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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#29 |
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Go test drive the current one first. If you need to get moving just downshift and rev it out. If you like to drive lazy then there is no replacement for displacement.
This kind of midrange torque dip is nothing new, even Porsches have that. Myself I went with a little higher clamping pressure clutch and clutch cover setup, that alone gave me a better feel of acceleration. |
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#30 |
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I've test drove the current model a couple times, and I really, really enjoyed every second of it. And I'm looking for as much driving engagement as possible.
Let me throw this out there. I know we can play the what if game all day and all night, but if the 2016 and 2017 cost the exact same amount, which would you take and why? Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk |
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#31 |
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While running up the revs is often fun, having some mid-range grunt has its advantages - you don't have to have the car screaming like a banshee and attracting unwanted attention in order to make a quick pass in dense traffic.
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#32 | |
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Quote:
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#33 |
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#34 |
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#35 |
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How is that possible when they haven't released specs, pricing, or basically any information other than what's in that video? Did they give you a price or any information on when it will arrive or anything that may shed some light for the rest of us?
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#36 |
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I think because the factory has already started producing the 2017 cars ("E" chassis) it would be impossible to order a 2016 ("D" chassis).
I think someone already posted that Subaru started taking orders for the new car at the beginning of this month. The dealer probably just ask for a deposit to be in line even if nothing is finalized yet. If price is no object I would take a 2017 with Performance Pack, get the best base as possible. |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to krayzie For This Useful Post: | funwheeldrive (05-28-2016), NLS8520 (05-28-2016) |
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#37 |
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Wait for the magazine reviews at least and see what the verdict is.
Also, keep in mind that buying a first year refresh could have issues like when the MY13s came out. You might have more quirks with your car than the MY18 or MY19. It should all be covered under warranty though. Just don't get disappointed if they announce something even better a year after you get your car. |
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#38 |
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If you manage to place a new order now, then you'll get it faster. You'll be early in the queue. In fact you might get it as soon as they start the new production and start shipping the first cars. This is what happened to my when I ordered the 2015 model. I had to wait 6 months because the production was over and I had to wait for the new production cycle. They don't make these cars the whole year. They stop the production in specific months and build other models to speed a bit the high demand.
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#39 | |
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Quote:
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#40 |
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Come on guys, they are not so many differences. It is just a model refresh. When the car first came out it was an entirely new platform. I don't expect to see any important issues. The most possible, no issues at all.
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#41 |
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I didn't mean any huge failures. Just things like leaky taillights or peeling steering wheels. New pieces that haven't stood the test of time yet.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to funwheeldrive For This Useful Post: | nikitopo (05-28-2016) |
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#42 | ||
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Quote:
Why? Because all the "improvements" on the 2017 are easily replaced with aftermarket mods. Quote:
-alex |
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