Front camber? Noob

[Norinradd]

I understand the physics of adjusting front camber negatively to increase turn in response and reduce understeer. Which is something im definitley interested in. Plus id like my front tires to be tucked in a bit.

Hopefully this can be answered simply.

17x8.25. 245/40. Trd 1"drop coils.

Daily, tracked, and aggresive canyon backroad driven.

I dont want anything extreme. I plan on leaving rear alone.

Just how much neg camber should i ask alignment tech to adjust to. And do i need to buy bolts? Like whitelines? Or can it be done with stock components.

Ive been told -3 is the sweet spot. Is that possible with just stock. Of do i need like whiteline bolts. They say only 1.5 degree of +\-

Thanks again everyone who helps out!!


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[strat61caster]

There is no camber adjustment stock, you must buy parts to get it.

-3 will accelerate wear on the inner shoulder if the car is driven daily.
Depending on the purpose a more modest angle will likely be adequate.

There's a couple very informative threads out there about the details.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25001
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103609

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

There is no camber adjustment stock, you must buy parts to get it.

-3 will accelerate wear on the inner shoulder if the car is driven daily.
Depending on the purpose a more modest angle will likely be adequate.

There's a couple very informative threads out there about the details.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25001
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103609

Thanks!


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[tyler_win_photo]

Yes you'll need camber bolts. Or even camber plates if you want -3. I'd suggest to keep it around -1.5 to -2 at most for a car that you'll be driving daily. Bolts will usually yield -1 degrees... -1.5 if you're lucky. You can try doubling up (one in bottom of strut and one on top) on camber bolts to get more. To reduce excessive wear, have 0 toe.

[bfrank1972]

I have -2.7 on my fronts, slotted struts, daily driven with no problems or no additional wear that I can discern - maybe when it gets close to no tread I can see it, but doubt it will be a big deal. As other have said, you won't get anywhere near -3 with a single set of camber bolts - might get there with upper and lower cam bolts.

[PeterFRS]

-3.5 f
-2.5 r
zero toe front
slight toe in rear
i have been this way for about a year and a half / some auto x and daily even through winter
i havent noticed too much "uneven" tire wear.. on my RE760

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by PeterFRS

-3.5 f
-2.5 r
zero toe front
slight toe in rear
i have been this way for about a year and a half / some auto x and daily even through winter
i havent noticed too much "uneven" tire wear.. on my RE760

I didnt realize so much was needed to go to -3. Is there even a point to getting whitelines? I didnt want to spend hundreds on camber. I dont want crazy stance or anything. So i figured -1.5 would be good? No? I need to buy a bunch of aftermarket adjustable stuff to even get into the -2s?

Ive read about people getting their oem bolt to go to -1.6!?! Then im told it is not adjustable


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[churchx]

Norinradd: just get two camberbolt sets for both upper & lower strut holes (eg. Whiteline KCA416 for top, SPC 81305 for lower). Should net you -2.1 to -2.5 camber front (or more, if lowered). Bolts are cheap, two sets won't bankrupt anyone, but if you need to save over that, get SPC only, and for top reuse OEM 14mm crash bolts relocating them from lower hole to upper. One still needs adjustable LCAs for rear though. SPC LCA cost more then those front bolts, but imho affordable enough.

[PeterFRS]

@Norinradd well I have dialed in those camber numbers in the front using the camber plates that came with the coilovers.
and for the rear those were "natural" camber resulted from the lowering of the car in the back with coilovers.
I should get LCA in the rear and dial the camber back to -0.5 ish in the back and dial back the fronts too and see how my contact patch plays out..right now with my driving style i dont think i am using the full width of my 255's

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by churchx

SPC 81305 for lower

get SPC only, and for top reuse OEM 14mm bolts relocating them from lower hole to upper.

Do this OP, if you want more, any camber plate will get you the rest of the way for $400-$600, or it will come with a set of coilovers you decide to purchase.

It's not any more complicated than that.

If you're confused about 'camber adjustment on OEM bolts' re-read the threads I linked, you must have skipped a few paragraphs or not watched Dezoris' video.

[wparsons]

Depending on the offset on your wheels, you might need camber plates to get near -2*. I've got -2.3* front with camber bolts and slotted struts on 17x8 +45 and 225/45/17's, and have barely any clearance between tire and spring perch.

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Depending on the offset on your wheels, you might need camber plates to get near -2*. I've got -2.3* front with camber bolts and slotted struts on 17x8 +45 and 225/45/17's, and have barely any clearance between tire and spring perch.

Hm im +35


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[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Hm im +35


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You're 10mm further out than I am, but also have 20mm more tire so you'll have roughly the same clearance I have.

[Norinradd]

So may i ask how the fuck my rear drivers tire is at -2.5 after the lowering springs. One rear is -2.5. The other is -.9. That seems like somethings is really messed up?!?! No!?


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