Advice before purchasing heavily modified 86

[Braces]

Not sure a car this heavily modified would be a reliable daily driver. If you have some mechanical knowledge ... this might be a good project car at the RIGHT price.

Just buy a used Holden GTS.

[Cole]

Originally Posted by Insane

Thanks for the thoughts.

Unfortunately I could never justify dropping 10k + 5k in engineering certification to give this car forced induction, which is what pretty much every review I have seen of a forced induction 86/BRZ has said it needs/deserves.

Does this mean I should just not get an 86/BRZ?

I would get the car fully mechanically inspected.

Ergh :/

Wait. Have you even driven a twin, and not just read reviews? This car definitely doesn't need boost. What it needs is someone who isn't chickenshit behind the wheel who will go 11/10 to get power out of the engine.

I guarantee you that it will take you years and years and years to outdrive the car to the point you need boost, but you sound like you're closer to the "OMG I TOTALLY NEED BOOST OR ELSE THIS CAR IS UNDRIVABLE BECAUSE MATT FARRAH AND TJ HUNT TOLD ME IT NEEDS TURBOS AND SUPERCHARGERS" end of the spectrum

[Riftur]

If I were you I would buy an unmolested BRZ/86 and modify it yourself. You know the car has been driven hard or there would be no point in adding the turbo. You might save money now by buying one with the work done already but in the long run you will spend more on repairs fixing things that will break. Your not even getting a good deal if you ask me. If you buy a brand new 86 and put a edelbrock S/C on it, edelbrock will warranty the car. It will cost you around 6k for the work but thats only 3k more than buying one thats abused already. Its worth the extra 3k if you ask me.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

I would buy it, but for less than stock

[Riftur]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

I would buy it, but for less than stock

If the price was a lot less I would pay someone to scope the engine and make sure the internals are still in good condition. If everything looks good I would pay Bluebook + maybe 3k more depending on the condition of the car. That's just me. Don't forget you are getting a 2013 not a 2017. The guy wants 38k aud/ 29k us?

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Make an offer and walk away. The car depreciates as time goes on a his patience wears out. Chances are he'll contact you about your offer later

[VIP BRZ]

i would not plan to daily drive this car, plan on this thing exploding.

[mazeroni]

Does you insurance cover mods? If someone smashed into you, you wouldn't get back 3K over MSRP of a new 2017, right? You would get used 2013 values, which where I live with 45K miles is like $13K.

That is why people take the car back to stock and part out the car when they sell them. You shouldn't be paying for someone else's used stuff. But maybe I am wrong.

You could probably find a lightly used 2014 or 2015 for a lot less, then spend the difference on mods.

[Riftur]

Originally Posted by Cole

Wait. Have you even driven a twin, and not just read reviews? This car definitely doesn't need boost. What it needs is someone who isn't chickenshit behind the wheel who will go 11/10 to get power out of the engine.

I guarantee you that it will take you years and years and years to outdrive the car to the point you need boost, but you sound like you're closer to the "OMG I TOTALLY NEED BOOST OR ELSE THIS CAR IS UNDRIVABLE BECAUSE MATT FARRAH AND TJ HUNT TOLD ME IT NEEDS TURBOS AND SUPERCHARGERS" end of the spectrum

While I agree with you about people learning to drive the car better, that mostly refers to tracking the car. There is not many places you will drive on the street that it will apply. I honestly believe as in my case the F/I is being done mostly for street racing. As bad as that sounds, that is where most racing is being done. In the US its red light to red light and as many people point out this car was not made for that. Until you add F/I that is. Then you get the best of both worlds. At least thats what I have read. There is just something that does not sit right about a v6 mustang blowing my doors off from a stop light. Not that I condone or do any kind of street racing.

[Shinigami301]

It's obvious that the OP knows better but is hoping people will talk him into this bad decision. Hopefully he will look at the poll results.

[PetrolioBenzina]

Originally Posted by Riftur

While I agree with you about people learning to drive the car better, that mostly refers to tracking the car. There is not many places you will drive on the street that it will apply. I honestly believe as in my case the F/I is being done mostly for street racing. As bad as that sounds, that is where most racing is being done. In the US its red light to red light and as many people point out this car was not made for that. Until you add F/I that is. Then you get the best of both worlds. At least thats what I have read. There is just something that does not sit right about a v6 mustang blowing my doors off from a stop light. Not that I condone or do any kind of street racing.

Try to only kill yourself, please.

[PetrolioBenzina]

Originally Posted by Cole

Wait. Have you even driven a twin, and not just read reviews? This car definitely doesn't need boost. What it needs is someone who isn't chickenshit behind the wheel who will go 11/10 to get power out of the engine.

I guarantee you that it will take you years and years and years to outdrive the car to the point you need boost, but you sound like you're closer to the "OMG I TOTALLY NEED BOOST OR ELSE THIS CAR IS UNDRIVABLE BECAUSE MATT FARRAH AND TJ HUNT TOLD ME IT NEEDS TURBOS AND SUPERCHARGERS" end of the spectrum

You are talking about people with three skills; spending money, stomping the gas, stomping the brake. Talking to them about learning to drive the car well is a waste of time. Part of what makes it a great learning tool IS the lack of power. It must suck to live where all you have is a boring strip of road with a stoplight at either the end of it.

[carsebuco]

If you ever decide to buy, make sure he has receipts for everything. I'd never buy a car that wasn't professionally modded.

[Riftur]

Originally Posted by Insane

Hi guys,

New member here. I'm looking at purchasing an 86/BRZ in Australia and am looking for some advice about a potential car I've seen for sale.*

Its a highly modified 2013 86 GT, with 76,000 km.

The owner has dropped a lot of coin on the car, which is why it appeals to me over purchasing a stock 2nd hand or new one. The asking price is about $3,000 more than a stock 2017 86 GT.

The car will be my daily driver, but I love the looks of it and the fact that it has lots of extra power, I just really don't want to "buy someone else's headache" and get stuck with continued repair bills for one thing or another breaking for the life of my ownership.

The performance mods that may be of concern to me are roughly as follows:

- DTM wheels
- hancook RS3 tyres
- light weight p2 red pulley kit upgrade.
- raceseng oil cap/cover kit
- raceseng oil plate*
- BC blue adjustable coil overs
- zentronic e85 eflex converter
- zentronoc e85 interior display guage.
-upgraded mishimotor radiator
- extra heavy duty stage 2 race clutch
- blouch turbo kit
- adjustable sway bars and tail arms.
- full invidia N1 exhaust.
- perrin overpipe
- cat delete pipe comes with car not installed.
-catch can
- fuel pump
- 900cc injectors
- full Engineer certificate

Some red flags for me that I would like reassurance about..

- "So i have snapped in total of 2 axels, they snap when the car is under load and you hit a pump, one wheel lifts and touches the ground and all pressure goes to the axel, being very powerful causes it to snap. In saying that, ive only ever snapped axels when the car was very low, ive now had it raised to 140mm (over legal height) so that issue does not happen again) I have not had any issues since then and i don't expect to as the weight distribution is so much better than having camber. ". My research has indicated this is correct and that raising the ride height nearer to stock prevents axles snapping in most situations.

- Turbo.* " With my tune these kits are rated for over 300kw, i did not dare go past 280kw i left mine for street use at 255kw atw so its at a very very safe tune while still being very quick, there is alot of room to go faster but i would reccomend doing the internals first because after 270kw kts a risky game. It is tuned for reliability, and something that won't harm the gear box. Alot of guys push for more power however its pointless. Its not worth ruining the internals for the sake of another 30+kw atw. In short, i wasnt a idiot, i had the tuner have it tuned for reliability and where no harm can be done to the engine from trying to push out too much. "

I've seen SC kits etc that advertise about 190kw at the wheels as being safe for the engine, is 255kw really safe for these engines or is it just waiting to grenade? I would potentially be fine with lowering boost if necessary to provide reliability.

- The car has a front tow hook fitted, although the owner insists the car has never been tracked. Is this something people do for aesthetics or is it generally only functional and indicates that the car has been tracked heavily?

- The owner said "The timing belt snapped twice recently due to smooth pulleys so I had those replaced recently with brand new ones that cost about $800 installed. If there have been any issues they have been fixed right away by PVS tuning as those guys are the best tuners in the Sydney area for the 86/BRZ. "

This is a big flag for me potentially, is this a common occurrence with boosted engines? When the timing belt snaps, is there potential for it to damage engine internals? Slightly bent rods etc that are going to get worse? Is the fix for the belt snapping to replace the pulleys?

Thank you all so much in advance, I love the 86 and I love the way this one looks (I didn't list all the aesthetic mods) I just really don't want to purchase a lemon, and frankly I don't have enough money to be constantly replacing bits and pieces of the car as they break, over about $1500/year.* The odd problem from wear is fine though, just not whole assemblies.

Thanks
Insane

Read this thread to see what modified cars are selling for. I know they dont deal with Australian laws so I don't know how much this helps.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=69