she's dead Jim. (Taking apart my engine to the crank) What would you do?

[PitViper]

Originally Posted by Spartarus

Do it. How cheap is cheap?

Regarding recommendations...

Flex: Ptuning has the best and cleanest installation. Delicious has more comprehensive instructions.

Injectors: Deatschworks are the easiest for tuners to work with. They are flow balanced and have the appropriate and sufficiently comprehensive data to calibrate out of the box.

Exhaust: Don't use any of the "name brand" Japanese exhaust components. I've seen and worked with all of them. The flanges all warp with heat cycles. They're not stress-relieved and milled flat after welding. they will leak, you will have to repair them. ACE, JDL, Ptuning are the only exhaust manufacturers for this platform that I would spend money on. That, and they do great post-purchase support if there's any problems. ACE was doing the type B to fill orders, they're caught up enough that they're making all type A now. Good news.

Radiator: Velox does a better one. Everything they make is comprehensively researched, well-supported, and the build quality is unparalleled.

Head Gaskets: Cometic. Forget the HKS Gaskets. Especially with the crappy finish on the stock heads.

Fasteners: All the ARP stuff is fine. No reported issues.

A/C delete: Raceseng makes one.

Valvetrain: Upsizing the valves will help in a supercharged Application. Ferrea F2359P Exhaust, F2358P Intake.

Bearings: Stock or King. King are untested.

Motor Mounts: Stiffer is OK, solid is a bad idea on a 4-banger. Don't do it without also stiffening the transmission mount. ForcedFab makes a good billet insert, which they will mill to accomodate the Whiteline insert. That will be as stiff as you can make the mount.

Like me, you probably watch the shifter bounce around like a wet noodle with wheel hop, and you're irritated about it.. Stiffening the transmission mount will help. Also, the arm on which the shifter is mounted is secured with rubber bushings at the front. Revo makes brass ones to replace them. It's better than stiffening the rear bushing, as the fronts keep the shifter aligned with the transmission, not the chassis. Ideally, you wouldn't need a rear bushing. https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/44420

Wow, Thank you once again for your content and help!
to follow up on stiffing, I already have a rear bushing to be installed for the transmission. But I will be looking into revo's brass bushing as well. as for motor mounts, I should rephrase to, stiffer mounts. Your details assured me as to why I shouldn't go with completely solid mounts.

for the 2jz + v161: $7000
That comes with everything to get it installed and running, ecu and all.
This will also give way to selling what I have which will help with the remaining expenses to complete the conversion.

[Ultramaroon]

Man, we're never going to get those t-shirts.

[PitViper]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Man, we're never going to get those t-shirts.

What I can do is start a pre-payment thing for it, that will cover the cost and get the shirts. So, ill get that going so we can get you all the shirts. Because shirts are awesome.

Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by PitViper

What I can do is start a pre-payment thing for it, that will cover the cost and get the shirts. So, ill get that going so we can get you all the shirts. Because shirts are awesome.

Nooo.... I was just kidding. You have way bigger fish to fry.

[weederr33]

I like this thread.

[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by PitViper

Hello everyone!
The other day I blew my motor. From the sound of it, It's a spun bearing on cylinder 4 and most likely even a blown O-ring. We just got the car to the shop last night so We're not sure of the extent of the damage at this time but we at least know we will be taking it down to the crank.

With that being said, I wanted to get a thread going to see what YOU would or wouldn't do while we are performing open heart surgery.

So let me know what parts you'd use, why you suggest them, and even a link if you got it.

Current engine specs:

-Innovate supercharger (69mm pulley)
-Perrin big MAF intake
-Perrin Light weight crank and accessory pulleys
-HKS metal head gaskets (FI)
-ARP head studs
-Methanol injection at the throttle body (For cooling of the supercharger... and power)


What I've already got in mind to add:

---Will be adding to any build----
-Oil catch can (looking to the Velox system or a vent to atmosphere)
-Perrin Oil cooler
-Velox Radiator
-Dry Sump (totally doing it for the S&G's)
-Cometic (FI)
-Raceseng AC delete (I don't use it anyways and because race car)
-Flex fuel kit (Ptuning)
-stiffer motor mounts (revo transmission mounts)
-Deatschworks 700cc injectors
-Full Blown Fuel Return System
-ARP bolts
-Ferrea 6000 series valves
-Ferrea springs


--Headers--
-TOMEI EXPREME EQUAL LENGTH HEADER
or
-ACE TYPE B 4-2-1 150 MERGED HEADER

---Non pre-built bottom end (Don't know what brands yet)-----
-Forged connecting rods
-O-rings
-bearings
-OEM compression pistons

---Pre-built bottom end (The Frankenengine)-----
-I was talking with a friend of mine who thought of combining the FA20 DIT Short Block (2015-16 Subaru WRX block) with the NA FA20 head from the FRS/BRZ. This will give the reliability of a block built for boost plus all the fuel in the world as the NA FA20 heads have both port and direct injection.
Any thoughts? (We got conformation that this is a no-go. At least we tried.)

-what short block would you pick up while on the market? Brand?
-Full blown
-Element Tuning

----Other-------
-thoughts on a V8 swap? Any good engine and tranny combos I should look at?

-I found a 2JZ + a v161 tranny for cheap. Thoughts on that?

You do not want an FA20DIT anything. They're fine enough, but they offer no advantage over the 86 FA20. Sounds like you just need a rebuilt motor with some manley rods and CP pistons, that would take care of anything you could ever throw at it with a supercharger. Anything above that and you're looking at a track build, at which point that will certainly not be the last motor you will be going through. This we know, we've shipped several across the country and have found all the weak points in our own R&D with both a BRZ and a FA20 WRX track car For most street users we recommend keeping it simple, you don't need to spend an extra 4k to build a 9,000 RPM/600 whp capable motor. At 400 whp it will not last any longer than a reasonably built package at half the cost.

[P@ul]

King Bearings is making stuff for the FA20 now. Not sure if there are any other options, or advantages, to other companies. They're claiming improvements in oil pressure.


http://www.king-catalog.com/Catalog/Engine/10081062
http://www.turnology.com/race-covera...-subarus-fa20/


FA20 has also had multiple revisions of the valvetrain. Are there updated rocker arms? I think the cam changed as well, not sure if that's worth changing though.

[spitfire481]

i was holding 90psi oil pressure at 8500rpm with king bearings and 10w40, 700whp. oem head gaskets with properly decked block/heads held no problem for me, i dont see a reason to mess with aftermarket stuff. manley turbo tuffs with 625 bolts are a solid setup in my opinion. i ran them in my fa20, and we run then in the shop 8 second 2jz frs. with aftermarket valve springs, rocker pin failures seem to drop dramatically. I have done 5 fa20's with upgraded springs and proper valve lash, never had a failure

[Bfranklyn86]

Can I ask what whp you were at when the engine went? Cheers

[Jmonty]

what shop is the car at now?

[-Phil]

Originally Posted by spitfire481

i was holding 90psi oil pressure at 8500rpm with king bearings and 10w40, 700whp. oem head gaskets with properly decked block/heads held no problem for me, i dont see a reason to mess with aftermarket stuff. manley turbo tuffs with 625 bolts are a solid setup in my opinion. i ran them in my fa20, and we run then in the shop 8 second 2jz frs. with aftermarket valve springs, rocker pin failures seem to drop dramatically. I have done 5 fa20's with upgraded springs and proper valve lash, never had a failure

Do you have Data-logs that show that oil pressure and oil temp?

[spitfire481]

Originally Posted by Moto-Phil

Do you have Data-logs that show that oil pressure and oil temp?

i wasn't logging oil pressure on the dyno at that point, still had to wire the input into the jumper harness. i was running an aem gauge on the dash to verify things were going well. im certainly not talking road race pressures and temps, that's not what we built the car for. i just know at normal operating temp and under full load it made and held good pressure all the way to 9000 rpm. power dropped off some so we ended up limiting the car to 8500. doesnt matter too much now though, the oil pump gear shattered mid pass at the track. loosing oil pressure at 8k rpm and running for probably 30 seconds to get off the track, the main bearings were perfect and the rod bearings only had the coating scuffed off. would have been a rod bearing change and back together