horsepower goal

[WolfsFang]

300 whp or 250 wtq what ever comes first. If a turbo/supercharger isent to much I will go for that. Im gussing to get to my goal i will need.
-Exhaust
-Intake
-Headers
-HKS Gasket (low compression)
-Pistons
-Maybe injectors and fuel pump?

[Tainen]

Originally Posted by Dkittrell

Ok let me rephrase that . If you change the header you run the risk of running lean and blowing your motor unless a tune is put on the car to match the system

hmm. We've been watching the AFRs with the headers both on the dyno and on the street- they are pretty much the same as stock. I don't think it's a worry. At least with the nameless. I wouldn't run that junk chinese one we've seen around the forum, it looks terrible and might throw a CEL and/or mess with the motor a bit.

I know I probably sound biased, haha. But it's true, I've had headers on the car for a week with zero issues. no limp mode, no CEL, nice and strong- did over 100 WOT pulls on it during the track day with no issues. That was all after several dyno pulls, data log events, and letting the car idle for a while, so I felt safe doing it. You get what you pay for I guess.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by WolfsFang

300 whp or 250 wtq what ever comes first. If a turbo/supercharger isent to much I will go for that. Im gussing to get to my goal i will need.
-Exhaust
-Intake
-Headers
-HKS Gasket (low compression)
-Pistons
-Maybe injectors and fuel pump?

If you don't go for turbo and leave the car N/A, lowering compression will only result in loosing power, no gains at all. The gasket would be needed when you want to run higher Lbs. on forced injection.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by WingsofWar

the great thing about distributorless ignition is that its spark is more accurate and precise because its directly controlled via ECU. It removes so many issues that distributors/wires/and IDI coil packs suffer from.

But when start adding power, especially 30-40-60% more than factory. We have to wonder, is the ECU keeping up with the ignition and power demands to provide the best spark?

In theory, the bad thing about distributorless ignition whe modding, is that its tied directly to the cars main electric source. So if the stock BRZ alternator amp for example, is a measly 40-60 amps you bet your ass your going to have bad ignition properties.

On cars today, there hasn't really been a whole lot of evidence that says that mid-high modded cars running on factory distributorless ignition systems, suffer from break up. But I dont want to ignore the possibilities.

So as a precaution on my mod list..i listed high amp alternator and a CDI box. Just for the peace of mind that no matter what power goals i have, my ignition system wont suffer from any unplanned elements that might occur of my journey for more performance.

Fair enough. I wouldn't argue against being safe, hell I put DSS stage 2 axles on my neon. I was making a quarter of the power they were rated for, but it was nice to not have to worry about then when I was at a track four hours from home, without a leave pass....

That said,I went out and checked the tag on my alternator and it says 12V 130A umungst other numbers. I wouldn't take that as gospel but it seems to me that it's a 130 amp alternator, no problem there. That only leaves the drivers in the ECU. Well and the wiring, but I'm not worried about that.

[WolfsFang]

Originally Posted by sportsguy83

If you don't go for turbo and leave the car N/A, lowering compression will only result in loosing power, no gains at all. The gasket would be needed when you want to run higher Lbs. on forced injection.

thanks for the info. So if i stay NA i will want the higher compression one?

[WingsofWar]

Originally Posted by Calum

Fair enough. I wouldn't argue against being safe, hell I put DSS stage 2 axles on my neon. I was making a quarter of the power they were rated for, but it was nice to not have to worry about then when I was at a track four hours from home, without a leave pass....

That said,I went out and checked the tag on my alternator and it says 12V 130A umungst other numbers. I wouldn't take that as gospel but it seems to me that it's a 130 amp alternator, no problem there. That only leaves the drivers in the ECU. Well and the wiring, but I'm not worried about that.

oooo 130amp is enough to cycle power for the ignition imo..so maybe a higher output alternator might not be necessary. thanks!

[Asterisked Accolade]

Originally Posted by WingsofWar

well lets take your goal... to me...we can search for that extra 50hp..and think thats pretty easy 250hp is doable..

but in reality, im looking at finding 90whp to get to the 250hp goal. getting almost 100hp (90whp) additional out of a 2.0 4cylinder in the past has been pretty ambitious..and even required some engine builders to compromise streetability for performance.

then we have the chassis. Now this car is not exactly heavy. Sure we think 2800lbs is nothing new and its considered light for most modern production cars, my rx7 was 2700lbs and I felt it wasn't as nimble as the FRS around corners. If you take 200-300lbs off the Zx6 chassis, we really start to sacrifice that level of comfort we associate with a well balanced factory sports car. Taking off rear seats + factory seats, sound deadening, removing metal from the chassis, lighter wheels, etc,, by the time we reach 200-300lbs..you might as well strip the car down bare because its no longer that comfortable for street application...

At this point you look at all the stuff you have done...you have a monster...all that work and effort. only to catch up to a modded 350z in performance (in terms of numbers)...while the 350z might even still be more comfortable to drive.

I am not too worried about comfortability. I like a "harsh" ride which the women in my life describe as "riding in a lumber wagon." It's more visceral-- and that's how i like my cars, even on the street. I have a GMC Safari if i feel like riding in plush comfort-- honestly it's like a hotel lounge on wheels. I don't at all mind that i would catch up to a modded 350z. Any modified car would only be catching up to a different less modified car.

Also, there are other members saying they want 300+whp and i don't think they've received the same level of scrutiny you've kind of aimed toward me.

My Celica is stiff and gutted and i don't have a problem with it.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by WolfsFang

thanks for the info. So if i stay NA i will want the higher compression one?

There are different ways to go about it, but as a general rule, if your car is already 12.5:1 compression ratio and you are building an N/A setup, there is no gain in lowering the compression ratio, the only result is lower HP.

The benefit of lowering compression ratio is it allows you to boost to higher psi. Example, both cars with engine built equally, only difference is 9:1 ratio and the other is 12.5:1, is that the 9:1 car will be able to hold higher boost without risking breaking it. This is in very simple terms there are more things into it, but it gives you an idea.

[KAB-FRS]

mine is 750hp by next year, we will see if we can meet that goal

[yuli8466]

200whp. NA setting, 9000+ rpm redline if possible.


250whp. Supercharge if possible. 7500 redline. adding less than 30 lbs of weight.

Your goals seem to be insane.... how can a 350whp/1200kg car be a everyday car.. that's a horsepower monster.

[yuli8466]

Originally Posted by KAB-FRS

mine is 750hp by next year, we will see if we can meet that goal

how could it be without swapping engine.

[Turbowned]

I want around 300bhp, or just over a 10:1 power to weight ratio. That will cure the "it doesn't make enough power" blues. without going overboard. My weapon of choice will be a supercharger. If companies are able to get 350bhp+ from an S2000, I don't think it too lofty to want an extra 80bhp from forced induction and other supporting mods without cracking open the motor. We'll have to wait and see what the aftermarket brews up! If it means changing out internals, I'll wait 'til I'm out of warranty and the car is near being paid off.

I'll have to decide between boosting my MR2 or the BRZ; I think I can only afford one. I'll probably throw cams and standalone in the MR2 and be happy with ~165whp and 2200lbs

[yuli8466]

Originally Posted by Turbowned

I want around 300bhp, or just over a 10:1 power to weight ratio. That will cure the "it doesn't make enough power" blues. without going overboard. My weapon of choice will be a supercharger.

HKS supercharge kit seems to be 250bhp currently

[yuli8466]

Originally Posted by Mr 286

My goal is +0 HP. I just want to keep the car as clean and stock as possible for as long as I have it. For aesthetics, I might add some of the dealer approved intake/exhaust parts if they provide a more rich engine sound (nothing too loud or obnoxious). I can't help feeling that I'd just ruin this car if I equip it with a turbocharger, mess with the tune, or build the motor etc

Maybe I'll wait to see what higher performance versions they produce over the years. I honestly wish I had two of these cars. This one to keep stock, and the other to make a project out of. I guess that's what my MR2 is for, heh.

yes, stock is good enough. If you want to keep the car a very long time, just keep it in stock.