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Old 03-06-2016, 01:53 AM   #15
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If you lowered the pedal from stock you will need to raise it again. Any aftermarket clutch will have a different engagement point.
Right, but does that play into why the entire system never fully disengages when the pedal is fully depressed? Or will readjusting the clutch pedal fix both the issues?
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:00 AM   #16
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Right, but does that play into why the entire system never fully disengages when the pedal is fully depressed? Or will readjusting the clutch pedal fix both the issues?
One and the same issue.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:02 AM   #17
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What Spartarus said. All clutches are different, even the same models from one unit to the next. The pedal throw directly affects the travel of the slave plunger.
But will readjusting the pedal throw impact both the resting slave shaft position and fully extended?

I only ask because it seems like a two-fold issue.

On one hand, the clutch is engaged somewhat while the pedal is pressed down, and on the other hand, I would think adjusting the actuator under the pedals would only favor either full slave shaft extension or resting shaft.

Is my thinking correct?

Edit: you replied while I replied.

If that's all it takes then I'm unbelievably relieved, but still somewhat confused.

If I adjust the slave to extend further thus releasing the clutch disk, doesn't that negatively affect the resting slave shaft extension to a point where the TOB will be pressed against the pressure plate?
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:11 AM   #18
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But will readjusting the pedal throw impact both the resting slave shaft position and fully extended?

I only ask because it seems like a two-fold issue.

On one hand, the clutch is engaged somewhat while the pedal is pressed down, and on the other hand, I would think adjusting the actuator under the pedals would only favor either full slave shaft extension or resting shaft.

Is my thinking correct?

Edit: you replied while I replied.

If that's all it takes then I'm unbelievably relieved, but still somewhat confused.

If I adjust the slave to extend further thus releasing the clutch disk, doesn't that negatively affect the resting slave shaft extension to a point where the TOB will be pressed against the pressure plate?
Oh, maybe you're not aware of how the self adjustment works. There is a spring in the slave which extends the plunger until the TOB comes into contact with the PP fingers. Pull the fork forward to compress the plunger with your fingers to prove it to yourself. You're pushing the fluid back up into the reservoir.

Now, when you start to push the clutch pedal, the first thing to happen is that check valve closes. Then the rest of the travel goes to pushing out the slave plunger.

That's why the master plunger must always fully extend. If it doesn't, that check valve never opens and you would effectively always be riding the clutch.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:25 AM   #19
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Moving the clutch pedal does not affect the resting slave position, but it changes the maximum travel of the master cylinder, and therefore the slave cylinder.

The clutch always starts from "0." moving the pedal affects the travel, and therefore only the maximum extension of the rod, not the starting point.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:30 AM   #20
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Oh, maybe you're not aware of how the self adjustment works. There is a spring in the slave which extends the plunger until the TOB comes into contact with the PP fingers. Pull the fork forward to compress the plunger with your fingers to prove it to yourself. You're pushing the fluid back up into the reservoir.

Now, when you start to push the clutch pedal, the first thing to happen is that check valve closes. Then the rest of the travel goes to pushing out the slave plunger.

That's why the master plunger must always fully extend. If it doesn't, that check valve never opens and you would effectively always be riding the clutch.
So if the slave is not fully extended, adjusting the pedal actuator will adjust the length of the extension?

The self adjustment makes sense. To be honest, I was curious what brought the fork back to the fingers other than depressing the clutch, so that explanation helped a bit.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:36 AM   #21
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Moving the clutch pedal does not affect the resting slave position, but it changes the maximum travel of the master cylinder, and therefore the slave cylinder.

The clutch always starts from "0." moving the pedal affects the travel, and therefore only the maximum extension of the rod, not the starting point.
Well that just makes a bunch more sense than what I imagined. Forgive my noobish-ness. Despite knowing the systems somewhat well, this was the first time I attempted a clutch replacement. I'm no mechanic either, so small things will escape me unless I figure them out directly or otherwise break them and need to fix them in some way.

I'll adjust the pedal actuator tomorrow and give you guys feedback.

I'm desperately hoping that's all I have to do.

I also really hope I didn't glaze the FW or PP. Still organic disk, so maybe not. Also very low speeds. <15mph.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:41 AM   #22
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Well that just makes a bunch more sense than what I imagined. Forgive my noobish-ness. Despite knowing the systems somewhat well, this was the first time I attempted a clutch replacement. I'm no mechanic either, so small things will escape me unless I figure them out directly or otherwise break them and need to fix them in some way.

I'll adjust the pedal actuator tomorrow and give you guys feedback.

I'm desperately hoping that's all I have to do.

I also really hope I didn't glaze the FW or PP. Still organic disk, so maybe not. Also very low speeds. <15mph.
Yes, that's all it is and don't worry. It's fine.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:45 AM   #23
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WOW! ........good job @Spartarus and @Ultramaroon in helping @Rybot with his clutch situation ..........


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Old 03-06-2016, 02:52 AM   #24
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WOW! ........good job @Spartarus and @Ultramaroon in helping @Rybot with his clutch situation ..........


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Thanks, humfrz!
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:28 PM   #25
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Welp. Issue solved. Adjusted the clutch pedal position outward and now the car works as intended, though the catch position is pretty high for my likes.

Once it's worn in, will the catch position change much, or will I have to go back and adjust it more?
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:51 PM   #26
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Welp. Issue solved. Adjusted the clutch pedal position outward and now the car works as intended, though the catch position is pretty high for my likes.

Once it's worn in, will the catch position change much, or will I have to go back and adjust it more?
When you say "catch" do you mean when it first starts to make contact? If so, that's the only thing you can actually control with the pedal adjustment. If it's too high for your liking, lower the pedal down a bit.

It will come up a smidge on its own as the mating surfaces lap to each other. Not much, though.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:58 PM   #27
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When you say "catch" do you mean when it first starts to make contact? If so, that's the only thing you can actually control with the pedal adjustment. If it's too high for your liking, lower the pedal down a bit.

It will come up a smidge on its own as the mating surfaces lap to each other. Not much, though.
Yes to the catch. I had basically over adjusted just because I wanted to see if that was the problem. I'll lower the pedal a bit more, but I was just afraid that might put me back into the not working properly territory.

That being said I really appreciate the help. That was the first time I've done something that mechanically drastic and feared I'd have to dismantle it again.
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:08 PM   #28
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Yes to the catch. I had basically over adjusted just because I wanted to see if that was the problem. I'll lower the pedal a bit more, but I was just afraid that might put me back into the not working properly territory.

That being said I really appreciate the help. That was the first time I've done something that mechanically drastic and feared I'd have to dismantle it again.
We all fear the do-over but lemme tell ya, I've done far worse.
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