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#29 | ||
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I would avoid the crawford power blocks and get uels and a tune, it's a much better bang for buck and has proven gains and doesn't decrease as mods are added. If manual get 4.56 If auto get 4.88 This is all assuming you stay N/A
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#30 | |
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![]() Why pick and choose when you can have all the above together though!
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#31 |
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Because the gains of crawford bpb+uel are minimal at best, there are multiple dyno plots showing this, your warranty is void with either mod even the blocks. It's just a matter of what gets damaged if something happens
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#32 |
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more torque would be nice. but there are two school of thought with engines like this.. some will say 'awesome I get to rev it out!' , and others will say 'ugh, i have to rev it out' . Neither one is right, you just have to see what you like.
Stock car is fine for me. I'd rather have better brakes (they run out pretty quick) or a weight loss of 200 lbs rather than +50hp.
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#33 | |
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Sadly power figures have these day's become a dumbed down basic point of comparison between one car and another when they should really be used to help measure what change a single (or series of) mod(s) had brought to a car to help validate a change.
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#34 |
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Right or wrong ... the people who appreciate low weight and adequate power make up a minority. Especially in the USA. It's all about MORE. Trucks with more Tq to tow. Sports passenger sedans with more Hp. American muscle cars with more Hp. Exotic/Supercars with more Hp. Hell ... even electric cars like Tesla is building cars with more juice.
I don't see this pattern changing much, but eventually it will have to change.
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#35 |
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Would continue to drive it exactly the same way I currently do. The only difference is I'd get up to speed a bit quicker.
Cool man, exactly what this car needs! Even if I had FI levels of power, it would literally only mean I could get up to speed that much quicker. I don't get the need for more power. If they want to eliminate the tq dip, I'm all for that, but again, hardly noticeable in day to day driving. |
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#36 | |
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Pushing HP numbers is an easy sell because it gives something that any person can compare in a common scale. The fact that those HP numbers are used differently by the rest of the drive train and overall car design is not so obvious. 1947 the "only" car to give you a 100HP V8 (more like 80 if measured using today's methods) ![]() How about meeting the ultimate goal of "1 HP per cubic inch"? (again old measurement method)
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#37 | |
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#38 |
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I didn't even know about the UEL removing the torque dip. Do I need a tune? Will my warranty be void if I install one? Will my car be too loud? What's the best brand to buy?
Obviously I meant from the factory, and not aftermarket options. |
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#39 |
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The Stig's African Cousin
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Yes you need a tune. I won't necessarily void your warranty unless the dealership can prove that it caused the issue, if you go catless it is illegal since you are tampering with a emissions device. Your car will be louder and depending on whether its catted or cattless will determine the overall loudness. Cattless will be louder vs catted but both will increase sound but it shouldn't be crazy loud. Most consider JDL, Tomei, Grupple-S, and HKS to be quality headers. The factory only sells the stock header you already have.
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#40 | |
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#41 |
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Rather have more HP and not need it, than have a need for it and not have it
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#42 |
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I'm not sure it would appease the critics. 50 hp NA would put the power-to-weight slightly above the S2000 and plenty of people complained that car was slow. It's all about where the power is made in the RPM band.
As humdizzle mentioned, some people enjoy being able to rev the engine out. Others want the power early with a low redline. The critics generally fall in the latter camp and are really looking for more mid-range torque, either through displacement or FI. Look at the number of people who think the Fiesta ST is more fun to drive than the Twins even though it's slower 0-60 and 1/4 mile. Fun = midrange torque (to them).
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