RCE Tarmac and B6

[norcalpb]

RCE, do you think because we have macpherson struts in the front that we have inherent problems with camber loss? I only ask because I'm not sure if this is something that has more to do with older cars.

[weederr33]

This is exactly the set up I was looking for! Great to hear it's a good fit. I already have the whiteline camber bolts for the front and at some point might do the SPC or Velox control arms for the rear. I felt the $1100 for the tarmacs and the B6's would be just right for me. Especially since I don't need adjustable height and the dampening of the B6's sounds like it's good enough.

[JMon85]

Thanks good to know!

[JMon85]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

Hmmm. Here's a link to all of my events from last year that you can look at to see if it helps any (identical setup to this year minus a new catback exhaust). I typically pump the compression and rebound up really high. That seems to make the car relatively stiff in quick transitions (such as the slaloms). It's the longer sweepers where high compression doesn't do much because the car will still "settle" into the corner.

What's your new setup this year?

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...lR-jl7SQj1YatV

Looks fun! Subscribed

[Gforce]

And now Subaru makes a 15 mm rear bar for the 2017 cars.

That makes a choice of 14 mm stock, 15 mm factory, 16 mm adjustable from Whiteline, though they do not publish the equivalency of each of the three link locations in each end of their bar. In theory that adjustment gives a choice of six effective rear bar rates.

Camber delivers grip without affecting roll rates, all other things being equal. Camber delivers grip by camber thrust, the tire physically resists being compressed into the road rather than resists being scrubbed across the road, more like a motorcycle tire and less like a car tire. This creates serious overheating problems quite quickly on the road or track.

Camber ideally is specified to provide even tire wear considering how the car will be driven normally on the street. Racing tires are sensitive to incorrect camber because of temperature effects caused by excessive camber on one side of the contact patch as compared to the other side. So camber is also carefully considered for track work. There is likely not much difference between ideal camber for the road or for the track when using street tires. A tire temperature gauge is very useful for testing for this if the seat of your pants isn't working for you.

Auto X typically does not overheat tires to the point that one side of the contact patch works less optimally than it could. You can therefore get away with a lot more camber than might otherwise be ideal. A slalom and a skid pad can similarly mislead you into dialling in too much camber.

[Gforce]

Originally Posted by smg1138

I forgot to mention the 22mm Strano bar is tubular, not solid. I'm sure you guys know that, but some people may not. Just wanted to avoid any confusion.

Which would be only slightly stiffer than the 20 mm solid bar. Maybe just enough to hit the sweet spot with that 16 mm rear bar.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by norcalpb

RCE, do you think because we have macpherson struts in the front that we have inherent problems with camber loss? I only ask because I'm not sure if this is something that has more to do with older cars.

It's a consideration but it's not nearly as bad as it was on older cars (even say the GD chassis impreza).

But a little camber goes a long way.

- Andrew

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

rookie question, but you need to buy camber plates to be able to adjust camber, right? That type of adjustability doesn't come with aftermarket coilovers?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

rookie question, but you need to buy camber plates to be able to adjust camber, right? That type of adjustability doesn't come with aftermarket coilovers?

You could just get camber bolts. Inexpensive and effective.

Camber plates are useful if you need/want a lot of camber or want a solid plate instead of a rubber top mount.

- Andrew

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

You could just get camber bolts. Inexpensive and effective.

Camber plates are useful if you need/want a lot of camber or want a solid plate instead of a rubber top mount.

- Andrew

Okay thanks! And these camber bolts go into which part? I'm only looking to go -1.5 at the front and -1.0 at the back, and I'm guessing the bolts provide a fixed camber angle?

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Okay thanks! And these camber bolts go into which part? I'm only looking to go -1.5 at the front and -1.0 at the back, and I'm guessing the bolts provide a fixed camber angle?

No they're adjustable. This should help:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25001


iirc some struts like Racecomps are slotted to allow for additional camber adjustment.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

No they're adjustable. This should help:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25001


iirc some struts like Racecomps are slotted to allow for additional camber adjustment.

Thanks, I was looking for that thread.

Yeah our coilovers have the lower mount slotted so you can get some adjustment there too. But factory struts and Bilsteins are not.

- Andrew

[churchx]

StraightOuttaCanadaEh: take note, that camberbolts - for front. There is way to adjust camber in rear with excentric bushings, but it is PITA and lot of work (they charge for) for shop. So in addition to camberbolts for front, for rear get LCAs. Eg. cheapest/stock alike - SPC.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by churchx

StraightOuttaCanadaEh: take note, that camberbolts - for front. There is way to adjust camber in rear with excentric bushings, but it is PITA and lot of work (they charge for) for shop. So in addition to camberbolts for front, for rear get LCAs. Eg. cheapest/stock alike - SPC.

I'll get it lowered and aligned first and see what kind of camber I end up with, and then invest in LCAs and camber bolts if needed. Thanks!