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Old 03-29-2017, 08:32 PM   #71
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I just let it squirt brake fluid into a microfiber towel like any growing boy is used to.

Any pointers?
Haha... nice. Maybe a dirty sock.

There are different opinions on whether it's better to open the bleed valve and press, or press and open the bleed valve.

I prefer pressing, waiting for a few seconds to let any bubbles rise to the top, and then cycling the bleed valve.

On level ground, if the bleed valve is opened the fluid will seep on its own.

You will hear the bubbles more than see them. If you heard/felt any crackling sound, that was air. You would've felt that right away. Opening the valve slowly helps make it more obvious.
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:50 PM   #72
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Haha... nice. Maybe a dirty sock.

There are different opinions on whether it's better to open the bleed valve and press, or press and open the bleed valve.

I prefer pressing, waiting for a few seconds to let any bubbles rise to the top, and then cycling the bleed valve.

On level ground, if the bleed valve is opened the fluid will seep on its own.

You will hear the bubbles more than see them. If you heard/felt any crackling sound, that was air. You would've felt that right away. Opening the valve slowly helps make it more obvious.
I wanna say that I heard some crackling, but the valve was getting open pretty quickly, so the fluid was getting shot out pretty fast.

I'll try cracking it more slowly tomorrow after waiting a few seconds while the clutch is on the floor and pay more attention to the sounds and feel of the cylinder.

I presume I bleed until I can't hear crackling anymore?

I'll also double check my fittings and things, but if those were "sucken air" I'd think my clutch would be totally non-functional and filled with air.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:57 PM   #73
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Bad news guys and gals.

Bleeding the system didn't work.

Any pointers?
Well, I used to submerge the end of the bleeder hose in a jar half full of clutch/brake fluid.

That way, you can see any bubbles that come through. Also, it will prevent any chance of air entering the system due to back syphon.

You might try that method.......


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Old 03-29-2017, 09:58 PM   #74
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I wanna say that I heard some crackling, but the valve was getting open pretty quickly, so the fluid was getting shot out pretty fast.

I'll try cracking it more slowly tomorrow after waiting a few seconds while the clutch is on the floor and pay more attention to the sounds and feel of the cylinder.

I presume I bleed until I can't hear crackling anymore?

I'll also double check my fittings and things, but if those were "sucken air" I'd think my clutch would be totally non-functional and filled with air.
You'd have to try pretty hard to fuck up.
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:53 AM   #75
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Well, I used to submerge the end of the bleeder hose in a jar half full of clutch/brake fluid.

That way, you can see any bubbles that come through. Also, it will prevent any chance of air entering the system due to back syphon.

You might try that method.......


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I did originally start with a jar and some fluid, but keeping the hose on the nipple just wasn't working out. JUST slightly too loose. Also that nipple in like WAY too short for anything to stay on it.

I'll see what I can do though.

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You'd have to try pretty hard to fuck up.
Probably, but you shouldn't underestimate my stupidity.
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Old 03-31-2017, 09:55 PM   #76
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Another quick update.

I re-bled the system again taking care this time to listen and feel the cylinder housing.

I waited a few seconds after the pedal was pressed and held before cracking each time.

I don't think there's air in the system, and the problem still persists.

I do have a weird buzz noise that MIGHT be related, but I'm not entirely sure.

It's either the pedal, or something else clutch related, and it appears when the pedal goes limp. It also seems somewhat cyclical, but not with a frequency that'd make me think it's part of the rotating assembly or that something is caught/rubbing in the bell housing.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LHPcWfsrTE"]Clutch Buzz[/ame]

Thoughts?
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:33 PM   #77
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Another quick update.

Thoughts?
Oh, I hate to see you start throwing parts at the problem ....... however, you may consider a new clutch master cylinder.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2910634...&ul_noapp=true


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Old 03-31-2017, 10:59 PM   #78
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Oh, I hate to see you start throwing parts at the problem ....... however, you may consider a new clutch master cylinder.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2910634...&ul_noapp=true


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Not the slave first, or are we just gonna go piece by piece?
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:20 PM   #79
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I fear the worst. I bet if you idle it nose high on a really steep incline you'll have the same feel in the clutch.
If not then go with @humfrz.
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:54 PM   #80
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I fear the worst. I bet if you idle it nose high on a really steep incline you'll have the same feel in the clutch.
If not then go with @humfrz.
"Don't you put that evil on me, Ricky Bobby!"

Wouldn't I be having other issues if I were taking my crank for a stroll?
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Old 04-01-2017, 12:03 AM   #81
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"Don't you put that evil on me, Ricky Bobby!"

Wouldn't I be having other issues if I were taking my crank for a stroll?
You will when the crank position encoder comes into contact with the pickup.

I want to be wrong. I really do. I'm not 100% sure the uphill thing is an effective test but I spent a good hour trying to come up with an easy place to measure. It's pretty challenging.
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Old 04-01-2017, 01:20 AM   #82
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Not the slave first, or are we just gonna go piece by piece?
Well, yes, I'd replace the master cylinder first.

Why?

Because the slave cylinder just does what the master tells it to do.

Your foot tells the master what to do ....... so, you're feeling this mushy/soft feeling at high rpms, in your foot ....... so, it would be more likely be a malfunctioning master cylinder.

( ya'll have fun with that line of reasoning)

I'm running low on theories as to what is going on here ....


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Old 04-01-2017, 03:03 PM   #83
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I fear the worst. I bet if you idle it nose high on a really steep incline you'll have the same feel in the clutch.
If not then go with @humfrz.
I got lost in the commotion again. Correction: If not then go back to the pressure plate.

It's not the master cylinder. If it was it would have nothing to do with engine RPM.
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Old 04-01-2017, 03:52 PM   #84
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I got lost in the commotion again. Correction: If not then go back to the pressure plate.

It's not the master cylinder. If it was it would have nothing to do with engine RPM.
Well now, my "guess" is cheaper and easier to do than your "guess" .....


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