What oil will you use?

[NESW20]

Originally Posted by Dixie Normous

Again this will be unnecessary on a stock motor

+1

Originally Posted by xantonin

I don't think filtration at 2 microns could hurt anyone. (Although I admit it may be excessive)

Also, for the record, the Camry's recommended oil change interval is 10,000 miles from Toyota, so I don't think 15,000 is that unrealistic. Although Amsoil warranties their oil to 25,000 with some of their filters. I could care less. I'd rather use an oil that is being backed by and guaranteed for longer and change it at shorter intervals than anything else.

however, that interval is the "normal" service schedule. the "extreme" schedule is much closer to real-world driving conditions, and if i'm not mistaken is 7500 miles. toyota also seemed to think the service life for the transmission fluid in my truck (the WS "world service" or whatever name they gave it) is 100K miles. mine was changed at 15K miles when they replaced my valve body, and it needed it again BADLY at 45K miles. 100K miles would be under perfect conditions, which don't exist outside of a lab at JPL or something.

[xantonin]

Originally Posted by NESW20

i don't think you, personally, are stupid. no. i don't think what you mentioned is necessary, but i am all for preventative maintenance. i changed all oils (aside from transmission fluid) in my truck after 1000 miles, and then again at 3000 miles. 128K miles on it now, and runs like a top. no leaks, noises, or other problems. i just used normal oil, valvoline or mobil1, whatever they had in the parts store at the time that met all API guidelines and was the proper weight according to the owner's manual.

i *DO* think it's stupid when people don't change their oil for 15K miles, regardless of whatever marketing hype they believe. i am glad that you will change it closer to OEM intervals. it's not the lubricity that breaks down first, it's the detergents and other additives that are long gone by the time you hit 5K miles. normal, off the shelf oil will lubricate just fine up to 10K miles or more, not that i would recommend it, but it won't clean or protect for that long.

Understandable.

Your example doesn't apply though. Most vehicles can make it to the 150,000 range unless neglected. The question lies beyond that. Most people, however, don't care as they won't keep their vehicle that long.

And yes, you're right the lubricity may not break down first, but those additives are meant to make it last longer. Once they are depleted the lubricity fails. Typically the TBN is mostly used to measure oil life.

[Giccin]

Voted Other.. Toyota Mechanics do my car. I just pay the extra for synthetic.

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by NESW20

i don't think it would be a bad idea to change the diff oil after a couple thousand miles. on my FT, i'll probably change the diff oil and engine oil at 1000 miles, and maybe do the trans at 10K.

the only thing i might consider doing as far as startup is concerned is bypassing the clutch-start switch so i can start the car without holding the clutch to the floor, shoving the crank against the thrust bearings. it's not a huge deal, though, as there are countless cars with multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on them that were started with the clutch to the floor.

I fail at clarity. Engines have almost no metal-to-metal contact because of the hydrodynamic nature of the oil and bearings.

Diffs and transmissions have tons.

[NESW20]

right. i guess i could add that it doesn't leak out of anywhere, doesn't burn any oil, etc... i replaced my PCV valve at 100K miles, not because it was bad, but because it was $5 of easy preventative maintenance. i'm planning on keeping my truck WELL into 200K+ miles.

my professional experience has proven to me that a lot of how a vehicle lasts is engineering from the manufacturer, but the rest really is how it's taken care of. certain vehicles develop serious leaks within 30K miles. nothing the owner did wrong, just poor engineering. on the same note, i've seen many, many vehicles with half the miles on my truck that leak oil out of numerous places and need serious repairs, mostly due to neglect.

[xantonin]

Originally Posted by NESW20

right. i guess i could add that it doesn't leak out of anywhere, doesn't burn any oil, etc... i replaced my PCV valve at 100K miles, not because it was bad, but because it was $5 of easy preventative maintenance. i'm planning on keeping my truck WELL into 200K+ miles.

my professional experience has proven to me that a lot of how a vehicle lasts is engineering from the manufacturer, but the rest really is how it's taken care of. certain vehicles develop serious leaks within 30K miles. nothing the owner did wrong, just poor engineering. on the same note, i've seen many, many vehicles with half the miles on my truck that leak oil out of numerous places and need serious repairs, mostly due to neglect.

I agree. My last note I want to make though is to repeat what I mentioned earlier. I have my oil tested often. Not to save money, obviously since the testing costs about $20, but because I'm one of those people that wants to know as much as I can about the health of my car.

It's interesting what you learn.

I've learned that a lot of cars have fuel dilution problems (mine is slight). So no filter, no oil, can extend the life of oil that is diluted with gasoline.

[BALLIN'_707]

Redline All Day...

[Zaku]

Hmm I've never gone wrong with Mobil 1, or Castro gonna stick to those. Thought If I get the FT86 it will be my first Toyota so I'll stick to recommendations I see here

[BootpTraphik]

I guess this depends on the tech used in the sleeves, but I have been under the impression that you should not use synthetic in a brand new motor and instead run regular old 100% pure dinosaur oil for the first couple 100 km/miles. Reason being that the synthetic lubricates so well that it doesn't allow the piston rings to fully seat to the cylinder walls, thus allowing the possibility of inadequate piston-to-wall contact. But maybe engine break in procedures are all myths, who knows...

Back OT, if I got an FT I would probably run Mobil 1, but who knows since I only use OEM synthetic now in my car, then again I have only had 2 oil changes on my current car, OEM synthetic being the latest one.

I wonder where Toyota or Hyundai (in my case) get their OEM oils from...

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by BootpTraphik

I guess this depends on the tech used in the sleeves, but I have been under the impression that you should not use synthetic in a brand new motor and instead run regular old 100% pure dinosaur oil for the first couple 100 km/miles. Reason being that the synthetic lubricates so well that it doesn't allow the piston rings to fully seat to the cylinder walls, thus allowing the possibility of inadequate piston-to-wall contact. But maybe engine break in procedures are all myths, who knows...

Back OT, if I got an FT I would probably run Mobil 1, but who knows since I only use OEM synthetic now in my car, then again I have only had 2 oil changes on my current car, OEM synthetic being the latest one.

I wonder where Toyota or Hyundai (in my case) get their OEM oils from...

My understanding is the ring seating is real, and there are actually some people with pretty specific procedures for it, that vary by the hone pattern (on rebuilt motors anyways).

The rest of the motor's components basically 'float' on the oil so there is no metal-to-metal contact, except momentarily on start up. That's where an accumulator can help.

[Midship Runabout]

Originally Posted by BootpTraphik

I wonder where Toyota or Hyundai (in my case) get their OEM oils from...

It may very by dealership. At the chevy I work for we use redline synthetic... just ask your service writer.

[NESW20]

the way i've seated rings on every engine i've rebuilt has been doing WOT runs in 3rd gear, then snap the throttle shut and engine brake. repeat 10-12 times. change oil. done.

none of them consume any oil or anything.

[S2KtoFT86]

Surprised Amsoil isn't listed.

[Midship Runabout]

^ oh hi are you new?