Regular Key Not Recognized

[3nl]

So tonight I got into my FR-S and went to turn the key and...won't turn. Take key out, try again, won't turn and notice the "Key not recognized" light on the dash blinking (It looks like a car on the left and a lock on the right - orange color, dead center between the tach and speed). Try about 30 more times, no dice.

I get out and check to make sure the battery in the key works - lock, unlock, and trunk pop all work from 50 feet away. The only thing the manual says is to take the key out and try again.

I ended up disconnecting the battery and reconnecting, but even that did nothing - still had the key not recognized light blinking. After about 20 minutes of constantly trying, waiting for my wife to come pick me up and bring my spare keys, it finally let me turn the key and start the car.

When I got home I tried it again, and the same thing happened, but started again after a handful of tries. Anyone else have this issue? No error codes or anything. It's a regular 2015 MT. It's still under warranty so Toyota can look at it, but I want to try and figure out what's up to make sure it actually gets fixed.

[Spuds]

Bad battery in the key maybe? Not sure if that's how the imobilizer chip is powered. Have any problems locking or unlocking it? Does the second key work with no issues?

Edit:lol I must have completely missed that second paragraph. Oops...

[3nl]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Bad battery in the key maybe? Not sure if that's how the imobilizer chip is powered. Have any problems locking or unlocking it? Does the second key work with no issues?

Edit:lol I must have completely missed that second paragraph. Oops...

That's what I thought initially and I'm going to replace them either way. But, the lock and unlock worked from far away and I can't imagine that not going before the immobilizer in terms of power needed to work.

I've had this happen a couple months after I got it, but taking the key out and trying again once or twice worked, which makes me think it might not just be the battery in the key.

[radroach]

@3nl I've never seen any posts about this. I say wait for what the dealership / shop says on the matter.

[humfrz]

Bubba says to try licking the key before you put it in .......




humfrz

[BRZnut]

Correctly me if I am wrong, but there is a chip in the key that does not depend on the key battery to work (unlike keyless start that does) that must be recognized by the car to allow the key to work. So your car's immobilization system is out of whack! See what the dealer finds out.

[steve99]

If the key wont physically turn lock , you have probably damaged the key slightly. This can happen if you drop keys etc . Check for any burrs or damage to key. rub any burrs with fine sandpaper, make sure key not bent and its going all the way into lock.


bit of graphite powder in lock may help


Im pretty sure the key models don't check key code till key turns in lock.


Immobiliser rf id chip in key head is not dependant on battery

[3nl]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Bubba says to try licking the key before you put it in .......




humfrz

It didn't have an effect on the cat, but it tasted like a handful of coins from a sticky cup holder and I'm not feeling so well anymore.

[3nl]

Originally Posted by steve99

If the key wont physically turn lock , you have probably damaged the key slightly. This can happen if you drop keys etc . Check for any burrs or damage to key. rub any burrs with fine sandpaper, make sure key not bent and its going all the way into lock.


bit of graphite powder in lock may help


Im pretty sure the key models don't check key code till key turns in lock.


Immobiliser rf id chip in key head is not dependant on battery

Jiggling the key in the lock didn't do anything and it isn't damaged. The pins can't be that damaged or worn after two years. The keyway and lock are fine. It must be imobilizer since the light was flashing on the dash, it definitely checks before the key turns.

Just checked. Immobilizer works the second the key is inserted.

[DJCarbine]

Almost sounds like the ignition/wheel lock is in a bind. Sometimes this can prevent the key from physically turning. When it happens again, try to gently turn the key while grabbing the steering wheel and turning back and forth. Does it feel like the steering wheel lock is engaged? They usually "CLICK" once you turn the wheel far enough with the key out of the ignition, which can cause issues if the wheel re-centers slightly due to the drag of your wheels on the pavement. Basically it should feel like hitting a wall while turning, and if the steering wheel is resting on this "lock/wall" you will have issues turning they key.

This doesn't explain the immobilizer funkiness, but usually what cock-blocks you from physically turning the key is a damaged key or steering wheel lock that is bound up.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by 3nl

Jiggling the key in the lock didn't do anything and it isn't damaged. The pins can't be that damaged or worn after two years. The keyway and lock are fine. It must be imobilizer since the light was flashing on the dash, it definitely checks before the key turns.

Just checked. Immobilizer works the second the key is inserted.

ok ,


looks like the rfid chip might be damaged hopefully its under warrantee.


If not a lock smith may be cheaper than dealer.


weird how it wont turn in barrel though

[sly]

The clue is that it said the key wasn't recognized. I don't think your steering wheel is in a bind. That wouldn't cause that error.

The chip in your key works by magnetic induction. It's a passive chip that takes no battery to operate. When you insert your key, a magnetic field in the tumbler energizes the chip which causes it to broadcast its RFID code. The immobilizer reads this code and releases your steering wheel lock and energizes your ignition. If you get a key not recognized error, something is wrong with the reading of this code.

Either you have a damaged key that is not broadcasting properly or you have a power issue to the magnetic transponder. If you slammed your key down on the ground really hard, it might be possible to damage the chip. But more likely, you could have an intermittent power issue with the magnetic transponder. Either way, you need to have the dealership fix it. They may have to issue you a new key or replace the wiring and the transponder.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by sly

The clue is that it said the key wasn't recognized. I don't think your steering wheel is in a bind. That wouldn't cause that error.

The chip in your key works by magnetic induction. It's a passive chip that takes no battery to operate. When you insert your key, a magnetic field in the tumbler energizes the chip which causes it to broadcast its RFID code. The immobilizer reads this code and releases your steering wheel lock and energizes your ignition. If you get a key not recognized error, something is wrong with the reading of this code.

Either you have a damaged key that is not broadcasting properly or you have a power issue to the magnetic transponder. If you slammed your key down on the ground really hard, it might be possible to damage the chip. But more likely, you could have an intermittent power issue with the magnetic transponder. Either way, you need to have the dealership fix it. They may have to issue you a new key or replace the wiring and the transponder.

not sure about usa, but here locksmiths can cut keys and recode rfid key/transponders and they are way cheaper than dealers. got a new rfid chip and recode for $50 (was a Suzuki swift though)

[3nl]

Originally Posted by steve99

not sure about usa, but here locksmiths can cut keys and recode rfid key/transponders and they are way cheaper than dealers. got a new rfid chip and recode for $50 (was a Suzuki swift though)

I'm still under warranty. Should be free.