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04-26-2016, 02:45 AM | #113 | |
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The manual says to tighten the pinion nut to 74 ft-lbf and check the prevailing torque it takes to turn the gears via the pinion to confirm preload. Then adjust UP TO 249 ft-lbf until it is in the proper range. For used pinion bearing and used differential case bearings, the prevailing torque should be 13.3-22.9 in-lbf per the official service manual if the bearings are preloaded correctly. As far as removing the differential, the way I did it is a little sketchy, but works if you are careful. The teeth are meshed and must unmesh for you to remove the differential. That, combined with the high friction of the shims that preload case bearings, makes this difficult. 1) Remove the cradles that hold the bearing races in place. 2) Mark the left/right bearing races/shims so you can identify them later. When you pull the diff out, they will likely fall off and you need to put them back in the same place you found them. 3) Get a soft piece of metal (read "aluminum") or a piece of rubber and place it on the flat seal surface where the adhesive gasket sits on the differential case. This will be your fulcrum location and you need to protect it from getting scarred. 4) Take a crow bar or other stiff piece of metal and fit it behind the round part of the differential and try to pry it out. You can also try to hit it with a hammer or find another solid shoulder on the diff to work against (I vaguely remember prying in the gap between the diff and ring gear, but this is risky as it may chip one of the teeth on the gear). You may also be able to work the diff from both sides to rock it forward and back until it works free (you would be working it in the same plane that the ring gear runs in. i.e. if the ring gear is a circle, work the diff in the direction this circle is drawn on, not in the direction of the case bearings). Alternatively, you may be able to fit a rope behind the circular part of the diff and pull it straight out while tapping the diff with a rubber mallet. You'll have to be creative, but this should hopefully help. |
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04-26-2016, 11:12 AM | #114 | |
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Yeah I was hoping we would not have to remove the pinion nut or change the preload on it, as we're just replacing the diff and not replacing the pinion gear or ring gear (existing ring gear will be swapped onto the new diff). Is that right, or will we still need to change the preload on the pinion once the new diff is in? I'll measure the torque on it at the moment and check it once the new diff is in to be sure, but in theory will we probably be ok with leaving the pinion alone? All of the guides I can find seem to assume you are taking the pinion out as well, so I'm just trying to understand exactly which bits we need to do when we're only replacing the diff and not changing final drive. I'm assuming we will still need to get some different size shims for each side of the diff where the axles and bearings sit, but hoping to avoid doing anything with shims on the pinion end.
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04-26-2016, 11:26 AM | #115 |
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wow.
Just read through this whole DIY. I don't plan on doing this modification but I still like to read up on these to just see what steps are needed. Lots of work was put into this and would like to thank you for it!
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04-27-2016, 02:47 AM | #116 | |
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04-27-2016, 07:08 AM | #117 |
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In my case I could reuse the old shims as the backlash was correct and this despite the fact that I changed the pinion, ring gear, differential and all the bearings and the pinion depth even needed to be changed by factor of approximately 3 (compared to the original one). On top of it I was using an old differential housing from a Lexus IS300.
So, it'd be surprised if you needed different shims if you just swapped the differential. |
04-27-2016, 07:17 AM | #118 |
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As far as getting the differential out:
I was simply using a brass drift pin and a hammer to drive the shims out and then the differential was dropping right out of its housing. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-14270-3-Piece-Drift/dp/B0014DIK36"]Amazon.com: S&G Tool Aid 14270 3-Piece Drift Pin Set, Brass: Automotive [/ame] (And removed the side shaft seals beforehand in order to reach the shims with the drift pin). |
05-06-2016, 06:19 AM | #119 |
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OK so we've hit a bit of a problem... the original shims don't fit with the new diff in and Toyota don't sell any small enough to make it fit!
We got the new diff in and tried the original shims, of course they didn't fit (too big) so we pushed the diff as far to one side as it would go and measure the total distance that the shims would need to cover (with feeler gauges). It was 4.4mm, so we're assuming ideally we need 2.2mm shims on each side but the smallest shim toyota make is 2.5mm. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I'm struggling to find anywhere selling diff shims online, especially for this car (but not sure how vehicle specific they are really).
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05-06-2016, 11:42 AM | #120 |
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I've installed an OS Giken differential and could even reuse the old shims.
I'd be surprised if the bearing locations would be different on any other differential - especially since this differential was already applied in Lexus and possibly Supra models. Sorry if this sounds too obvious, but have you made sure that the new bearings were pressed all the way to the stop? |
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05-06-2016, 11:50 AM | #121 | |
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Quote:
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AVO Stage 4 Turbo, Carrillo forged con rods, 10:1 CR Carrillo pistons, AVO 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Helix clutch, TheDriveShaftShop drive shafts, lightweight flywheel, NamelessPerformance hydraulic hand brake, KW V3 coilovers... and lots of other little bits Last edited by ChrisD; 05-06-2016 at 12:07 PM. |
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05-07-2016, 08:23 AM | #122 |
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No, but initially I was heating the bearing to about 100 C, but I don't think that would have been necessary. I was using a 12 ton press to press the bearing onto the differential but don't know what the actual force may have been (it was less than what the pinion bearing needed). In any case, I don't think you could do any harm to the bearing as long as you only push on its inner ring.
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The Following User Says Thank You to rx3 For This Useful Post: | ChrisD (05-08-2016) |
05-08-2016, 08:07 AM | #123 | |
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We got the new diff installed in the end
I got this reply from Kaaz (the makers of my diff): Quote:
Then we put the original shims in and measured backlash etc and all seemed perfectly within spec. So we got it all back on the car and so far so good! There's a very noticeable clunking sound on tight slow turns but apparently that is normal (though its hard to know if it should be quite this loud and noticeable) but no whining sound when driving at any speed at all. One question I do have is how did anyone else torque the bolts on the drive shaft up to the right torque spec (the 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the pinion flange on the diff) ? We could barely get a spanner in there let alone a socket with a torque wrench on it. So we just did them as tight as we possibly could, but always wary of not doing things up to the right torque spec.
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05-08-2016, 01:33 PM | #124 |
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I'm glad you fixed it.
I wouldn't worry about that clunking. I have that occasional clunking at low speeds too - even though they said that the OS Giken diff would not clunk. I also didn't have the proper tools for torquing the driveshaft. What's important is that both mating surfaces are clean (otherwise you'll encounter some vibration at higher speeds.) Last edited by rx3; 05-08-2016 at 02:49 PM. |
05-15-2016, 10:35 PM | #125 |
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great amount of detail. i got no one to help me with an install like this, i'll just hustle at work and let the shop do it for me.
I got a kaaz 1.5 way sitting in my barn. i'd throw in a DDS axle aswell.
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05-16-2019, 04:55 PM | #126 |
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Sorry to re-up, I have to replace final drive in my new car (so I'll not change the diff bearings). If I understand, as I'll use a new standard crush spacer, I'll just have to adjust pinion preload using factory manual, so I'll need no shims. And I'll not need shims for diff, as I'll not replace bearing, is this correct?
Thanks! |
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