Fog lights on without headlights?

[Jman1759]

Originally Posted by xXDeathMaliCeXx

My foglight set up is run through the ignition wire. So anytime I turn my key to accessories on position the fogs will have power. And I bought the fog light button that goes next to the trunk release.

All you have to do is find the wire that tells when the fog lights are allowed to come on and solder it to the ignition wire. I have the Winjet fog kit so I don't know where any wires are from the OEM fogs.

Exactly what I am looking for, just need a little help with the wiring piece.

[D_Thissen]

I had my fog lights installed at the dealership, does anyone know if there is a quick repin to get them to come on with the parking lights?

[adrixe]

Any updates on this??

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[Leonardo]

Wire them to a switch. It's what I did. Then you can turn them on or off when you want.

[Regalo]

I wired mine to a switch and h11 harness I purchased from fteightysix.com. Originally my fog lights from Diode Dynamics had to be spliced with the headlights but I decided to go with a different direction. The only thing that stumped me was where to connect the power wire but fortunately I found this video helpful.[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6FZIHA4ibY"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6FZIHA4ibY[/ame]

[adrixe]

Anyone has a list of parts or wiring I need to do this?
Appreciate it. Thanks

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[stevesnj]

Just hook it to an accessory circuit that has a higher amp rating or to an engine run circuit.

[MuseChaser]

Originally Posted by Regalo

I wired mine to a switch and h11 harness I purchased from fteightysix.com. Originally my fog lights from Diode Dynamics had to be spliced with the headlights but I decided to go with a different direction. The only thing that stumped me was where to connect the power wire but fortunately I found this video helpful.

I watched that video, hoping it would help me in my search to figure out how to correctly wire my fog lights so that they would come on only when my fog light switch was activated AND my headlights were on and set to low beam. That's the way fog lights are intended to work; you wouldn't want them on with high beams because, in fog, high beams create too much glare anyway. Fog lights, situated closer to the road, help illuminate the lane markings and the road better in dense fog because there's less glare and light reflected back into your eyes from the water droplets suspended in the air. The amber color of most also helps cut glare. That's what foglights are for. There's no practical point in having your foglights on at any time other than when your low beams are on, driving in fog. If you want them on because you like the way it looks, hey, who am I to argue. I'm just saying there's no practical reason to do so.

Unfortunately, that video not only wasn't helpful, but it gave bad advice from someone who obviously had no idea how electrical systems work. "My friend showed me this.. give him a thumbs up." "The fuse is a 15, but there's 12.4 there so your fog lights are GOOD!" sheeeesh. Exposed bare wire wrapped around the blade of a fuse with some strands of that wire just sort of hanging out over the fuse... not exactly the safest way to do wiring. Have I done it in the past when I was the creator of that video's age or younger? Yep. Did I burn to death? Nope. Do I wish I had known better back then? That's a big affirmative.

Just in case someone else watched that linked video and it's their first exposure to wiring, the "15" on the fuse he indicated means that it won't let more than 15 amps of current flow; it has nothing to do w/ voltage (other than that the amperage of the circuit is power in watts divided by voltage; the 15 amp fuse would allow 180 watts on that circuit (12v x 15amps). The video creator seems to imply that, since it's a "15" fuse and there's only 12.4 volts there now, the fuse'll handle a few more volts for the switch. That makes even less sense than the "german vs. japanese engineering; which is more?" thread. Cars have a 12v battery, and the bulk of the electrical system is all 12v. The voltage will vary slightly with the condition of the battery charge prior to starting the car, the alternator and regulator condition, and engine rpm, condition of the ground wiring, etc., but should always be nominally 12v. Measured at the battery while the car is running, you should see between 13.7 - 14.5 volts or so for charging from the alternator depending upon temperature and load.

I am NOT an expert; I still struggle with troubleshooting electrical systems on my cars. Do NOT take any of this as fact without confirming it yourself. If anyone more versed than I sees errors, PLEASE point them out. I posted because don't want to see anyone led down the wrong path by that video.

Now.. can anyone help ME locate the trigger wire for the low beams?

Thanks..

Barry

[Regalo]

Originally Posted by MuseChaser

I watched that video, hoping it would help me in my search to figure out how to correctly wire my fog lights so that they would come on only when my fog light switch was activated AND my headlights were on and set to low beam. That's the way fog lights are intended to work; you wouldn't want them on with high beams because, in fog, high beams create too much glare anyway. Fog lights, situated closer to the road, help illuminate the lane markings and the road better in dense fog because there's less glare and light reflected back into your eyes from the water droplets suspended in the air. The amber color of most also helps cut glare. That's what foglights are for. There's no practical point in having your foglights on at any time other than when your low beams are on, driving in fog. If you want them on because you like the way it looks, hey, who am I to argue. I'm just saying there's no practical reason to do so.

Unfortunately, that video not only wasn't helpful, but it gave bad advice from someone who obviously had no idea how electrical systems work. "My friend showed me this.. give him a thumbs up." "The fuse is a 15, but there's 12.4 there so your fog lights are GOOD!" sheeeesh. Exposed bare wire wrapped around the blade of a fuse with some strands of that wire just sort of hanging out over the fuse... not exactly the safest way to do wiring. Have I done it in the past when I was the creator of that video's age or younger? Yep. Did I burn to death? Nope. Do I wish I had known better back then? That's a big affirmative.

Just in case someone else watched that linked video and it's their first exposure to wiring, the "15" on the fuse he indicated means that it won't let more than 15 amps of current flow; it has nothing to do w/ voltage (other than that the amperage of the circuit is power in watts divided by voltage; the 15 amp fuse would allow 180 watts on that circuit (12v x 15amps). The video creator seems to imply that, since it's a "15" fuse and there's only 12.4 volts there now, the fuse'll handle a few more volts for the switch. That makes even less sense than the "german vs. japanese engineering; which is more?" thread. Cars have a 12v battery, and the bulk of the electrical system is all 12v. The voltage will vary slightly with the condition of the battery charge prior to starting the car, the alternator and regulator condition, and engine rpm, condition of the ground wiring, etc., but should always be nominally 12v. Measured at the battery while the car is running, you should see between 13.7 - 14.5 volts or so for charging from the alternator depending upon temperature and load.

I am NOT an expert; I still struggle with troubleshooting electrical systems on my cars. Do NOT take any of this as fact without confirming it yourself. If anyone more versed than I sees errors, PLEASE point them out. I posted because don't want to see anyone led down the wrong path by that video.

Now.. can anyone help ME locate the trigger wire for the low beams?

Thanks..

Barry

Well obviously I'm no expert on how electrical systems either. I haven't experienced any problems with this yet although it did remedy my problem where even if I activated my high beams would still be on. If there's a better place to wire that power wire, I'd certainly love to know where it is.

[adrixe]

I hope someone can hack this or have a better solution specially with the brz.

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[stevesnj]

Use the always on harness just hook to the fogs instead

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/c.../category/814/


[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwTl92M2WDI"]Always-Onâ„¢ Module for Subaru BRZ by Diode Dynamics - YouTube[/ame]

[adrixe]

Have you done this already? If so any step by steps to do this?

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[Cdmazero]

Ok. First you need to be able to use a multi meter. Turn the fogs lights on and find the +12 volt lead. Cut this lead from the main harness and run a new wire from both cut leads ( bulb side) to a relay that is powered from an accessory powered switch. Don't forget to tape up the existing leads that u cut.