Car not starting after head unit/speaker/amp install? HELP!

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by guybo

He had already said it was an intermittent problem- it's not fixed. And how do you explain that it started in the first place without a jumpstart?

Once is not "interment".
Never had a car that wouldn't start the first try but would after sitting a while?

[Packofcrows]

Could be a bad ground/fuse. Ive had issues in different situations where i'm working with something installed thats new and it works fine a few times, then suddenly it doesnt and it turns out its a ground cable that was semi connected, then after vibration it comes off.

Check your wiring. My second take is also on the battery. What are your current specs on the one you have installed? I just go a Optima Red because of similar issues. Could have been battery was low as well. have you checked if battery needs maintenance or if its maintenance free?

...and yeah, know he said, 'starts fine now...' but doesnt mean its been fixed. Means it went away...for now.

[Tcoat]

Everybody has read that it is working fine now right?

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by guybo

This has nothing to do with the battery. If it was battery related, it'd try to start and fail. No noise, no click but power to the car means that something else is going on.

The shop that installed the stereo is responsible to fix this. Force the issue. They also have to fix that ground loop (the whining noise you hear). they were sloppy and should have picked that up right away.

Oh, @guybo , I just wish I could be as sure of things as you are ..... from just reading a brief description of a problem on the internet ......


humfrz

[DCStorm]

Hey guys just to update everyone and also add some more info...

Basically that night of the install it started normally as I drove it out of the shop. Later on I went to the store and that's when I was stuck in the parking lot till I got lucky after 50 tries to start it. No jumpstart was ever done to start it, ever. The next day it started in the morning and I took her straight to the shop that did the install. However it happened again and I was stuck there. Once it powered back on, the check engine light came on and the car couldn't display whether it was in P, or N or D, and whenever I'd put it in drive for example it would jerk really bad. I freaked out and took it to Toyota that same day but they didn't really do anything besides tell me to take it back and to check the grounds.

Up till today it starts to what seems like normally, only with that high pitched whining sound. I took it back yet again to the shop and they said they redid the ground locations, stripped some paint for better contact, but it still whines.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by DCStorm

Hey guys just to update everyone and also add some more info...

Basically that night of the install it started normally as I drove it out of the shop. Later on I went to the store and that's when I was stuck in the parking lot till I got lucky after 50 tries to start it. No jumpstart was ever done to start it, ever. The next day it started in the morning and I took her straight to the shop that did the install. However it happened again and I was stuck there. Once it powered back on, the check engine light came on and the car couldn't display whether it was in P, or N or D, and whenever I'd put it in drive for example it would jerk really bad. I freaked out and took it to Toyota that same day but they didn't really do anything besides tell me to take it back and to check the grounds.

Up till today it starts to what seems like normally, only with that high pitched whining sound. I took it back yet again to the shop and they said they redid the ground locations, stripped some paint for better contact, but it still whines.

If the dealer can't find anything wrong and the installer can't find anything wrong even though they both have access to actually see and touch the car I doubt there is much more info you can get from us.
Sounds like you had number two on the electrical issues check list.


Car won't start? Check in this order. Do not presume:
1) Battery power - Yes it can turn on accessories without even clicking the starter.
2) Ground and positive connections to battery - Even slightly loose or contaminated means there is not enough power to turn over starter.
3) Fuse - If blown figure out why don't just replace
4) Damaged or loose wires - Can be a bitch to find
5) Starter - NOW you look at the individual components (you don't start here as some would have you do)
6) ECU - Cross your fingers if you made it this far because things could go bad fast

[DCStorm]

I guess your right. However I greatly appreciate everybody in this forum who has pitched in their two cents to help me out. I was kinda panicking so I really appreciate it.

I'm most likely gonna just get rid of the amp and sub to reduce the power it's using to see if that helps with the whining sound, especially if it's coming from the alternator. It sucks but I'd rather have a reliable car then better sound.

[Scrappydoo]

Originally Posted by DCStorm

I guess your right. However I greatly appreciate everybody in this forum who has pitched in their two cents to help me out. I was kinda panicking so I really appreciate it.

I'm most likely gonna just get rid of the amp and sub to reduce the power it's using to see if that helps with the whining sound, especially if it's coming from the alternator. It sucks but I'd rather have a reliable car then better sound.

Controversial but I agree.

What are your views on stance ?

[DCStorm]

Lol no stance for me. I had my fun with that with my last car. My FRS is like my version of practically and fun all in one package. Not gonna ruin that with obnoxious camber and scraping frame everywhere I go lol, but to each their own.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by DCStorm

I guess your right. However I greatly appreciate everybody in this forum who has pitched in their two cents to help me out. I was kinda panicking so I really appreciate it.

I'm most likely gonna just get rid of the amp and sub to reduce the power it's using to see if that helps with the whining sound, especially if it's coming from the alternator. It sucks but I'd rather have a reliable car then better sound.

You can keep the amp and sub. The problem was probably just a one off from the installation. I would at least give it a week or so to see if it happens again before removing them. They are not harming the alternator in any way (unless you have some seriously heavy duty stuff installed).
Is the whining coming through the speakers?

[DCStorm]

I guess I'm just worried it's actually harming something. What I got was a 1200 watt amp and 10" sub and replaced the factory speakers. All products were Kicker with the exception of the new head unit.

I can't exactly pin point the exact location of the sound but it seems like a portion of it comes from the far left drivers side almost to the door. That's why I can't exactly pin point if it's coming from the speakers since there's 3 of them very close to where I'm hearing it lol. What I do know tho is it goes along with the RPM's of the engine. The higher the rev the louder it is and vice versa

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by DCStorm

I guess I'm just worried it's actually harming something. What I got was a 1200 watt amp and 10" sub and replaced the factory speakers. All products were Kicker with the exception of the new head unit.

I can't exactly pin point the exact location of the sound but it seems like a portion of it comes from the far left drivers side almost to the door. That's why I can't exactly pin point if it's coming from the speakers since there's 3 of them very close to where I'm hearing it lol. What I do know tho is it goes along with the RPM's of the engine. The higher the rev the louder it is and vice versa

Sounds like a feedback loop of some sort. Outside my area of expertize but no doubt somebody here can help. I find it odd that the installer couldn't identify it though.

[Helios]

Are the RCA plugs/ wiring for the speakers shielded or unshielded? Are they run in close proximity to the power wire run from the battery to the amp? If the wiring is unshielded and run next to the power wire, you may be getting induced EMI into the wiring to the speakers. If it's not that, the ground the audio shop used for the amp may not be good enough. It could also be a bad head unit. I would disconnect the power wire they connected to the battery for the amp and see what happens to the annoying sound.

[Helios]

I just did my own audio install. Post #12 explains how I routed my wiring. Ideally, no data or signal wiring should ever be run right next to power wires. Power wires should always be isolated from all other wiring when possible.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119436