Adding Bass to stock system?

[Agent 86]

Originally Posted by sly

Looking over the specs, it's an 8" speaker in a 0.46 ft^3 ported enclosure with a 250W class D amp. That should work very well in this car. You can adjust the crossover and the levels to get it to match your existing speakers.


I'm eventually going to build a system using these exact same speakers but in smaller sealed enclosure. IMO, this is a very good match.

I appreciate your comments. I like accurate bass, and figured an 8" would probably be a good match. It would be nice to have DSP, but i did not want to invest the $$ and time in an overly complicated system. I really want the OEM Audio system, but...

The PnP aspect and positive testimonials of the OEM Audio + system is compelling. However, at a price point of $1,500 I have to audition first. I purchased my Home Theater speakers on line for big bank. The difference? Ascend Acoustics provides a 30 day audition. You just pay return shipping if you find the sound unsatisfactory.

The May 1 Boxerfest is one of the largest Subaru events on the East Coast, but it looks like OEM Audio won't be there again this year. They should have a demo vehicle on hand.

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by YamahaR86

By entry level subs, I mean towards the $100 range and NOT a kicker, pyle or boss. .

I wouldn't add Kicker on that list. Remember they do make Solo-Baric.

Ah I see. Dam 500w. That's a lot.

Originally Posted by Agent 86

I appreciate your comments. I like accurate bass, and figured an 8" would probably be a good match. It would be nice to have DSP, but i did not want to invest the $$ and time in an overly complicated system. I really want the OEM Audio system, but...

The PnP aspect and positive testimonials of the OEM Audio + system is compelling. However, at a price point of $1,500 I have to audition first. I purchased my Home Theater speakers on line for big bank. The difference? Ascend Acoustics provides a 30 day audition. You just pay return shipping if you find the sound unsatisfactory.

The May 1 Boxerfest is one of the largest Subaru events on the East Coast, but it looks like OEM Audio won't be there again this year. They should have a demo vehicle on hand.

That JL would sound nice. Anything would sound nice if adjustable.

That oem+ would sound great but that price. For the same time it takes to install that is pretty the same time it would take to install a typical amp/sub.

[softgrip]

OEM+ sounds as good as my home theatre system (klipsch thx ultra 2). That's saying something. My home theatre is worth about half the cost of my car!

I think OEM+ is great value!

[TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL]

Accurate bass can't be had for under $200 for the sub/box/amp combined, unless you don't listen loud at all. It takes $150 just to get a decently low distortion subwoofer than can reach moderate volume, without the box and amp.

[Mr.ac]

Well we are not talking about audiophile quality here folks.
The point of the thread is the best bang for the buck. The mass average person would be more than happy for an all in one under $200 set up.

I'll still chose my own set up over OEM+ for that price range.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

How about a Bazooka basstube? I'm using the simple, 8" 50w powered one, and it's pretty sufficient at adding to the lower frequencies. Enough to rattle the rear mirror to the point you can hear it rattling. lol

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

How about a Bazooka basstube? I'm using the simple, 8" 50w powered one, and it's pretty sufficient at adding to the lower frequencies. Enough to rattle the rear mirror to the point you can hear it rattling. lol

Those are great. They where the first in the game with small enclosure back in the 90s. They where pricey back in the day. Don't know how much the go for now.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

Those are great. They where the first in the game with small enclosure back in the 90s. They where pricey back in the day. Don't know how much the go for now.

The one I got, the BTA850FH, ranges from 100 to 150 bucks. I essentially got it for free since I had some company points. haha.

Not for the basshead, but for someone who will occasionally remove it for trunk space, and for something that is PnP, it's a great choice. Now, I still have to have my bass two spots from maxed out, and the gain on the tube itself set to about 60%, but it's sufficient bass for my needs. I've had a 10" Type R in a vented box in my previous car, and I don't think the FR-S requires all that.

[Mr.ac]

Exactly. A 100w system will fill up the cabin with much needed low end bass. No one is going to hear you coming from blocks away but at highway speeds it would get you in the groove to your favorite jam.

[sly]

It's surprising what 100 watts can do. 200 watts is only 3dB louder. Traditionally this is known as the minimum volume (SPL) increase that is discernable. It would take 400 watts before you get another 3dB.

However there is one thing more important than volume (SPL) that power can provide. Accuracy... As a speaker is pushed forward, there must be power to pull it back again. If the amp is low on power, the inertia of the speaker will carry the cone forward and the amp is unable to pull it back in time to create a coherent wave. This introduces intermodular distortion. The wave created by the speaker moving forward interacts with the wave of the amp trying to pull the speaker back. This creates inaccuracies in the frequency response and distorts the sound.

tl;dr
Buy a powerful amp to give accurate sound. It's not about volume. It's about accuracy of sound reproduction. You should match the amp to the speaker's maximum power handling if you want accurate sound. If you underpower, your sound will be distorted.

[TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL]

Intermodulation distortion is caused when a speaker is playing two different frequencies at one time. It is not caused by running an amplifier without enough power. As long as you don't run the amp into clipping, underpowering a speaker can not cause distortion.

Another way to think about this. If underpowering a speaker without clipping the amp caused distortion, then your speakers would distort more and more as you turned down the volume.

[Chimera]

Just throwing in 2c, I have a jl 10 wxv2, @175w. It's not loud per say, but it's plenty accurate, and pretty low as cost goes

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

The one I got, the BTA850FH, ranges from 100 to 150 bucks. I essentially got it for free since I had some company points. haha.

Not for the basshead, but for someone who will occasionally remove it for trunk space, and for something that is PnP, it's a great choice. Now, I still have to have my bass two spots from maxed out, and the gain on the tube itself set to about 60%, but it's sufficient bass for my needs. I've had a 10" Type R in a vented box in my previous car, and I don't think the FR-S requires all that.

I may have to check your set-up out one day. I have been listening to more bass heavy music lately and it's really lacking.

[YamahaR86]

Originally Posted by finch1750

I may have to check your set-up out one day. I have been listening to more bass heavy music lately and it's really lacking.

Same here.

If I switch the settings on the HU, the doors will have too much and it'll cause rattle (I've tried for 2 days now to reduce it following guides and videos).

Figure if I get a sub I can leave it on mids and highs and let the sub do all the work so no door rattles.