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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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i like new performance package but like others said, it's over-priced
if i dont mod anything, i would go with 2017 but i would try to get killer deal on 2015-2016 models. i like new 4.3 FD and prefer older tachometer |
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#16 | |
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I see no reason why anyone with the money would wait to get a higher-priced 2017 if you can score a deal on 2016 sitting on a dealer's lot right now. There is nothing the 2017 model offers that is going to drastically change the driving experience. It's just a very mild mid-generation refresh. Honestly, it's not like the current cars aren't already great machines. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Fishbed77 For This Useful Post: | Zaku (05-27-2016) |
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#17 |
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Also consider it's a Subaru and you're likely going to be able to swap in 2017+ parts to older 2013-2016 models to upgrade later on in the future when they start to show up in the junk yard.
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#18 |
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Once you get the car, you will begin look at a bunch of cosmetic mods.
For example, the new Valenti Revo Taillights, new rims/tires/wheels, and things that will boost the HP/Torque of the car. The new "upgrades" isn't even close to being impressive. You can get the same increase in power by swapping out single pieces, which is basically what they did. If I were you, I'd take the 2016 at a good discounted price and then mod it with the money you saved by not taking the 2017. The only thing that tore me was the dashboards update. I always felt the BRZ lacked technology in the interior and although that dashboard shit is useless to me, it's still "technologically improved." If you don't care much for that, I'd take the 2016. Oh and depends if you like the current BRZs front bumper/grill or the new one. |
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#19 |
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As odd as it looks, the new intrusment panel is kind of appealing to me.
I'm lucky enough that either way I go, I can get a good price on one, whether it's a 2016 or 2017. I just don't want to get a 2016 and then regret the decision for the small updates, though I doubt that would happen. Just torn right now between the 2016 and waiting a month for a 2017!!! Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk |
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#20 | |
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I ordered my 2016 BRZ in October or 2015, I got in 2016 March. But if you get the 2016, you'll get it right off the lot or at most a week for them to find one in the area. Order the 2017 and it might come in the middle of Winter, and then you're fucked. (If you have winter in your area) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to DGM-BRZ For This Useful Post: | Sherb (07-11-2016) |
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#21 | |
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But we'll have to wait and see. Definitely wouldn't want to wait until December or January just to get this car honestly. |
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#22 | |
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If you are going to mod and want to get what we can get out of the current car, then don't bother with a 2017. If you want to drive the car as-is and maximize your enjoyment out of it, get a 2017 as it has improvements over the current car. You already answered your own question... unless you are modding for the sake of modding, and don't even know what you are trying to fix on a car you have yet to own. -alex |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mav1178 For This Useful Post: | krayzie (05-27-2016) |
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#23 |
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not worth it. just get a clean used one. its 99% the same car and costs several thousands less.
__________________
2018 GT3 6MT
2021 M2 Comp DCT Past: 458 Italia, R35 GTR, E36/E46/F80 M3, 335i, Scion FRS |
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#24 | |
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I'd like to drive the car stock for a while and enjoy it in its natural form for a while. But I have done extensive research about the car, and found that the biggest gripe is the torque dip in the 3000-4500 RPM range. I wouldn't mind a 2016. I've almost bought one multiple times lately. But as the time frame that I'm planning to buy in lines up with the release of the new model, I am stuck with a dilemma. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to TheWatersBoy For This Useful Post: | ZionsWrath (05-27-2016) |
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#25 | |
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I'll tell you this: I know of the torque dip and I have no problem driving it flat-out on the track with stock headers and stock ECU tune. To each their own, just don't mod for the sake of modding. -alex |
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#26 | |
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And mods must be purposeful and tasteful. All other mods are considered "rice." Lolz |
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#27 | |
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As for mods, some people just don't modify the engine as much as others. If you need that straight line, planted-in-your-seats acceleration, no amount of modding will solve that problem for you. People these days truly have no appreciation for what this car gives you. 15 years ago you can buy a DC2 Integra Type-R that gives you wonderful acceleration out of a 2.0L 200HP FWD car... but makes the road noise and creature comforts of the FRS/BRZ feel like a luxury car. Again: mod to address an issue or deficiency to you. Don't mod just because you read about some torque dip. -alex |
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#28 |
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Thanks for the insight. I'm not looking for blindingly fast straight line speed. A bunch of my buddies are all about, "Who can pull the hardest on the freeway??" I'd rather cruise the back roads and canyons any day.
I'm looking forward to the simplicity of the vehicle and the reward of driving it rather than the car doing all of it for you. I would rather have something light and nimble than have a car that's fast but feels like a boat. Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk |
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