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Old 06-17-2016, 09:53 AM   #12937
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How would the bolts secure the flange?
Not securing the flange but the body of the bushing by passing through the tube. If your tube wall is thick enough you could tap it. If not you would have to attach a bolt to give you the threaded hole.
The flange just helps support the bushing at the end of the tube.


Your tube would look like this with the bolt pushing against the bushing inside it. I would use two bolts per bushing just to make it that much more secure but you could probably get away with one.


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Old 06-17-2016, 10:13 AM   #12938
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Originally Posted by Tcoat View Post
Not securing the flange but the body of the bushing by passing through the tube. If your tube wall is thick enough you could tap it. If not you would have to attach a bolt to give you the threaded hole.
The flange just helps support the bushing at the end of the tube.


Your tube would look like this with the bolt pushing against the bushing inside it. I would use two bolts per bushing just to make it that much more secure but you could probably get away with one.


That's what I was imagining but I thought it may put too much pressure on it and clamp against the guide rod.
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:21 AM   #12939
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That's what I was imagining but I thought it may put too much pressure on it and clamp against the guide rod.
Grind a beveled end into the bolt (not a sharp point just a taper). This will hold the bushing without misshaping it or penetrating to the shaft. There shouldn't be enough friction on the guide to pull the bushing out anyway and if there is then there is a flaw in the design that is applying lateral force.






Another option if you have the equipment is to simply run a slot up one side of the tube and use U bolts to clamp the tube onto the bushings. This is probably what I would do.
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:30 AM   #12940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcoat View Post
Grind a beveled end into the bolt (not a sharp point just a taper). This will hold the bushing without misshaping it or penetrating to the shaft. There shouldn't be enough friction on the guide to pull the bushing out anyway and if there is then there is a flaw in the design that is applying lateral force.






Another option if you have the equipment is to simply run a slot up one side of the tube and use U bolts to clamp the tube onto the bushings. This is probably what I would do.
Slitting the carrier is an option. The guide rod won't be perfectly smooth so there will likely be wear and friction on the bearing. The split bearings... is their nominal size measured when pinched closed?
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:33 AM   #12941
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Slitting the carrier is an option. The guide rod won't be perfectly smooth so there will likely be wear and friction on the bearing. The split bearings... is their nominal size measured when pinched closed?
Get your rod as smooth as possible or you will just be asking for trouble. The nominal size is indeed in the closed position.
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:36 AM   #12942
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Get your rod as smooth as possible or you will just be asking for trouble. The nominal size is indeed in the closed position.
That's a big reason I want bearings. I don't have a good way to make it smooth. Maybe try to clamp in a lathe and run fine grit sand paper on it?
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:39 AM   #12943
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That's a big reason I want bearings. I don't have a good way to make it smooth. Maybe try to clamp in a lathe and run fine grit sand paper on it?
Oh dude be careful with that!


You have no dimensions on the drawing. How long and what diameter is the shaft? What material were you planning on using?
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:43 AM   #12944
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Oh dude be careful with that!


You have no dimensions on the drawing. How long and what diameter is the shaft? What material were you planning on using?
Probably 8ft long somewhere around 2 inch od steel. Unsure on thickness. Depends on what we have on hand. Probably .12 or .188
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:01 AM   #12945
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Probably 8ft long somewhere around 2 inch od steel. Unsure on thickness. Depends on what we have on hand. Probably .12 or .188
Oh that big a diameter may cause you some issues with the side mounted carrier. There may be to much side pressure put on it that will cause it to bind up with that much surface. Does the carrier need to be able to travel the full length? If not you could use your 2" tube as a base and run a smaller diameter smooth steel shaft for the travel section of the carriage. This will allow you to decrease the surface area and friction.
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:06 AM   #12946
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Oh that big a diameter may cause you some issues with the side mounted carrier. There may be to much side pressure put on it that will cause it to bind up with that much surface. Does the carrier need to be able to travel the full length? If not you could use your 2" tube as a base and run a smaller diameter smooth steel shaft for the travel section of the carriage. This will allow you to decrease the surface area and friction.
The guide could be smaller but I was trying to keep it simple
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:10 AM   #12947
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The guide could be smaller but I was trying to keep it simple
Oh I am all for keeping simple but sometimes we can try to be too simple and things just don't work.


If you really want to keep it simple:


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Old 06-17-2016, 11:12 AM   #12948
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Who dares me to go play in the FI subforum?
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:13 AM   #12949
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Who dares me to go play in the FI subforum?
And do what? I hang out there all the time but just keep my mouth shut.
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:17 AM   #12950
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Who dares me to go play in the FI subforum?
I triple dog dare you to try and pretend like this thing works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096...h7L&ref=plSrch
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