FRS Break-in guide

[Kwaziekeller]

I'll probably break my FR-S in just like I broke in my SRT4, and my Charger SRT8. I've always used higher gears and moderate throttle, "short shifting", so the engine is under a greater load @ lower RPM's. Then I avoid the cruise control, and vary my speed by 10mph or so as I've got a good 30mi freeway drive from the dealership home. Then over the next few days, I drive the car like it will be driven 90% of the time (to and from work etc) some moderate rpms here and there but no redline WOT runs yet. Once I hit about 200mi, I consider it fair game and can no longer resist the temptation. After this 200mi mark, the car will be subjected to several WOT runs up on-ramps etc, as it would in my "normal driving". The clutch won't really get "abused" until around 400mi, then I'll start side stepping/dumping between shifts on WOT runs etc (I also heel-toe downshift manuals in regular driving bc it's a less harsh transition between the engine load increase of a lower gear). I'm no mechanic, just a gear head like most of "us" are. I used "my technique" on my '04 SRT4 (60k mi, and made 330whp after some supporting mods (still stock turbo)) and my current '07 SRT8 has 90k mi (40k with a Procharger P1 s/c @ 6psi making 500whp SAE) and neither car used oil, had blowby problems, lost compression etc. Not saying what I do is perfect/right/works or anything, just saying that, to me, it's common sense... resist the urge for spirited driving for a while, as long as you're comfortable with, but don't jump in the car and give it hell nor should you drive it like it's some ultra-exotic collector car and you're worried about a bug hitting the windshield.

Now my .02 on "engine break in procedures" : When you buy a new car, it's not going to have 0mi on it, even if you're picking it up @ the end of the assembly line. The lowest I've seen (when I took delivery as it came off of the trailer @ the dealership) was 9mi. There is no telling how many cold starts, and short trips the car has endured during that time as it is shuffled from the line, to a holding area, to a truck, to a port, on a train, wherever it goes to get from the line to you. I will say that the workers who move the vehicles around cannot wait for the engine to reach "operating temps", and that it's usually low rpm and moderate loads that they use (i.e. zipping around a parking lot) because like everything else... time is $. So, bottom line, you're brand new car, is probably 70% broken in by the time you even see it. What you're left with, break in wise, are the things that generally take time to wear in, such as a clutches, bedding of brake pads, tires, etc.

In my final thought/recommendation... drive it like you're going to drive it. I highly doubt any buyers will be using their new car as a "track only car" so driving it "like you plan to drive it" doesn't mean "drive it like you stole it". If you like drag racing or auto-x then give it a few hundred miles, or maybe a 1000mi before you subject it to your passion, and no matter how you decide to break it in, it's your car, so you're going to have to any consequences if there are any.

[huma]

I had a car once that I tried the "drive it like you stole it" method of break in and due to my real world experience, I'd say it's not worth it. Every other car that I broke in like the manual told me = better reliability + faster than my friends vehicles who didn't follow the proper break in procedures.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Genomaxter

All engineers do is design, analysis, then trials. Drafters do all the drawings and documentation. Engineers then check all the technical stuff, sign off on it then it gets passed to checking who consult with the lawyers. Lawyers have final say on anything that could cost the company money. Then it goes back to drafting for final drafts.

I am an engineer, and while I don't work for a car company, I can assure you that technical details such as break in procedure, is written/fully approved by engineers. Now, you might say there are other ways to break in the car that won't hurt it either and that's fine. BUT I can guarantee you that the break in procedure suggested in the manual WILL NOT hurt the engine in any way.

If I have to choose between some guy in the internet doing research with some motors and the engineers who designed the engine I will choose the in house recommendation. Again, I am 1000% sure the OEM break in procedure produces NO HARM on the engine. The internet "motoman" procedure... only God knows.

[lordtakuban]

There is part of the vehicle break-in procedure that was not quoted. Here is the entire little section:

The performance and long life of your vehicle are dependent on how you handle and care for your vehicle while it is new. Follow these instructions during the first 1000 miles (1600 km):

�* Do not allow the engine speed to exceed 4000 rpm except in an emergency.
�* Do not drive at one constant engine or vehicle speed for a long time, either fast or slow.
�* Avoid starting suddenly and rapid acceleration, except in an emergency.
�* Avoid hard braking, except in an emergency.

The same break-in procedures should be applied to an overhauled engine, newly mounted engine or when brake pads or brake linings are replaced with new ones.

Note that last bit in bold? This is for the whole vehicle and not just the engine. As has been stated many times already, the engine by itself has already been "broken in" before you got it. You want a good clutch to flywheel mating, brake pad to rotor bedding as the 2 main other things.

The oil change right away is also a good idea. Maybe send off a sample to blackstone labs to get a baseline. Then send samples at your other changes. That's what I plan to do anyway.

[DetroitJake]

Originally Posted by denkigrve

Does anyone have the break-in guide for the FRS yet?

See page 125 of the Owners Manual:

********************
New Vehicle break-in driving (the first 1000 miles [1600km])

The performance and long life of your vehicle are dependent on how you handle and care for your vehicle while it is new. Follow these instructions during the first 1000 miles (1600 km):

• Do not allow the engine to exceed 4000 rpm except in an emergency.
  
• Do not drive at one constant engine or vehicle speed for a long time, either fast or slow.
  
• Avoid starting suddenly and rapid acceleration, except in an emergency.
  
• Avoid hard breaking, except in an emergency.

The same break-in procedures should be applied to an overhauled engine, newly mounted engine or when brake pads or brake linings are replaced with new ones.
********************

In my humble opinion, I wouldn't freak out if you didn't follow this procedure, but if you still have time to follow it, its probably not a bad idea.

Save the rpm racing for a little later.

[JDMSushi]

So do these ECU's really keep a log of speed rpm etc?

If this is the case. Not good.

Ah well there's always 2JZ's

[mRdeMs83]

I feel so horrible now! My poor baby. Have I hurt the car? I am now at 1034 miles.

[DetroitJake]

Originally Posted by mRdeMs83

I feel so horrible now! My poor baby. Have I hurt the car? I am now at 1034 miles.

I wouldn't sweat it. I've pushed mine a bit too (during the break in period), though I'm trying not to rev it all the time. If it makes you feel any better here's some of my sufferings:
1) My FR-S got hit in a parking lot after owning it for only 4 days. Minor front bummer and driver's side front 1/4 panel damage but it still makes me cry.
2) Got caught in a hail storm on week two of ownership. Very rare in Michigan. Haven't seen one in 20 years. There's about 20-30 small almost invisible (but visible) dimples on the hood and roof.

Other tangential information regarding your engine:
*) My 2003 Insight (bought new in 2003) got driven hard plenty during the run in period. It only has about 70hp and you need all 70 of those horses to get her moving sometimes. The engine now has about 200,000 miles and still runs pretty good. A little idle vibration (I think the motor mounts are bad) and some slight clanking sound internally (but that sound has been there most of its life and most people can't even hear it).

* Long story short, you should be fine. Its recommended but not required I think. If it was, I'm sure people would make a bigger deal out of it. Manufacturing tolerances are so high these days, its basically perfect off the line. No need for a wear in period per se.

[RandomHero]

Yeah wish i had read that section of the owners manual before the drive home... dealer said nothing so the car definitely saw at least 5k RPM 3times and possibly 7K once

it was warm though?

[chulooz]

Originally Posted by RandomHero

Yeah wish i had read that section of the owners manual before the drive home... dealer said nothing so the car definitely saw at least 5k RPM 3times and possibly 7K once

it was warm though?

Never heard of the whole 'break-in' concept on a new car, huh? Ah well Im sure she pulls just fine anyways, right?

[RandomHero]

Originally Posted by chulooz

Never heard of the whole 'break-in' concept on a new car, huh? Ah well Im sure she pulls just fine anyways, right?

Well I know of the break in concept for a new plane engine. Mineral oil for 50 hours and no rapid power changes. Full power isn't restricted though. In fact the first flight after engine change requires 25mins at full power.

[LeeLeeTee]

Lol I feel the same way 7thgear. I'm just going to drive the car as I normally would and really not think about it too hard on whether it should be an easy break in or hard break in.

[QIK86]

i wasnt informed by the dealer nor my manual of a break in/run in. if it was important i would have been notified. also run ins are frankly things of the past in my opinion. Motors are run in before we recieve them even before they are placed into the vehicle. then when placed into vehicle car is also road tested hence why you recive the vehicle with like 15-20kms on the clock. thats my 2c. meh im just under 1000kms and ive gone on a few spirited runs if anything its done good. warn in the syncros, and beded the break pads its. it is a boxer engine after all they arent weak lol.

[LeftFootBrake]

Originally Posted by QIK86

i wasnt informed by the dealer nor my manual of a break in/run in. if it was important i would have been notified.

Actually, the manual does tell you run it in for the first 1000m/1600km: LeftFootBrake's White GTS AT (post 21 spells it out).
You are certainly free to ignore the advice of the engine's designers and instead choose to heed the silence of you dealer, but if I were to guess I would predict your dealership didn't say anything to you simply because they are ignorant of both the manual and the fact that it's a car with most bits made by Subaru (and they are used to Toyota-made cars that don't require running-in).