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04-14-2016, 04:22 PM | #1 |
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My Focal based audio build
Hey everyone,
Just wanted to log my audio build. Since I started driving my BRZ, I was planning to upgrade audio system sooner or later. Almost a year later, it's time to do so! Key points of the build:
Unfortunately, it is going to be a slow build. I will do basically everything by myself and right now I do not have much spare time (I am student). But by end of next month I should get started. Any tips or tricks for the build are greatly appreciated. Right now I am thinking if I should mount crossovers in doors or somewhere else. By mounting them in doors total wires length will be longer (as there are separate wires for mids and tweeters), but I am not really sure where to mount them else. P.S. Tuning should be not an issue. My father is a sound engineer, thus we have all required equipment for measuring frequency response. |
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04-14-2016, 04:31 PM | #2 |
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Look forward to seeing where this goes!
I went with a 2 way component system up front so I could have the tweeter mounted in the stock location, and then the crossover fit perfectly in the empty space where the 3.5 inch speaker was... |
04-14-2016, 06:36 PM | #3 |
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What are you going to use to tune it? For sound quality, your going to at least need time alignment and 16 bands of eq per side, minimum.
As for deadening, search for my CLD Testing thread. Objective evidence for many products, including finding out which product is the absolute best for the weight. |
04-16-2016, 11:37 AM | #4 |
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Tuning options are not very advanced. Crossovers have adjustable mids/tweeters outputs. There are adjustable high/low pass filters in amplifiers, sonic filter, bass boost and etc. I will try to get as flat frequency response as possible using tuning on equipment. Then (as I am using Android based head-unit), I will fine-tune system using equalizer. As for time delay - there won't be any processor, thus there's nothing I can do about it. But it's a small car, there shouldn't too many issues regarding it
CLD testing thread was already in my bookmarks, but thanks for the advice! Just noticed that CLD testing was your work! |
04-16-2016, 04:53 PM | #5 |
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OK, I was reading all info about sound insulation, checking tests, local retailers and etc. My head is already spinning.
I will be brave enough to give my ideas.
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04-17-2016, 01:18 AM | #6 |
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Hey, I'm headed to be, if I don't get back to you tomorrow I will monday. Super hectic week coming up. Tomorrow alone I have to paint the kitchen, bathroom, and pour concrete lol. Looking forward to sleeping through all next weekend.
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The Following User Says Thank You to TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL For This Useful Post: | P3tras (04-17-2016) |
06-08-2016, 07:12 AM | #7 |
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OK, finally got the build started. I "HOPE" to finish within 2 weeks
Started yesterday. Teared all interior plastics (as much as I think will be needed) and removed stock speakers (also removed rear deck, which is not photographed). Stock woofer versus focal one. Diameter is the same, although focal speaker is deeper and has a bigger magnet: Mid is once again exact same outer diameter (speaker itself is bit smaller), but this one not as deep due to flat magnet. Biggest differences are with tweeters. Focal ones are larger diameter and shallower (inverted dome really looks cool). However, it seems it won't be a big challenge to mount them into stock speaker location. At first I wanted to mount main amplifier somewhere in front, so all speaker wires would be much shorter. But I was not able to find a suitable place, thus I will probably mount it in stock amplifier location: Next issue are crossovers. They are quite bulky (3-way system), but I want to mount them somewhere in front so I wouldn't need to run 3 pairs of wires through whole car. It seems they would fit on rear deck, but that's too far back for my liking. Here are the best spots that I found, although not perfect. Passenger side crossover. Just behind side of the dash. Driver side is more complicated. I already have some extra electronics mounted here. But best that I could think of is mounting crossover like this (just on opposite side of the metal): Today I will start installing sound deadening. In my arsenal I have:
I also designed mounting adapters for woofers and mids. I hoped friend to 3D print them, but it seems it would take 14h just to print one woofer adapter. Probably will have to think of something else. But might print adapter for mids. I also think about keeping stock rear speakers (or something better) running from head-unit to fill the rear (I also have passengers in the back sometimes). Deep inside I know it is a bad idea, please talk me out if it. That's all for now. If I am doing anything "very" wrong, please correct me. It's my first proper audio build. |
06-08-2016, 02:11 PM | #8 |
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I'm actually in the process of testing sound absorbers behind speakers. So far it seems to be a tradeoff, at least in my particular test. I'll try to link it up later, but in short, it reduced ringing and second order distortion peaks in the response, but added a single and relatively larger 3rd order distortion peak.
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The Following User Says Thank You to TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL For This Useful Post: | P3tras (06-08-2016) |
06-08-2016, 03:24 PM | #9 |
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Check out the hole behind the rear speakers. You pick up a lot of road noise back there. If you look in the cavity where the rear speakers are mounted, notice down at the very bottom below the floor and back near the rear tire wheel well... The very bottom of this cavity has a hole that extends outside the car. You will probably notice dirt down there. This is road grime being thrown into your car from the tires. If you can seal off this hole you will eliminate a lot of direct road noise and keep your interior cleaner.
For me, the easiest way to make speaker mounting adapters was to simply buy a 2x6 plank of PVC board from Lowe's and cut them out with a jigsaw. I pressed the factory speakers face down onto the board and traced it with a sharpie to make a template. Then I cut this out with a jigsaw, making a proper speaker adapter. It's cheap and easy. Use speaker baffles. They will waterproof your build and improve the sound. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VRU4gTm...r-Baffles.html These speakers are probably infinite baffle but you still need to seal them to the door to prevent wave cancellation from the back end of the speaker. I used the foam baffle to seal the back end of the PVC mounting adapter to the door and then used foam rings to seal the speaker to the front end of the PVC adapter. So the adapter is sandwiched in foam on the front and rear... Then to make the speaker infinite baffle, I poked a small hole in the bottom of the baffle to let the speaker breath. Without poking the hole I ended up making a small enclosure out of the foam baffle and it raised the resonant frequency of the speaker. Poking the hole lowered it back down to where it should be. Just play around with it. Depending on the acoustics of the car and the speakers, you may or may not need to put a hole in the baffle. If you have low mid resonance modes, you might want to leave the baffle sealed to raise the frequency response of the drivers to avoid exciting these modes. Just be sure to poke the hole (if you need one) at the bottom of the baffle so that water doesn't get inside. Look at upgrading the speaker wiring. In my WRX they used 24AWG wire which IMO is way too small for any decently powered system. I ran all new wires (14AWG) and left the factory wiring unused. Running a high powered system you may pick up EMI and RF noise that the factory system didn't have. They make noise isolating power supplies to clean up the power: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/PAC-CSS12-Passive-Filter-Capacitor/dp/B000CEDZBA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui _search_detailpage"]Amazon.com: PAC CSS12 Passive Noise Filter, 12 Amp, Choke And Capacitor Design: Car Electronics[/ame] Don't use Y connectors for your RCA cables. They give an improper OHM load on your preamp. Build your own if you need to combine signals to a sub: http://www.rane.com/note109.html |
The Following User Says Thank You to sly For This Useful Post: | P3tras (06-08-2016) |
06-08-2016, 03:40 PM | #10 |
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If you want to build your own fiberglass subwoofer box, here is the article I used:http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ox+Walkthrough
Buy a chemical respirator if you want to do this. The fumes are strong as hell... |
The Following User Says Thank You to sly For This Useful Post: | asnatlas (06-08-2016) |
06-08-2016, 04:08 PM | #11 |
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Thanks for all the tips.
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06-08-2016, 08:31 PM | #12 |
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Quote:
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06-09-2016, 06:24 PM | #13 |
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Moving forward:
Installed vibro damping. It was not a challenge to find where to install 12 sheets.
Until the next time |
The Following User Says Thank You to P3tras For This Useful Post: | Chimera (06-10-2016) |
06-11-2016, 06:42 AM | #14 |
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Didn't do much yesterday, because it was raining almost whole day. But still have some updates.
Best thing, is that I found suitable speakers adapters for sale locally. As we know, electronics in this car are basically from Toyota, thus I suspected speakers are as well. Of course, no local shops have adapters for BRZ/FRS/GT-86, but I looked around catalogs and ones from Toyota Auris/Avensis/Corolla/RAV4 seemed very similar. Went to the shop and indeed, they are direct fit on the twins! It may help if you need ones for your twin as well, look for Toyota adapters locally. Here are compatible models on the listing: Toyota Auris (2007.03-2012) Toyota Avensis (2003.02-2009) Toyota Corolla (E12) (2002.01-2007.02) Toyota Corolla Verso (2001.11-2009.03) Toyota RAV4 (2000.08-2006.02) Daihatsu Materia (2004>) If they had little roof to cover back of the speaker from water drops, then they would be perfect. But I am still very happy that I won't need to cut it myself. My friend also printed adapters for mids: I also routed speaker wires to driver's door. Not an easy job, but got it done. No photos this time. Hopefully, on Monday I will get 3D printed adapters for mids and I will be able to install all speakers. I also decided to keep rear speakers, but not the stock crappy ones. Have several choices (all 3.5" coaxial speakers).
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The Following User Says Thank You to P3tras For This Useful Post: | sly (06-11-2016) |
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