How much will it cost to turbo my car?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by GTHachiRoku

My biggest disappointment with going turbo is that I can't​ go WOT for very long before my speed is in the illegal zone ��

Also one of the reasons I decided FI wasn't worth it for me.

[Phantobe]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Also one of the reasons I decided FI wasn't worth it for me.

I almost pulled the trigger on FI multiple times, but with some new Japanese sports cars potentially on the horizon I'm holding off lol.

Namely... the new Supra, S-FR and possibly a new Z car. We'll see what happens at the Tokyo Autoshow :p hngggggggg

[Xxyion]

Originally Posted by Infinity

Can you go into more detail with your thoughts on this? Particularly, how the EBSC affected throttle response and engine feel below 3k rpm? I have been under the impression the twin screw SC systems have the best low rpm throttle response.

Absolutely. Remember take my experience with a grain of salt.

So the Edelbrock has a few quirks that bother me.

When its cold. At low RPM from full stop. I find that the kit tends to be a bit jerky. I cant just ease off the clutch and onto the gas and it be a smooth acceleration. This particular issue is a lot less apparent if the weather is at 65 degrees or warmer and the car has warmed up. Which makes sense and i can understand.

Another thing directly related to that issue is that i can feel the Parasitic Load on the engine. It means that if i dont necessarily have the best clutch or throttle control when starting from a full stop i can actually feel the engine lose RPMS and almost die because it cant generate enough power to start up the SC. This SC takes about 10-15 hp just to get going. And i can feel that.

Technically yes the car has awesome throttle punch. And its definetly apparent if i get a good start or do a launch. The car is smooth all the way through the power band without any sort of jerkiness. However i cant always drive like that. I have to be pretty light on the throttle due to cops in my area.


A lot of this i'm comparing to when i drove my friends OFT Stage 1 NA FRS, an SBD Kit FRS and a JRSC BRZ. I realize i much rather prefer a super super tame low end. The JRSC was nice because it supplied that. However i wasnt a fan of how it felt that way all the way through 6th gear if you were to drive it granny style.

The SBD Turbo was nice because only first gear was tame (building boost) and then it all hit you in 2nd gear. Which is how i like my driving experience. My Ford Fiesta ST drives the same (duh, small turbo)and i really like that kind of experience.

My perfect idea of throttle response was actually when i had UEL headers with a stage 2 OFT tune. That by far felt the best for me. I was hoping it would stay that way switching to the Edelbrock but i didnt quite comprehend "low end torque" properly. I had only had turbo experience and for some reason imagined it to be the same. Thats my fault for assuming.


All in all i "think" how i want my car now. Is calm slow low end and first gear. Lots of mid range torque (starting at around 3200) and the power reaching its limit at around 7k RPM. I actually dont mind the fall off. I'm going to be doing more research into it but i hope i can find my ultimate drive build.


Honestly though. No regrets. Sure i could have saved myself a lot of money. But this is my first time doing major mods to a car. I was fully prepared to make these kinds of mistakes. And i have the funds to support it.

[bfrank1972]

Honestly, this sounds like it could be mitigated with a revision to your tune & throttle mapping. But I might be wrong - other Edelbrock owners might want to chime in.

[MattTheGinge]

Heres my take on the whole FI situation, im budgiting around 10k for my build, but i only plan on spending around 5k.
JDL BB upgrade ~ $3500
oil cooler ~ $600
ecutek+cable+tune~ $1000
catch can ~ $200

the remaining 5k is for a replacement motor, and problem resolution. I know this cars limits and I understand that while yes you can squeeze more power out of this cars engine, 280-300hp is enough to put a smile on my face, any more than that and il be looking at other cars before I look at adding another 100hp on top of that. This car is a daily for me with the occasional hooning and drift event. this will probably be the last major thing i do to this platform before i go out and buy a beater/dedicated track car. id have to say the main take away is know your cars limits based on your driving style, and build the car to exceed those limits. you cant pay to replace stuff if you dont have a car to drive to work, so either set asside some money ahead of time, or have another DD

[GTHachiRoku]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Also one of the reasons I decided FI wasn't worth it for me.

Yeah, I got a very nice deal on a used custom kit. Otherwise I wouldn't have done FI ... for the amount it usually requires. To be honest, I'd rather spend $10k on a more capable car from the factory then dump it into a twin.

[Xxyion]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

Honestly, this sounds like it could be mitigated with a revision to your tune & throttle mapping. But I might be wrong - other Edelbrock owners might want to chime in.

I thought so too but my friend who also has the Edelbrock has the same issues last I heard from him. But he is also in an automatic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bfranklyn86]

Originally Posted by Xxyion

Absolutely. Remember take my experience with a grain of salt.


When its cold. At low RPM from full stop. I find that the kit tends to be a bit jerky. I cant just ease off the clutch and onto the gas and it be a smooth acceleration. This particular issue is a lot less apparent if the weather is at 65 degrees or warmer and the car has warmed up. Which makes sense and i can understand.

Another thing directly related to that issue is that i can feel the Parasitic Load on the engine. It means that if i dont necessarily have the best clutch or throttle control when starting from a full stop i can actually feel the engine lose RPMS and almost die because it cant generate enough power to start up the SC. This SC takes about 10-15 hp just to get going. And i can feel that.

Edit

I get these exact issues with my TVS1320. I just ignore it because overall the car is so much better with the kit on. For me I want the extra power lower down to respond instantly to traffic and general drivability. I don't want it all at the top end (centri SC) or hitting me suddenly mid range after lag (turbo).

What you are saying about the parasitic loss makes sense, but why would it only happen when cold?

I think this did pop up a while ago on edelbrock thread and people were talking MAF scaling/retunes or some stuff I didn't really understand. I was going to speak to my tuner about it when it's time for a re-tune - I.e when I get round to getting the headers done.

Edit: I'm in a manual. Also, with the vibration issue you mentioned in a previous post, I fixed (pretty much) by getting the intec high level brake light. (If we are talking the same vibration issue)

[Xxyion]

Originally Posted by Bfranklyn86

I get these exact issues with my TVS1320. I just ignore it because overall the car is so much better with the kit on. For me I want the extra power lower down to respond instantly to traffic and general drivability. I don't want it all at the top end (centri SC) or hitting me suddenly mid range after lag (turbo).

What you are saying about the parasitic loss makes sense, but why would it only happen when cold?

I think this did pop up a while ago on edelbrock thread and people were talking MAF scaling/retunes or some stuff I didn't really understand. I was going to speak to my tuner about it when it's time for a re-tune - I.e when I get round to getting the headers done.

Edit: I'm in a manual. Also, with the vibration issue you mentioned in a previous post, I fixed (pretty much) by getting the intec high level brake light. (If we are talking the same vibration issue)

Its not that it happens only when its cold. It's more i notice it a lot more when its cold. When things arent running super silky smooth yet.

Honestly the vibration issue is a very objective complaint. I'm a super picky person but always for the things that noone else ever notices.

[sachu]

Read through the whole thread.

Am at a similar crossroads and am seriously considering going FI.

This is my second FR_S.

returned the first one, a 2015 FR-S with 25,500 miles most of that run NA with full bolt on and tune. Loved the car.

Returned it after a 2 year lease this past december. Took all the mods off of the car before I returned it and kept them around (but solfd off the Skunk2 header and intake).

Got a second FR-S about a month ago, also a 2015 but in the color I originally wanted (Ashpalt Gray) with 20k miles on it. came with a TRD exhuast on it already.

Now, I have been considering going either full bolt on and putting all my previous mods on the car but with a drop in -filter (so i can add an oil cooler) and a Tomei UEL header.

However, even when putting down almost 190WHP with the previous car, I always felt I could use just a wee bit more.

The dollar to HP says FI is the sensible way to go. Not withstanding any of the maintenance costs.

Coming to FI, debating between a SC and a turbo rig, cost wise the turbo initially sounds more attractice since you don't have the added cost of the header.

The options I see before me are:

1> NA, full bolt ons and drop in filter + oil cooler. : about 180WHP Out of pocket - 1700$ (header+tune+oil cooler)

2> Supercharger, Harrop with Tomei UEL - about 300WHP 92 pump gas - 6800-6900$ (harrop kit+tomei UEl+install+tune+ oil cooler +catch can)

3> Turbo with GTX2687R: about 250-280WHP. Stock fuel system - 6600 (kit+oil cooler+install and tune)

I know the tune is most important regardless of which config I decide to run in but I have no fear in that regard as, well VitViper is fucking awesome.

I plan on keeping the car atleast 5 years.

I have another DD.

This is purely my play car.

All in I expect to be in for about 25k if I went the FI route, which is about the price of a new GT86.

I realize the added weight is going to change the charecteristics of the car. As to how worse it will be, I have no idea.

Already have the wheels and tires to handle the extra power.

If needed, i will plan to add a brake kit for the front and some suspension.

Mostly, this will be a DD with the occasional track day.

Space to work on the car is not a problem, the skill required however is what I lack.

Very confused after reading all the posts above and part of me wonders if I should just stick to option 1, especially if the characteristics of the car changes noticeably to the worse.

For instance, I could detect instantly the addition of a strut tower brace and even more so the installation of a 5lb shorai battery instead of the factory one. The loss of 20lbs made a big difference to how the car turned in.

edit: I will add, I also drive kinda aggressive. So there is the added issue of getting into trouble with the po-po with a faster car. I've been pulled over about 4 times in the two years I had the silver FR-S including once alledgely for clocking 110 on the radar which I of course denied ever doing....cause I didn't.

[Amputechture]

Originally Posted by sachu

Read through the whole thread.

Am at a similar crossroads and am seriously considering going FI.

This is my second FR_S.

returned the first one, a 2015 FR-S with 25,500 miles most of that run NA with full bolt on and tune. Loved the car.

Returned it after a 2 year lease this past december. Took all the mods off of the car before I returned it and kept them around (but solfd off the Skunk2 header and intake).

Got a second FR-S about a month ago, also a 2015 but in the color I originally wanted (Ashpalt Gray) with 20k miles on it. came with a TRD exhuast on it already.

Now, I have been considering going either full bolt on and putting all my previous mods on the car but with a drop in -filter (so i can add an oil cooler) and a Tomei UEL header.

However, even when putting down almost 190WHP with the previous car, I always felt I could use just a wee bit more.

The dollar to HP says FI is the sensible way to go. Not withstanding any of the maintenance costs.

Coming to FI, debating between a SC and a turbo rig, cost wise the turbo initially sounds more attractice since you don't have the added cost of the header.

The options I see before me are:

1> NA, full bolt ons and drop in filter + oil cooler. : about 180WHP Out of pocket - 1700$ (header+tune+oil cooler)

2> Supercharger, Harrop with Tomei UEL - about 300WHP 92 pump gas - 6800-6900$ (harrop kit+tomei UEl+install+tune+ oil cooler +catch can)

3> Turbo with GTX2687R: about 250-280WHP. Stock fuel system - 6600 (kit+oil cooler+install and tune)

I know the tune is most important regardless of which config I decide to run in but I have no fear in that regard as, well VitViper is fucking awesome.

I plan on keeping the car atleast 5 years.

I have another DD.

This is purely my play car.

All in I expect to be in for about 25k if I went the FI route, which is about the price of a new GT86.

I realize the added weight is going to change the charecteristics of the car. As to how worse it will be, I have no idea.

Already have the wheels and tires to handle the extra power.

If needed, i will plan to add a brake kit for the front and some suspension.

Mostly, this will be a DD with the occasional track day.

Space to work on the car is not a problem, the skill required however is what I lack.

Very confused after reading all the posts above and part of me wonders if I should just stick to option 1, especially if the characteristics of the car changes noticeably to the worse.

For instance, I could detect instantly the addition of a strut tower brace and even more so the installation of a 5lb shorai battery instead of the factory one. The loss of 20lbs made a big difference to how the car turned in.

edit: I will add, I also drive kinda aggressive. So there is the added issue of getting into trouble with the po-po with a faster car. I've been pulled over about 4 times in the two years I had the silver FR-S including once alledgely for clocking 110 on the radar which I of course denied ever doing....cause I didn't.

You can make way more than 250ish on a gtx28 and stock fueling/pump.

[Teseo]

Originally Posted by sachu

Read through the whole thread.

Am at a similar crossroads and am seriously considering going FI.

This is my second FR_S.

returned the first one, a 2015 FR-S with 25,500 miles most of that run NA with full bolt on and tune. Loved the car.

Returned it after a 2 year lease this past december. Took all the mods off of the car before I returned it and kept them around (but solfd off the Skunk2 header and intake).

Got a second FR-S about a month ago, also a 2015 but in the color I originally wanted (Ashpalt Gray) with 20k miles on it. came with a TRD exhuast on it already.

Now, I have been considering going either full bolt on and putting all my previous mods on the car but with a drop in -filter (so i can add an oil cooler) and a Tomei UEL header.

However, even when putting down almost 190WHP with the previous car, I always felt I could use just a wee bit more.

The dollar to HP says FI is the sensible way to go. Not withstanding any of the maintenance costs.

Coming to FI, debating between a SC and a turbo rig, cost wise the turbo initially sounds more attractice since you don't have the added cost of the header.

The options I see before me are:

1> NA, full bolt ons and drop in filter + oil cooler. : about 180WHP Out of pocket - 1700$ (header+tune+oil cooler)

2> Supercharger, Harrop with Tomei UEL - about 300WHP 92 pump gas - 6800-6900$ (harrop kit+tomei UEl+install+tune+ oil cooler +catch can)

3> Turbo with GTX2687R: about 250-280WHP. Stock fuel system - 6600 (kit+oil cooler+install and tune)

I know the tune is most important regardless of which config I decide to run in but I have no fear in that regard as, well VitViper is fucking awesome.

I plan on keeping the car atleast 5 years.

I have another DD.

This is purely my play car.

All in I expect to be in for about 25k if I went the FI route, which is about the price of a new GT86.

I realize the added weight is going to change the charecteristics of the car. As to how worse it will be, I have no idea.

Already have the wheels and tires to handle the extra power.

If needed, i will plan to add a brake kit for the front and some suspension.

Mostly, this will be a DD with the occasional track day.

Space to work on the car is not a problem, the skill required however is what I lack.

Very confused after reading all the posts above and part of me wonders if I should just stick to option 1, especially if the characteristics of the car changes noticeably to the worse.

For instance, I could detect instantly the addition of a strut tower brace and even more so the installation of a 5lb shorai battery instead of the factory one. The loss of 20lbs made a big difference to how the car turned in.

edit: I will add, I also drive kinda aggressive. So there is the added issue of getting into trouble with the po-po with a faster car. I've been pulled over about 4 times in the two years I had the silver FR-S including once alledgely for clocking 110 on the radar which I of course denied ever doing....cause I didn't.

Go with #1 option for a while, if you decide going FI do SC of your choice. You will have half path complete with header and ecutek, just need another tune/map for FI. I considere it long term build.

[sachu]

well.. i put in an order for a turbo kit.

Probably install late august. Have other stuff going on till then plus the tuner is booked right now 2 months out anyhow.

[Jmonty]

Originally Posted by sachu

well.. i put in an order for a turbo kit.

Probably install late august. Have other stuff going on till then plus the tuner is booked right now 2 months out anyhow.

Vit's kit?