPC to buy a bushing or wait and buy a whole toe arm from them/ another company? Input is appreciated.
Thank you.

Rear eccentric toe bushing, that comes with set of SPC rear LCAs? Part number 60009427 if separately, as per their customer service response mail. But IIRC those are more needed for more camber cases, like > -2dg, if you need less camber rear, then imho better using stock, non-eccentric, bushings, or it might be hard to get little enough toe-in at lower camber angles. Or one can get also aftermarket toe arms (SPC's IIRC was 67655) with more range from get go.

[Christianb]

Originally Posted by churchx

Rear eccentric toe bushing, that comes with set of SPC rear LCAs? Part number 60009427 if separately, as per their customer service response mail. But IIRC those are more needed for more camber cases, like > -2dg, if you need less camber rear, then imho better using stock, non-eccentric, bushings, or it might be hard to get little enough toe-in at lower camber angles. Or one can get also aftermarket toe arms (SPC's IIRC was 67655) with more range from get go.

That's weird. The person doing my alignment stated that when maxing the camber bolt at -2 degrees, the toe was at an unacceptable degree. He said that he had to align camber close to 0 to get my toe acceptable, and it wasnt even perfectly zero'd then. This is weird, because I'm not even one inch lowered in the rear, even though I wish to be at 1 inch lowered. Will troubleshoot with SPC and Fortune Auto via email tomorrow to try to resolve the issue. Any input is valued. Maybe install error? Anyone else have the same issue?

Thank you.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Christianb

That's weird. The person doing my alignment stated that when maxing the camber bolt at -2 degrees, the toe was at an unacceptable degree. He said that he had to align camber close to 0 to get my toe acceptable, and it wasnt even perfectly zero'd then. This is weird, because I'm not even one inch lowered in the rear, even though I wish to be at 1 inch lowered. Will troubleshoot with SPC and Fortune Auto via email tomorrow to try to resolve the issue. Any input is valued. Maybe install error? Anyone else have the same issue?

Thank you.

It sounds like your tech doesn't know how to adjust rear camber/toe on an 86, I've swung from -1.0 to -2.8 degrees on rear camber with the factory toe link and not had any troubles zeroing the toe.

[Christianb]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

It sounds like your tech doesn't know how to adjust rear camber/toe on an 86, I've swung from -1.0 to -2.8 degrees on rear camber with the factory toe link and not had any troubles zeroing the toe.

Haha Ill try aligning with a different company.

Thank you

[churchx]

Pitty, that i left install of spc lca-s upto dealership, hence don't have anymore stock toe bushings (BTW, anyone has toyota's part number for those?). But then again as i aim to get -3dg camber front, -2.1 minimum with toe-in i want is somewhat acceptable. Not so if i ever decide to return to more "street" alignment.

[mjanmohammad]

What do you guys recommend for alignment specs for a BRZ that will see autox monthly and HPDE every couple months? Current suspension mods are Vorshlag camber plates with RCE Yellows and rear LCA to be installed this weekend.

[110len]

I have a few suspension setup questions for RCE/CSG.

I have a 2016 BRZ that I have been tracking a bit and doing AX with. It has the following upgrades:

RCE Tarmac2 coilovers with 400/400 springs. Settings are as follows:

front comp. 4 clicks open rear comp. 5 clicks open
rebound 6 clicks open rebound 9 clicks open

ride height front is 13.25 and rear 13.75 after springs settled (measured hub to fender).

alignment specs: LF -2.5 RF -2.5
front toe 3/16" out
LR -2.2 RR -2.1
rear toe 1/32"in

Tires are MPSS 245/35/18 all around

Power upgrades include JRSC, full exhaust and tune. Also AP Racing brakes up front. Bushings are next.

The car handles well but does have some understeer on entry and into mid corner which may be all me. Oversteer isn't a problem as long as my inputs are done properly.
I am looking to tune out the understeer and will change the alignment in front looking to get it around -3 to -3.3.

What other adjustments would you suggest with existing setup?
Also looking to go to a stickier tire such as a ZII or RE71 and get SPL RCAs and adjustable end links to corner balance the car.

If I were to get adjustable sway bars to help tune out the understeer as well as reduce body roll, how should I set them up? For example, the Perrin 22m is 130% and 218% stiffer than stock and their rear 19mm is 150%/243%/347% stiffer. I was thinking setting them up on the softest settings making the ratio 130%/150% f/r. would this work?

Suggestions appreciated in advance!

Len

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by 110len

I have a few suspension setup questions for RCE/CSG.

I have a 2016 BRZ that I have been tracking a bit and doing AX with. It has the following upgrades:

RCE Tarmac2 coilovers with 400/400 springs. Settings are as follows:

front comp. 4 clicks open rear comp. 5 clicks open
rebound 6 clicks open rebound 9 clicks open

ride height front is 13.25 and rear 13.75 after springs settled (measured hub to fender).

alignment specs: LF -2.5 RF -2.5
front toe 3/16" out
LR -2.2 RR -2.1
rear toe 1/32"in

Tires are MPSS 245/35/18 all around

Power upgrades include JRSC, full exhaust and tune. Also AP Racing brakes up front. Bushings are next.

The car handles well but does have some understeer on entry and into mid corner which may be all me. Oversteer isn't a problem as long as my inputs are done properly.
I am looking to tune out the understeer and will change the alignment in front looking to get it around -3 to -3.3.

What other adjustments would you suggest with existing setup?
Also looking to go to a stickier tire such as a ZII or RE71 and get SPL RCAs and adjustable end links to corner balance the car.

If I were to get adjustable sway bars to help tune out the understeer as well as reduce body roll, how should I set them up? For example, the Perrin 22m is 130% and 218% stiffer than stock and their rear 19mm is 150%/243%/347% stiffer. I was thinking setting them up on the softest settings making the ratio 130%/150% f/r. would this work?

Suggestions appreciated in advance!

Len

One change at a time. Since adjusting knobs is free, try:

1. reduce front rebound 2 clicks

then try

2. increase rear compression 2 clicks

Record your notes and go back to baseline if that isn't a positive change.

Changing front negative camber to -3 is a good idea, especially if you move to a stickier tire.

After all that, consider swaybars.

- Andrew

[cjd]

Originally Posted by mjanmohammad

What do you guys recommend for alignment specs for a BRZ that will see autox monthly and HPDE every couple months? Current suspension mods are Vorshlag camber plates with RCE Yellows and rear LCA to be installed this weekend.

Start with -3 front -2 rear, zero toe all around, assuming you're on one of the current crop of 200TW tires or stickier.

Option to go a touch higher on front camber, and a very little bit of rear toe-in.

[110len]

I'll try it. Thanks to you both. I appreciate the input.