Blown engine. Built time?

[BRZnut]

Originally Posted by Theratt1

Ohh this is hilarious. I busted the case halves apart tonight out of boredom. 3 bearings are spun. 2 rod bearings and a main journal bearing. Crank is unusable. Of course. Case is cracked internally to an coolant passage. Odd but that would explain the little bit of coolant in the oil when I ripped it out. I think it may need a set of heads to. Haven't ripped out the cams yet but from the initial view it's absolutely nasty.

So you're saying all this damage because he went 2,500 miles longer than usual on his oil change? If that is the case, it shows how poorly these engines were designed. Or there is alot more to this story!

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by raven1231

Maperformance is a great company and Ian is awesome. If I was looking for a block it would be purchased from them.

Ian is the man. Helped with parts on my build.

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by Theratt1

Crank is unusable. Of course.

You clearly haven't read about the guy who reconditioned the Aston Martin crank that couldn't even be turned with a breaker bar.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/a...e-rebuild.html

Haha just kidding, but in all seriousness, please post pictures.

Document the teardown please!

Something seems off here, maybe it's nothing... But why is it always somebody's buddy? Where are all the dumb owners on this board? Something else seems awry as well, not batting an eye about an auto-manual swap in this car (a relatively tall order) but buying a shortblock off-the-shelf? Not sure what the auto trans can handle but we'll just throw 3 grand at it and see what happens? Why do we need a racepak for an LS engine?? Why are we looking for an off-the-shelf adapter for a T56 swap? No mention of a V160, but running a 20k budget? Something doesn't make sense.

Maybe I'm just being strange, and you are a knowledgeable guy who just hasn't done all the research yet. If that's the case, you may want to look into a V160 swap for a manual option. Fullblown makes the required components, and that trans can be had brand new for just under 8k (less than you will spend building a Greddy AZ6) you can finish the swap for around 10k, and it'll handle over 1000 whp.

Call SSP, they are the only guys who know sh*t about the auto in this car, they'll tell you if it can handle 400 wheel. Many guys have had strange shifting issues with the auto+FI, but that's a valvebody problem. I can explain if need be, but they can do better. I also have no idea where the clutch packs give up (torque wise) once you do fix the shift problem.

It's not a Subaru transmission, Subaru doesn't make RWD-anything. It's an Aisin A960E, formerly a Lexus transmission. It came from the Toyota side of this franken-car.

[Theratt1]

I literally do not own an FRS. I've had this one apart several times in the past for brakes, bumper replacement because deer. Fenders. The list goes on. I don't have a good camera. Right now I'm just tearing stuff apart because. Also in reply to BRZnut. I'm pretty sure this was a normal sludge problem. But what baffles me is royal purple hp series and mobil 1 filters. But of course I personally use royal purple and have seen it sludge. But I abuse the crap out of my engine. I'm not exactly sure how he drives so I don't know. I do know it gets 90% highway miles though. So It's kind of odd it did this. But I'm guessing there was an oil break down from being pushed to hard and it happened repeatedly. That's my diagnosis. But it could also have to do with that crack in the case. It's a tiny crack though. Which is kind of strange. I don't know if it's a defect in the casting or what the hell. At this point all I know is it needs a shortblock for sure and possibly heads. It may not need heads but It's a possibility. Ohh heres a good one for you. Pulled the head off a 2000 grand am yesterday. Blown headgasket. It has a literal 1/2 inch chunk of the head missing where the fire ring is supposed to seal.

[Theratt1]

Originally Posted by Spartarus

You clearly haven't read about the guy who reconditioned the Aston Martin crank that couldn't even be turned with a breaker bar.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/a...e-rebuild.html

Haha just kidding, but in all seriousness, please post pictures.

Document the teardown please!

Something seems off here, maybe it's nothing... But why is it always somebody's buddy? Where are all the dumb owners on this board? Something else seems awry as well, not batting an eye about an auto-manual swap in this car (a relatively tall order) but buying a shortblock off-the-shelf? Not sure what the auto trans can handle but we'll just throw 3 grand at it and see what happens? Why do we need a racepak for an LS engine?? Why are we looking for an off-the-shelf adapter for a T56 swap? No mention of a V160, but running a 20k budget? Something doesn't make sense.

Maybe I'm just being strange, and you are a knowledgeable guy who just hasn't done all the research yet. If that's the case, you may want to look into a V160 swap for a manual option. Fullblown makes the required components, and that trans can be had brand new for just under 8k (less than you will spend building a Greddy AZ6) you can finish the swap for around 10k, and it'll handle over 1000 whp.

Call SSP, they are the only guys who know sh*t about the auto in this car, they'll tell you if it can handle 400 wheel. Many guys have had strange shifting issues with the auto+FI, but that's a valvebody problem. I can explain if need be, but they can do better. I also have no idea where the clutch packs give up (torque wise) once you do fix the shift problem.

It's not a Subaru transmission, Subaru doesn't make RWD-anything. It's an Aisin A960E, formerly a Lexus transmission. It came from the Toyota side of this franken-car.

I would do the v160 swap but I'm trying to do this with as little headache as possible. I contacted ssp and waiting on a reply. I don't have a welder and getting my welding fab guy is expensive and he never gets anything done. The shortblock is just easier. The ls racepack is because I'd be stuffing in a t56 with a 5.3l or 4.8l and a 0411 pcm out of a 99-04 truck. I've got the experience and stuff to tune an 0411 gm pcm or most gm pcms for ls. I'd really rather have something I can drop in and go. I'm not really gonna make any money on it so I don't wanna spend 60+ hours building an engine and everything. I've been looking at what I can make it do and what I can make it ignore. And I can make it ignore a lot if I want. The ls I really don't want to spend an extra 1500 or more on motec or something that will integrate into the stock gauge pack if I don't have to. That's one reason I'm not really considering the ls swap. I may end up scrapping both these ideas and going 1j or 2j swap. I know someone with a 2jz gte and v160 sitting in his garage. He wants 8k for it but I'm not sure how many miles are on it or how good the transmission is. I want as little electrical work as possible. I know I can make a lot of stuff work but I'm not the biggest fan of pulling harnesses and dashes.

So tl:dr. I'm not familiar with this platform yet. I'm working on figuring it out.

[Theratt1]

Due to a nasty hail storm the other night the car was damaged severely. The owner contacted the insurance agency and someone came and looked at it. He totaled the car right then and there. So I threw everything together mishmashed and a flatbed took it away. The body was damaged so much it would cost more than 50% of the cars worth to fix it so they just totaled it and he's getting a truck now. I didn't take photos like I should have but smashed windshield and rear window. Both mirrors gone. side window passenger side gone. Interior was waterlogged. both taillights were destroyed. Hundreds of dents from golf ball sized hail. Total loss. Insurance is paying 15k. So one to new projects.