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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.

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View Poll Results: What oil
Mobil 1 113 41.70%
Castrol Syntec 38 14.02%
Valvoline Synpower 6 2.21%
Quaker state/ Q horsepower 5 1.85%
Penzoil Platinum 17 6.27%
Royal purple 28 10.33%
Eneos 5 1.85%
TRD oil (dont know if still available) 6 2.21%
Castrol "think with your dipstick jimmy" Edge 10 3.69%
..... motorcraft?....... 2 0.74%
Other. please specify 60 22.14%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 271. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-19-2010, 07:05 PM   #71
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72 posts on oil and we don't even know much about the engine yet? :|

Dino juice every 3,000 miles will keep it running forever, if Toyota engineers are involved in any way. I run Mobil1 in my Toyota engines, but it's not really making a difference. I see tons of Toyotas with 100-200,000 miles on them that just come into the dealership for regular 5,000 mile oil changes and you couldn't ask any more from these engines..

They're just fine on regular ol' oil
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Old 09-21-2010, 01:15 AM   #72
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72 posts on oil and we don't even know much about the engine yet? :|

Dino juice every 3,000 miles will keep it running forever, if Toyota engineers are involved in any way. I run Mobil1 in my Toyota engines, but it's not really making a difference. I see tons of Toyotas with 100-200,000 miles on them that just come into the dealership for regular 5,000 mile oil changes and you couldn't ask any more from these engines..

They're just fine on regular ol' oil
this. my tacoma has 119,300 miles on it now. nothing but regular GTX or toyota (when i'm feeling lazy and i have them change it) oil every 3,000-4,000 miles and it's running like a champ.
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Old 10-09-2010, 12:39 PM   #73
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I'll use what Toyota says in the manual. Surely Castrol...
I think that they would know better than me what's best for the engine.
In addition, I think, as miss Lauren said, standard is better
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Old 11-09-2010, 04:18 PM   #74
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Castol GTX 5w30 conventional oil.
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Old 02-23-2011, 02:52 AM   #75
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Shell Rotella 5W40

A lot of the STI guys on forums have had long discussions about this. Most tend to steer clear of Mobil1 5W30 Synthetic since it tends to sheer down to lighter weight faster than most other synthetics. Yes, the STI has a turbocharged EJ and we're getting a (most probably) NA FB series, but might as well keep it consistent with the Boxer.

(Note: I am NOT saying that Mobil1 synthetics are bad oils. In fact, many M1 oils like EP and HM are great, but 5W30 specifically seems to sheer in STIs.)
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:56 PM   #76
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I won't buy the car unless the dealer agrees to change all the fluids to Amsoil before it's driven off the lot.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:11 AM   #77
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and let me guess, then you'll go ahead and buy into the "oh, my amsoil is good for 15K miles without changing it! hooray!"
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:27 AM   #78
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and let me guess, then you'll go ahead and buy into the "oh, my amsoil is good for 15K miles without changing it! hooray!"
No, because a new vehicle has more wear metals from the factory since it's never been broken into before.

Do you think I'm stupid or something?

On a side note, I do extend the oil changes on my current vehicle, and I also send in a sample of oil to be tested at OEM intervals.

I'd also install a bypass filter on this new car.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:31 AM   #79
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No, because a new vehicle has more wear metals from the factory since it's never been broken into before.

Do you think I'm stupid or something?

On a side note, I do extend the oil changes on my current vehicle, and I also send in a sample of oil to be tested at OEM intervals.

I'd also install a bypass filter on this new car.
Break-in wear is a bit of a myth. Properly working cars don't really have any metal-to-metal contact when they're running. Expect the rings.

Better for longevity is installing an accumulator and pressurizing your oiling system before turning the motor over.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:33 AM   #80
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I'd also install a bypass filter on this new car.
I believe that will be unnecessary
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:36 AM   #81
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i don't think you, personally, are stupid. no. i don't think what you mentioned is necessary, but i am all for preventative maintenance. i changed all oils (aside from transmission fluid) in my truck after 1000 miles, and then again at 3000 miles. 128K miles on it now, and runs like a top. no leaks, noises, or other problems. i just used normal oil, valvoline or mobil1, whatever they had in the parts store at the time that met all API guidelines and was the proper weight according to the owner's manual.

i *DO* think it's stupid when people don't change their oil for 15K miles, regardless of whatever marketing hype they believe. i am glad that you will change it closer to OEM intervals. it's not the lubricity that breaks down first, it's the detergents and other additives that are long gone by the time you hit 5K miles. normal, off the shelf oil will lubricate just fine up to 10K miles or more, not that i would recommend it, but it won't clean or protect for that long.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:37 AM   #82
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Better for longevity is installing an accumulator and pressurizing your oiling system before turning the motor over.
Again this will be unnecessary on a stock motor
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:39 AM   #83
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I believe that will be unnecessary
I don't think filtration at 2 microns could hurt anyone. (Although I admit it may be excessive)

Also, for the record, the Camry's recommended oil change interval is 10,000 miles from Toyota, so I don't think 15,000 is that unrealistic. Although Amsoil warranties their oil to 25,000 with some of their filters. I could care less. I'd rather use an oil that is being backed by and guaranteed for longer and change it at shorter intervals than anything else.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:41 AM   #84
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Quote:
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Break-in wear is a bit of a myth. Properly working cars don't really have any metal-to-metal contact when they're running. Expect the rings.

Better for longevity is installing an accumulator and pressurizing your oiling system before turning the motor over.
i don't think it would be a bad idea to change the diff oil after a couple thousand miles. on my FT, i'll probably change the diff oil and engine oil at 1000 miles, and maybe do the trans at 10K.

the only thing i might consider doing as far as startup is concerned is bypassing the clutch-start switch so i can start the car without holding the clutch to the floor, shoving the crank against the thrust bearings. it's not a huge deal, though, as there are countless cars with multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on them that were started with the clutch to the floor.
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