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| Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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#71 | |
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not playing cards
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Quote:
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | finch1750 (08-11-2017) |
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#72 | |
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Senior Member
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Tcoat For This Useful Post: | NeverInTime (08-11-2017), Ultramaroon (08-11-2017) |
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#73 | |
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Undisputed El Presidente
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Anytime you ask sometime to endure greature force then it was meant for you are compromising it's lifespan. Whether it is a noticeable amount or not will vary. But in general terms NA engines that are made FI don't have the tolerance (high comp vs low comp, strength of internals, etc). Even FI motors with upped boost lose reliability. You could put down 400whp and be fine for 100k, but going into it you should be able to accept the possible outcomes (ie blown motor, broken tranny, etc) I don't get it. I mean the picture and how it demonstrates your point. I get your point about the miniscule water molecules burning off or whatever (I think) |
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#74 | |
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Sort of a "If I need to explain it then it isn't as funny as I thought" scenario I guess.
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Tcoat For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (08-11-2017) |
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#75 | |
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Undisputed El Presidente
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I figured something like that, I'm just not the most mechanically inclined person in that sense that looking at that just confused me lol |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to finch1750 For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (08-11-2017) |
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#76 |
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not playing cards
Join Date: Sep 2014
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It's ok. We still heart you, man. #nohomo #notthattheresanythingwrongwiththat
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#77 |
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Persona Non Grata
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Don't feel bad. Other than the steam driving the piston I was a little perplexed myself. Sorry T coat.
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Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast
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#78 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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#79 | |
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Senior Member
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........I'm not as forgiving.finch1750 ...... it's a STEAM ENGINE ....... not rocket science, here ...... ![]() In your defense, I reckon you didn't have those experiences in your childhood. humfrz |
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#80 | |
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Undisputed El Presidente
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There ya go lol |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to finch1750 For This Useful Post: | humfrz (08-11-2017) |
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#81 |
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Senior Member
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WOW
This discussion is........................ Interesting? |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to WNDSRFR For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (08-11-2017) |
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#82 |
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Persona Non Grata
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Most of us oldsters studied the dawn of the industrial age in school. It seems for humfrz it's a recent memory. lol
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Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Capt Spaulding For This Useful Post: | humfrz (08-11-2017), Ultramaroon (08-12-2017) |
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#83 |
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Member
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Wow, lots of response here. As was mentioned, go with the prescribed maintenance schedule. Get good, no, get great tires. You will feel the difference. Research tires depending on your driving. The same for brakes. Just an upgrade in pads can make a great difference. Once again they're dependent on your driving style. TRD mods... the TRD exhaust is pricey, adds a little deeper tone and doesn't do much. The TRD intake may give you 2hp increase but there is better response to it than stock. Sway bars, springs...are you doing any track days? If no don't waste the $. The Chassis was very well designed and once you upgrade your rubber you'll understand. Stay on top of maintenance, recalls and service bulletins and you'll be in great shape....then again if you want to throw $ at one of the finest designed and engineered rides then by all means, open up that bank account and buy, buy, buy. My only mods, great rubber which I'm still reviewing and a K&N filter. BTW, look at what the TRD intake uses for a filter. Save your $$ and buy ethanol free premium. Your car will love you for it.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to EddieZ2 For This Useful Post: | BigHugeFatGuy (08-12-2017) |
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#84 |
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Senior Member
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As was mentioned earlier, only thing I've personally experienced as major issue is the throwout bearing. Grenaded at shortly after 60,000 miles. Cost me close to $2K for the service, and I didn't see the updated bearing part until after it was done so I have the same original spec OEM part in there. There's some debate that the stock clutch fork is weak and contributing to this failure. The fork is weak if you go upgraded clutch, but for stock is prob ok.
Only other thing I did was get a decent AGM battery as those unsealed batteries like to leak out the top and make a corroded mess. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to root For This Useful Post: | guybo (08-12-2017) |
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