Front camber? Noob

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

majority of the time on a tech forum an op is stressed out and in a bind about something that theyre stuck on. Coming on here just to be a nag and try to give attitude adjustments is ridiculous. Not the place man. Straight answers.

Comprehensive answers were given on page one of this thread.

There's nothing new being added because there's nothing more to add with the exception of answering Ultras questions.

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by Boomerang

What's your new user name bro?

Tcoats.crush


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[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Comprehensive answers were given on page one of this thread.



There's nothing new being added because there's nothing more to add with the exception of answering Ultras questions.

On front camber, yes. But as to why my rear is 1.5 degrees apart after lowering springs, no.


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[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Depending on the offset on your wheels, you might need camber plates to get near -2*. I've got -2.3* front with camber bolts and slotted struts on 17x8 +45 and 225/45/17's, and have barely any clearance between tire and spring perch.

What cambrr plates do you recomend


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[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

When i say shock i nean the entire strut assembly.

Are you saying the whole strut and spring have nothing to do with alignment? As they most certainly do.


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On the front suspension, yes. On the rear suspension, 100% no.

If you take the strut out of the front suspension the knuckle is left wobbling around on the LCA. Macpherson struts aren't just shocks, they're integral to the geometry.

If you take the shock out of the rear the knuckle is still perfectly located by the LCA, UCA and trailing arm. On a double wishbone or multilink setup the shock is just a shock and doesn't control geometry at all.

If you're sick of people getting pissy with you, take a look at the tone of your posts. You don't sound like you're trying to learn, you sound like you're telling people that are trying to help you that they're wrong.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

What cambrr plates do you recomend


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Is the car your daily driver? Does it get driven year round? What's your budget? How much camber do you want up front?

IMO, don't get camber plates. By the sound of the rest of your posts, you're going to get frustrated by them making noise (that's what happens when you replace bushings with bearings in the suspension).

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Like when i disagree with advice i genuinely want to be proven wrong. So then i understand. If you cant explain your own advice why should i recieve it as truth

I explained myself clearly enough for others to see and agree with my approach. I do this all day long with hundreds of engineers and designers. I'm not about to give in to petulance on my own free time. Maybe someone else will hand you a fish. I'm here to teach you how.

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by wparsons

On the front suspension, yes. On the rear suspension, 100% no.

If you take the strut out of the front suspension the knuckle is left wobbling around on the LCA. Macpherson struts aren't just shocks, they're integral to the geometry.

If you take the shock out of the rear the knuckle is still perfectly located by the LCA, UCA and trailing arm. On a double wishbone or multilink setup the shock is just a shock and doesn't control geometry at all.

If you're sick of people getting pissy with you, take a look at the tone of your posts. You don't sound like you're trying to learn, you sound like you're telling people that are trying to help you that they're wrong.

Could a bend in a rear strut not push force down on the lca though?


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[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Could a bend in a rear strut not push force down on the lca though?


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The rear shock/spring always pushes down on the LCA, bent or not. Pushing down on the LCA won't change the geometry at all.

Here's what the rear suspension looks like. Notice the shock isn't connected to the knuckle at all, meaning there's no way it can affect camber from being bent.

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Is the car your daily driver? Does it get driven year round? What's your budget? How much camber do you want up front?

IMO, don't get camber plates. By the sound of the rest of your posts, you're going to get frustrated by them making noise (that's what happens when you replace bushings with bearings in the suspension).

Daily driver yes. Aggresive canyon roads or track on weekends. I enjoy getting the back end out around corners.

I bought trd lowering springs as i was assured my geometry would stay the same and i wouldnt have to do anything to adjust camber in rear. Now im told by previous trd installers that they thru their camber out somehow. And NNNOW im told Rear struts dont change camber. Haha. So whatever i guess.

I dont know what to do. Id like my rear camber at around -2 on both sides. And its at -.9 and -2.6. I didnt think id have to lcas. Id like my front to be -2 atleast and its at -.7 i believe. But i dont wanna spend any more than 2-300$ max. I might just put the old coils back on and drive around like a 4x4.


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[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by wparsons

The rear shock/spring always pushes down on the LCA, bent or not. Pushing down on the LCA won't change the geometry at all.

Here's what the rear suspension looks like. Notice the shock isn't connected to the knuckle at all, meaning there's no way it can affect camber from being bent.

But its connected to the lca which is connected to the knuckle? And you nver answers as to why lowering a car throws camber out. That has solely to do with spring and strut.

So youre saying if i dropped or lifted my car 6" its camber would stay the same? Really..?

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[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

But its connected to the lca which is connected to the knuckle? And you nver answers as to why lowering a car throws camber out. That has solely to do with spring and strut.

So youre saying if i dropped or lifted my car 6" its camber would stay the same? Really..?

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Ugh, no. Have you even tried to learn/understand suspension systems work? All the answers to your questions have been answered multiple times on here.

All suspensions have camber curves, which is the rate that camber changes through compression. Lowering our cars increases rear camber more than front camber because the rear suspension gains more camber from compression (better camber curve) than the front.

A bent rear shock won't affect camber unless it's from unequal ride height. If you haven't measured the car on flat ground to see if the ride height is equal left to right, you haven't even started troubleshooting what's happening.

What's different up front is that a bent strut will directly change camber without a ride height difference since it's directly bolted to the knuckle without a pivot. That's the reason people are telling you a bent shock won't change rear camber, because it wouldn't change it without other very obvious effects. You'd be looking at roughly 3/4" difference in ride height left to right to have a difference in camber that big. Ride height affects camber, not how straight the rear shock is.

It's also highly unlikely you have a bent rear shock unless you've bent a lot of other parts in the rear suspension too.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Ugh, no.

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Ugh, no. Have you even tried to learn/understand suspension systems work? All the answers to your questions have been answered multiple times on here.

All suspensions have camber curves, which is the rate that camber changes through compression. Lowering our cars increases rear camber more than front camber because the rear suspension gains more camber from compression (better camber curve) than the front.

A bent rear shock won't affect camber unless it's from unequal ride height. If you haven't measured the car on flat ground to see if the ride height is equal left to right, you haven't even started troubleshooting what's happening.

What's different up front is that a bent strut will directly change camber without a ride height difference since it's directly bolted to the knuckle without a pivot. That's the reason people are telling you a bent shock won't change rear camber, because it wouldn't change it without other very obvious effects. You'd be looking at roughly 3/4" difference in ride height left to right to have a difference in camber that big. Ride height affects camber, not how straight the rear shock is.

It's also highly unlikely you have a bent rear shock unless you've bent a lot of other parts in the rear suspension too.

I understand the differences between the fromt and rear struts. I was holding them in my hand yesterday. I could see how a bent fromt strut would comprismise more than just camber up front.

But lowering my car excentuated the camber variance in my back end? This is what i first said when i first mentioned it. I understand that.

Also how am i to measure ride height when one tire is angled way in and the other is almost flat. Its decieving..? Kinda hard to measure ride height unless both tires are square.


And you dont need to uhg no me. Im repeating whay you are saying. That strut and spring have "nothing to do with camber" but putting a smaller spring in effects camber? So youre telling me two things man. Dont get mad at me

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