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| Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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#1 |
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I'm sitting on 51k at this moment, need to oil change in a couple days. Can someone tell me exactly how much fluid I need to buy for each of the changes I need.. and tell me if I am missing any fluid changes I need to do.
From what I know my previous owner didn't do any of the service maintenance past 25k miles. As far as I know so far (because I'm a car dummy)... I need to change the following Engine Oil, and filter - I'm using Royal Purple and Genuine Subaru filter. (I don't know the part number for the filter but I am generally assuming if it fits a brz it will fit my car.) Trans / Differential oil , capacity is sitting no 2.2L and 1.1L respectively if I remember.... The real question for me is that noone has a guide on how to switch fluids for an Automatic car as I have an auto for daily driving. Can someone please help me on what fluids I need to change for this car, how much I need? |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to SmireyFase For This Useful Post: | Tart (09-10-2016) |
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#2 |
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5.5 quarts of oil. And a filter, obviously. If you're using the OEM drain plug you'll need a new crush washer, but they're pretty good about including one.
The 2.2L number is for manual transmissions. Get an automatic serviced by a dealer or mechanic. It's not as simple as changing fluids on a manual. Diff is 1.3L. You'll need new crush washers for the drain and fill plugs as well. Have you done brake fluid? That's supposed to be every 30K miles. DIY for manual trans/diff fluid changes, with torque values. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19218 |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to gramicci101 For This Useful Post: | humfrz (08-31-2016), SmireyFase (08-30-2016) |
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#3 | |
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#4 | |
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#5 | |
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#6 |
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Motul 300 or 300LS is great for the diff, but not the transmission. You need automatic transmission fluid, which is completely different.
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#7 |
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Which one should I use for my transmission... Don't mind spending a bit of money on it as it's more important to the life of my car hahah
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#8 |
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Contract? /人◕ ‿‿ ◕人\
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OEM fluid works perfectly fine for everyday driving.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to soulreapersteve For This Useful Post: | humfrz (08-31-2016) |
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#9 |
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#10 |
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Contract? /人◕ ‿‿ ◕人\
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Go with what make you have, so in this case, Toyota.
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#11 |
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DISCLAIMER: I have zero experience with the FRS/BRZ auto transmission.
If you car is automatic, it would probably be worth it to have the dealer do the fluid exchange on the transmission. Most modern automatics don't have a drain plug for trans fluid, and if they do, you're only going to get 20-40% of the old fluid out. Generally auto transmission fluid exchanges are done with a special machine that attaches in-line with your cooler hoses and will remove old fluid and replace with new while the vehicle is running on a lift. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to KendallH For This Useful Post: | gramicci101 (08-30-2016) |
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#12 | |
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#13 |
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In Autobahn withdrawl
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You will likely want to use Motul 300LS or something with an LSD additive for the rear differential. I use Motul 300V for my manual trans and Redline 75w90 LSD in the rear. 75w85 is also acceptable according to the UM but I can never find it on shelves. I forget exactly what the science is and where I've read it but I know that the additive packages for LSDs are different due to the mechanics, and it's important.
Also the stock fluids in the differential suck, and you'll want to replace them at least every 20-25k if you drive it hard, more often if tracked, although after 20k based purely on how it looked while draining last week alone. But the magnet was sludgy enough I'm glad I changed it just shy of 20k. Also if you look up UAs on Royal Purple you may want to shorten your oil change interval. It shears faster than other synthetics. I'm running it myself right now because I got it dirt cheap and tax free but I change it at 5k-ish Edit: for refrence, RE: Royal Purple: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1302957 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1238027 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...referrerid=767 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=894114 There are people who swear by it. I've used plenty of it myself without issue, not running OAs, though (though I plan on starting soon). However especially in forced induction applications and even without, there are an awful lot of OAs that indicate either that they aren't consistent or that at best, they aren't worth what they're charging. If you can find it at a bargain and considering you're running an automatic, I wouldn't worry about it too much. But I would be wary, especially in a dusty hot climate and for performance driving applications. Last edited by DoomsdayJesus; 09-02-2016 at 07:46 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to DoomsdayJesus For This Useful Post: | SmireyFase (09-06-2016) |
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#14 |
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Disregard the 300LS suggestion. It's good, but not better or worse than regular gear 300v gear oil since the lsd is a torsen. Additive not required
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Toyarzee For This Useful Post: | DoomsdayJesus (09-02-2016) |
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