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Old 12-04-2016, 05:24 AM   #29
slade17
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Originally Posted by Tcoat View Post
Just a second let me take a look at your diff. HMMMMM ya it looks pretty bad.
Yeah, maybe I sound stupid. But here's why I'm asking:

- I'm assuming appraiser dude is biased. If he writes off every last thing that *could* be damaged, no one second-guesses him. But if he says the insurance company should repair the car, then they end up paying more to fix it than the car is worth, he looks bad to his boss. So if there's a 10% chance the diff is damaged, he'll still write it off.

- I'm assuming some people on this forum know the car design pretty well, and can say something either like "the diff is pretty robust and isolated from the wheel, so looking at that pic I'm sure it's fine" or conversely "that shock that bent the wheel likely trashed the diff also. Walk away from the car. Reamer, you should make sure your insurance didn't miss that too, you don't want to get screwed if it gives you trouble 3k miles from now".

I've gotten some good feedback that's useful on the frame and airbags, but the diff makes a ~$8k delta in the quote, so it's on my mind.


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Not even sure why you are worried about it if the car is totaled. Are you actually considering just keeping and fixing it? You know the insurance company won't just give you money to fix it if written off right? The accident is now in their records so they will probably not even insure it again anyway.
Insurance will pay out the full value of the car, and I can buy it back from them and fix it if I want. If they've been very conservative in estimating the damage, that may be worth it. Good point on insuring it after though.
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Old 12-04-2016, 05:31 AM   #30
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No idea why yours needs a new diff, but there's no guarantee that mine doesn't. $9k is just the estimate so far but when they get everything repaired that they know about and when I get to drive it again we may find out that it needs a new diff. What a shame an excuse to get a 4.77 FD would be (it is an AT). Your car has some additional body work (possible indicator of more deeper issues) than mine as well. My right rear quarter panel is the only part that needs repaired, whereas your door, fender, and front bumper also need to be repaired/replaced.

@Tcoat 's statement about damage being different than appearance is accurate.

How much do you still owe on the car? Or was it paid off? We're assuming you have $22k to play with, but the bank will get paid first.

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Thanks Reamer, definitely similar impacts, different situations, but I'm interested to see how both play out-- good luck, let us know what comes up!

I paid for my car up front. I fortunately don't really have a budget I need to keep within for a new car, it's more a matter of if it's worth the money.
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:40 PM   #31
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If the insurance wants to total it, total it, pay the small difference and walk away. You't don't want a car with some bent axels and krap
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:44 PM   #32
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Old 12-06-2016, 04:55 PM   #33
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If you are not keeping the car forever then take the money.
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:01 PM   #34
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LOL I was gonna do that and figured not enough would understand the humour.
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:24 PM   #35
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I went and saw the car, talked to the mechanic (wouldn't tell me a thing on the phone). He said the differential is scraped on the bottom but likely works fine, insurance is just overly cautious. He estimated $6k to get the car back on the road minimum.

Talking to insurance, they'll sell me the car for $3k. I'll probably walk away, but it almost seems too good to pass up if someone wants to turn it into a track car.
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:37 PM   #36
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I went and saw the car, talked to the mechanic (wouldn't tell me a thing on the phone). He said the differential is scraped on the bottom but likely works fine, insurance is just overly cautious. He estimated $6k to get the car back on the road minimum.

Talking to insurance, they'll sell me the car for $3k. I'll probably walk away, but it almost seems too good to pass up if someone wants to turn it into a track car.


Wow 3K, shoot someone should jump on it as long as you have the resources and connections 3.5 to 4K all in to restore an BRZ is a steal.


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Old 12-09-2016, 02:47 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by slade17 View Post
I went and saw the car, talked to the mechanic (wouldn't tell me a thing on the phone). He said the differential is scraped on the bottom but likely works fine, insurance is just overly cautious. He estimated $6k to get the car back on the road minimum.

Talking to insurance, they'll sell me the car for $3k. I'll probably walk away, but it almost seems too good to pass up if someone wants to turn it into a track car.
For $3K I would buy it back it just for parts. Insurance has to be cautious since they could lose their shirt by making the wrong call.

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Wow 3K, shoot someone should jump on it as long as you have the resources and connections 3.5 to 4K all in to restore an BRZ is a steal.


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That would be his price not the general public. They will auction it off. Could go for that or much more (or less I guess since it is an auction). Oh, and who knows how much the repair would cost in the end. Could be $10K for all we know.
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:06 PM   #38
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totaled BRZ - what to do

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For $3K I would buy it back it just for parts. Insurance has to be cautious since they could lose their shirt by making the wrong call.




That would be his price not the general public. They will auction it off. Could go for that or much more (or less I guess since it is an auction). Oh, and who knows how much the repair would cost in the end. Could be $10K for all we know.


Insurance will likely get 4 to 5K given the demand for it. Your right 10K grand total sounds about right. The side airbags, seat belts, drivers airbag are the big $$$$ repair killers.


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