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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ

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Old 05-16-2016, 12:25 PM   #85
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I want to double check and make sure this is the correct fluid. I called the Subaru dealer and they said they only sold it in 5 gallon buckets. I figured this is probably the same stuff, but I want to make sure.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Automatic-Transmission-Standard/dp/B00CTUSEMU"]Amazon.com: Genuine Toyota Lexus Automatic Transmission Fluid 1QT WS ATF World Standard (4 Pack): Automotive[/ame]
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:06 PM   #86
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OEM versus after-market synthetic fluids

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I want to double check and make sure this is the correct fluid. I called the Subaru dealer and they said they only sold it in 5 gallon buckets. I figured this is probably the same stuff, but I want to make sure.

Amazon.com: Genuine Toyota Lexus Automatic Transmission Fluid 1QT WS ATF World Standard (4 Pack): Automotive
I didn't use that fluid for one simple reason. "It isn't a synthetic fluid." That means it will have more behavior changes as it heats up. It will also wear out sooner, and become burnt when over-heated. If you are going to use OEM fluid, then install a good after-market transmission fluid cooler, to keep the temps down. But, you will still have to live with driving a "cold tranny" every morning, if you aren't using a synthetic fluid.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:34 PM   #87
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I didn't use that fluid for one simple reason. "It isn't a synthetic fluid." That means it will have more behavior changes as it heats up. It will also wear out sooner, and become burnt when over-heated. If you are going to use OEM fluid, then install a good after-market transmission fluid cooler, to keep the temps down. But, you will still have to live with driving a "cold tranny" every morning, if you aren't using a synthetic fluid.
What did you use? I'm thinking Redline D6 ATF now or something like that.
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Old 05-16-2016, 06:50 PM   #88
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I went with the Amsoil synthetic.
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:34 PM   #89
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I did the change today, took a lot longer than I expected but went well. My fluid was almost a yellow color and looked very clean. Almost no metal shavings on the plugs either. I was expecting the fluid to be really dark with 70,000 miles on it, but I drive a lot of highways so maybe that why it looked clear.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-31-2016, 05:47 AM   #90
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Sure. First slide the drivers seat back. Now step outside the car. With your back to the car, lean back and slide in the car on your back until you can push the gas pedal with the top of your head. Open your eyes and look up. Right there is your OBD2 connector. The pic I posted earlier with the numbers on it from 1-8, and from 9-16 is it. This is just how it looks from below. Now get back out of the car because you forgot to get a paper-clip first. Bend the paper-clip into a U shape. Make one of the legs of the U a little longer than the other one. Insert the longer end into the 4th hole from the left side of the fatter end, that's hole number 4, then, (here's why one end is longer) swing the U shaped paper-clip while it's partially in hole number 4 around so the other end is over hole number 13, (that's the 4th hole from the right side of the skinnier end of the connector), push and wiggle until both ends are in holes numbered 4 and 13 in the pic i posted previously. Now slide back out, start up your car. You'll immediately notice the check engine light flashing. Follow the instructions going through the gears again, then do the shifter thing moving between "N" and "D" quickly with your foot on the brakes. Eventually the shift up and down lights will come on, indicating you are in "Oil amount adjustment" mode. Shift it into Park. Leave the engine running. Pull out the paper-clip. Watch the shift indicators. If you see the indicator pointing up, or if you see both indicators, your car is too warm. Shut off your car and wait at least 30 minutes before you try again. When you can pull out the paper clip and just see the shift indicator pointing down then it is too cool to measure, but watch and wait as your car warms up. As soon as both lights come on, slide out and underneath your car, remove the overflow plug and drain until it comes out thin as a thread. reinstall plug with new metal compression washer, reinstall refill plug with new rubber O-ring, slide out and shut off your car. Yes it was supposed to be running this whole time.
I just realized this while I was typing this up. I didn't print out that part of the instructions and now I have to do it again. !@#%&* I drained it while my car was off. See pic below and instruction number 9. It does say start the engine. It never says to turn off the engine, it just says turn ignition to off.
Thanks for the informative post! I have a couple questions though.

Do you only have the car on while on the final step to let the fluid bead out through the overflow hole (besides when turning it on to shift through gears right after filling before emptying again)

Also, instead of using the paper clip method to see temps, couldn't you use like a Bluetooth obdii plug in to see diagnostics such as tranny fluid temp?

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Old 05-31-2016, 04:26 PM   #91
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I would not recommend the OBD2 connector

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Thanks for the informative post! I have a couple questions though.

Do you only have the car on while on the final step to let the fluid bead out through the overflow hole (besides when turning it on to shift through gears right after filling before emptying again)

Also, instead of using the paper clip method to see temps, couldn't you use like a Bluetooth obdii plug in to see diagnostics such as tranny fluid temp?

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I recommend following this guide. Make sure your car is level first. Drain/Fill and repeat as often as recommended, or more. Let it cool down. Bring up to temp and drain to thin stream. Re-plug, drop down and drive.
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Old 06-04-2016, 03:55 PM   #92
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I ended up doing it myself. Not so bad, but the check engine light won't stay off. Just stayed since I shorted it. Weird. Downshifts to second are kind of shaky but super smooth overall

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Old 06-04-2016, 05:58 PM   #93
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Is the CEL on now?

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I ended up doing it myself. Not so bad, but the check engine light won't stay off. Just stayed since I shorted it. Weird. Downshifts to second are kind of shaky but super smooth overall

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What codes is it giving?
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:19 PM   #94
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Haven't been able to check.

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Old 06-04-2016, 06:19 PM   #95
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But I've never had a cel before. The one from entering the diagnostic mode just never went away.

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Old 06-04-2016, 08:00 PM   #96
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Quote:
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But I've never had a cel before. The one from entering the diagnostic mode just never went away.

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You did remove the wire from the connector, right?
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:09 PM   #97
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After the first time I did it, no, because I left to let my transmission cool down to get food. Once I came back and did it again, I removed it after going to park

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Old 06-05-2016, 09:13 PM   #98
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After redoing the oil temp check mode, the cel went away, and so did my hard shifts. Car shifts amazingly. Recommend redline d6 ATF for the AT

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