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#29 |
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Kuruma Otaku
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Wonder if they got JDM spec setup?
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#30 |
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So will the Prokit be ok with the standard shocks? Really just looking to lower the car by about an inch.
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#31 | |
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Quote:
The Pro-kit rates are lower and it has less drop obviously. Alignment should be within spec with the pro-kits at least, not 100% sure about the Sportlines but I'd guess so, but maybe the rear camber might be out of spec.
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#32 |
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Since I've lowered my car already... I can tell you that the camber gain from lowering is huge. I'm down 1", and have -1.7 and -2.1 camber in the rear. So you better think hard about that when you are getting ready to drop the car.
As for dampers with springs. It's smart if you make springs to tell the world that the stock dampers work with them, easier to sell $200 than have folks feel the need to spend more. That said, I never recommend it. Stock dampers are usually not that great. They are built to a price, and built to make the most folks buying the car happy enough. They are not premium stuff, not meant to last a long time, and most notably valved to work with (irony of irony) the stock springs, which are taller and softer.... Stiffer springs require more rebound damping to deal with the higher spring rate and greater amount of stored energy. Then add that the damper has to damp that higher rate/energy in a now shorter amount of travel. I have KW's on my car, with a bit of tweaking to the springs (still more than double teh stock rates). And you know what? The car not only tracks better, but while very firm, it's much less harsh than it was in stock trim too. |
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#33 |
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The camber gains have been all over the place so far. Agree on the rest. For me lowering springs would likely be temporary until I switched out to a threaded body setup.
However, the springs will work on stock dampers but of course the buyer should expect reduced lifespan on the dampers and depending on the spring rates the dampers may not be a great match for the dampers as well. On a new car it's still a workable (if not the most ideal) solution for those who want something now without spending the cash for the good stuff ![]() I suspect most of your front cable is from the lower strut mount, KW's are notched like usual. The rear camber of this car appears to be *very* sensitive to lowering though.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles Last edited by Dave-ROR; 07-03-2012 at 10:42 AM. |
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#34 |
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Pro-Kit (82105.140)
Front: lowers 1" | rate 148-200lbs/in Rear: lowers 1" | rate 103-274lbs/in Sportline (4.10582) Front: lowers 1.4" | rate 120-211lbs/in Rear: lowers 1.4" | rate 86-296lbs/in Both kits are progressive in design but that initial rate doesn't mean much. Even at static height the spring will already be into the upper end of the progessive rate. We do all of our own testing in Corona, CA. We did test the BRZ and FR-S shocks and they are both very similar. There wasn't enough difference to convince that they changed valving from the FR-S to BRZ. Our engineers think the shocks are most likely the same but just tested slightly different from one another. Most OE shocks will have a slight variance in shock dyno numbers from car to car. |
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#35 | |
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Kuruma Otaku
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#36 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Jackson For This Useful Post: | Dimman (07-03-2012) |
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#37 |
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i'm sorry, what?
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these OEM rates are shocking
with an equal weight split i was expecting equal spring rates, but this is pretty baller.
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#38 |
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I can't see how the gains have been all over the place. I can see numbers being all over based off where the car started life, but that's not a measure of the rate of gain, it's a measure of how much range there is between cars. My car might have had -1 to start in the rear, I really don't know. But assuming it was close to spec, it gained a good 1 degree (maybe more) in 1" of drop. Easy enough to find out, all some has to do is run a gain test on a car with the spring and shock removed. I wish I had time I'd do it today, but I'm leaving for Washington state in a few hours.
Point being, even lowering springs will gain you a lot of negative camber in the rear. If you don't want it there just for tire wear, or for balance of the car assuming you don't want to run a lot of negative front, then something will need done. I have Whiteline compensation kits because I know this will be an issue, I'm sure Eibach and others will have them soon too. Now, I want the camber because I autox and track day my stuff, and so for now I'm ok with the numbers I have. |
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#39 | |
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To be nice about it, the Toyota tuning might be a little more aggressive at lower speeds such as for Auto-X |
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#40 | |
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That Guy
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Oh, and a big thumbs up for the transparency. |
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#41 |
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#42 | |
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Quote:
Considering the cars are pretty much the same, there is some reason they did different springs and dampers. As for more neutral, well, that can also mean "have more understeer" vs. a car that is more free (which doesn't mean it's a oversteering mess either). |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Sam Strano For This Useful Post: | ill86 (07-05-2012) |
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