CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by BDKane01

Awesome! Thanks for the response. I will look into that. I believe that having the ability to adjust dampers would be ideal for me. I drive my BRZ on a military base and the roads can wildly vary depending on where I am.

Could you give me some advice on how to gain more knowledge of suspension and the components as a consumer? I don't think I would need to spend as much time on things as an engineer. However, I do want to learn enough that I know exactly what I am looking for as a consumer.

Couple of good threads here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81062

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45542

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88327

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67345

- Andrew

[brzaapi]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

The Yellows.

- Andrew

Dumb question maybe, but I don't want to assume anything. Is there any reason why the Yellow springs you all offer will not install onto the PP Sachs dampened Struts? Can I just order the available RCE Yellow Starter Kit Lite and be good to go?

Thank you

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by brzaapi

Dumb question maybe, but I don't want to assume anything. Is there any reason why the Yellow springs you all offer will not install onto the PP Sachs dampened Struts? Can I just order the available RCE Yellow Starter Kit Lite and be good to go?

Thank you

No worries...yes the RCE Yellows are a good fit for the PP Sachs dampers.

Just a note though, I would only get the Starter kit lite if you have a very good shop doing the install. The rear camber bushings are a PAIN to install and many shops have screwed it up or take a very long time ($$$) to do it. The alignment process is also more difficult.

The "Cambo" package is a little more money up front, but the rear LCAs are super easy (and cheaper) to install and align. In general I recommend that package instead.

- Andrew

[brzaapi]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

No worries...yes the RCE Yellows are a good fit for the PP Sachs dampers.

Just a note though, I would only get the Starter kit lite if you have a very good shop doing the install. The rear camber bushings are a PAIN to install and many shops have screwed it up or take a very long time ($$$) to do it. The alignment process is also more difficult.

The "Cambo" package is a little more money up front, but the rear LCAs are super easy (and cheaper) to install and align. In general I recommend that package instead.

- Andrew

Good to know. Yeah I had SPL LCAs on my last BRZ, I was amazed at how easy they went on. I expected a struggle, but not at all.

[jmark]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

No worries...yes the RCE Yellows are a good fit for the PP Sachs dampers.

Just a note though, I would only get the Starter kit lite if you have a very good shop doing the install. The rear camber bushings are a PAIN to install and many shops have screwed it up or take a very long time ($$$) to do it. The alignment process is also more difficult.

The "Cambo" package is a little more money up front, but the rear LCAs are super easy (and cheaper) to install and align. In general I recommend that package instead.

- Andrew

Are the RCE Yellow springs linear or progressive? How do their rates compare to the stock 2017 PP springs?

[Lilswitche]

Considering getting some Yellows after I get the new tires/wheels squared away. Planning to do the install myself. Should I wait a week or so to let the springs settle before rushing off for an alignment?

[Bokusārēsā]

I will apologize for the noob question, but this is my first car where fitting coilovers may require replacing one of the control arms. Previous coilover equipped cars owned were a '04 BMW M3 and a '94 Mazda Miata, both of which didn't require changing anything other than endlinks when an aftermarket sway bar was fitted. My concern is of course on how necessary fitting an aftermarket adjustable lower control arm is to the rear of the FR-S/BRZ/86? The goal is to lower the car within 1"-1.4" as recommended by TEIN for the Mono Sport. Due to the weather here in NY the installation is not time-sensitive, but I am curious as to how much negative camber my car might produce from the height range specified come time to align. If the camber normally seen without an adjustable rear lower control arm is excessive than I would like to know. Thank you in advance to whomever can assist me with my concern. I am not into the stance/hellaflush life and when possible try to prolong my tire life. Nothing sucks more than cording inner tires only about an inch or so into the tread while the rest is still practically new.

[peaches]

Originally Posted by Bokusārēsā

I will apologize for the noob question, but this is my first car where fitting coilovers may require replacing one of the control arms. Previous coilover equipped cars owned were a '04 BMW M3 and a '94 Mazda Miata, both of which didn't require changing anything other than endlinks when an aftermarket sway bar was fitted. My concern is of course on how necessary fitting an aftermarket adjustable lower control arm is to the rear of the FR-S/BRZ/86? The goal is to lower the car within 1"-1.4" as recommended by TEIN for the Mono Sport. Due to the weather here in NY the installation is not time-sensitive, but I am curious as to how much negative camber my car might produce from the height range specified come time to align. If the camber normally seen without an adjustable rear lower control arm is excessive than I would like to know. Thank you in advance to whomever can assist me with my concern. I am not into the stance/hellaflush life and when possible try to prolong my tire life. Nothing sucks more than cording inner tires only about an inch or so into the tread while the rest is still practically new.

If the car is going to be driven on the street, do not lower it more than 1", it is absolutely pointless to go lower than that unless it's a dedicated track car. Even then putting it on a trailer might be complicated. I dropped mine 1 1/4" and it barely clears a u-haul trailer, have had a couple of scrapes on the road.

The control arms are not absolutely required, but know that you won't have complete control over camber and toe. I suggest replacing control and toe arms with the SPC kit, gets the job done. Anything else is just for show.

[Bokusārēsā]

Thank you for your feedback. In that case I will keep it at or above an inch until I can order and fit the camber and toe arms.

[churchx]

If lowering more then inch, then one should add also roll centre correction bits, diff riser and probably also coilovers and one should be ready for reduced daily driving practicality/compliance/comfort (as to compensate big drops of not that high to begin with stock shock bumpless travel one should up spring rates). Indeed, better not.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Lilswitche

Considering getting some Yellows after I get the new tires/wheels squared away. Planning to do the install myself. Should I wait a week or so to let the springs settle before rushing off for an alignment?

It's good to get 20 or so miles on them, but no need to wait a week.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by jmark

Are the RCE Yellow springs linear or progressive? How do their rates compare to the stock 2017 PP springs?

They are "mostly linear". There is a small progression. Most of the handling portion of the spring is linear.

I don't know the exact rates of the 2017 PP springs but I know they are closer to even front/rear than before.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Bokusārēsā

I will apologize for the noob question, but this is my first car where fitting coilovers may require replacing one of the control arms. Previous coilover equipped cars owned were a '04 BMW M3 and a '94 Mazda Miata, both of which didn't require changing anything other than endlinks when an aftermarket sway bar was fitted. My concern is of course on how necessary fitting an aftermarket adjustable lower control arm is to the rear of the FR-S/BRZ/86? The goal is to lower the car within 1"-1.4" as recommended by TEIN for the Mono Sport. Due to the weather here in NY the installation is not time-sensitive, but I am curious as to how much negative camber my car might produce from the height range specified come time to align. If the camber normally seen without an adjustable rear lower control arm is excessive than I would like to know. Thank you in advance to whomever can assist me with my concern. I am not into the stance/hellaflush life and when possible try to prolong my tire life. Nothing sucks more than cording inner tires only about an inch or so into the tread while the rest is still practically new.

Nice to have rear LCAs. I'm anal about alignment, so it's definitely on my list. Not a 100% requirement though.

Agreed with keeping the drop around 1 inch and at that height you can get away with skipping the rear LCAs but it might be uneven.

- Andrew

[Insurme1]

Guys I have a question regarding springs. I'm currently running KW V3's with the 200lbs springs that came on them. I'm now looking for more stiffness and flatter in the turns. Running -3.0/-2.0 camber. Do you have any experience going to a heavier spring with KW's? If so can either of you help me out on recommendation and/or sell me some? Car is for HPDE only. Thanks!